Stripping Paint?! (Picture Added)

[Monsterbass]

What's the easiest,quickest way to strip paint from the outside of the hull? I also would like to upload pictures of my boat to get my mod started is there a link to how to steps mine say they are all over 800. But first things first I want to get outside done sanded and Repainted first. Thanks in advance guys.

 

[smackdaddy53]

Wire cup on a grinder

 

[crabsandbottlecaps]

A lot of people are down with using a wire brush and a drill but I don't no something about aluminum and rivets and a drill with wire spinning has me worrying I like to spray paint stripper and wash off or sand off with a palm sander then clean up with acetone

 

[smackdaddy53]

Your paint will stick to this best!

 

[bigwave]

Acetone will be your best friend.

 

[Monsterbass]

Scratch what I said originally. I need to know what to do to prep for paint. This isn't a smooth boat hull like most jons either, it's like a rough feeling texture. Should I sand then use acetone?! What works best grinder with 3m wire brush? Or by hand? What grade grit? Thanks guys! Any info on pictures?

 

[lckstckn2smknbrls]

Monsterbass » Mon Jan 20, 2014 9:35 pm[/url]"]Scratch what I said originally. I need to know what to do to prep for paint. This isn't a smooth boat hull like most jons either, it's like a rough feeling texture. Should I sand then use acetone?! What works best grinder with 3m wire brush? Or by hand? What grade grit? Thanks guys! Any info on pictures?

With the textured surface I'm going to suggest a chemical stripper.

 

[Monsterbass]

I guess what I am wanting to know is should you sand a rough surface? Or just spray on chemicals and wipe off? Should it look shiny like some Jon's do on here or just look cleaner?

 

[bigwave]

I would use a chemical stripper. It might take a couple of tries, but if you follow the directions and use the acetone after each use the stripper will take most of the paint off. You can then use a sander or wire cup brush to knock down any residual, good acetone wiping, prime with zinc chromite, then paint what ever color you want. Search this forum for painting techniques. It all comes down to money with the type of finish you desire. I rattle caned mine and it turned out OK.......Next time I will spray with my compressor.

 

[Scott1298]

I used Smart Strip "Earth Friendly" paint remover from Home depot to get most of the paint off. You'll have to apply it twice in some areas.

 

[tnguy]

Looks like it works better than what I have used.

 

[WVfishnfool]

Scott1298 » Yesterday, 23:48[/url]"]I used Smart Strip "Earth Friendly" paint remover from Home depot to get most of the paint off. You'll have to apply it twice in some areas.

Scott did you scrape or pressure wash the old paint off after using the stripper. I have a 14' john I'm going to start on after the weather gets better here and need to take off about 4-6 layers of paint that's on this thing. I've thought about using something stronger like a diluted acid wash made for cleaning aluminum trailers and tankers but don't want to fool with respirators and crap if I don't have to. I plan on using a wire brush grinder after I get the initial layers of crap off this thing.

 

[Scott1298]

I scraped some of the easy stuff, but mostly just pressure washed it, you can see the little guy on the right side of this picture. Watch you don't overheat your pressure washer as you do have to do it methodically at close range to peel the paint off. As I recall 80% came off the first time, and then I covered the stubborn areas a second time to get this. I bought a gallon of the stripper, and had a third of the pail left over. I think this will save you a lot of labor compared to grinding, brushing, or sanding the whole thing.
After this I just ran my orbital sander over it, rinsed, wiped down with an automotive aluminum cleaner, rinsed, then rolled and tipped the body & spray bombed the railing with Tremclad paint that didn't need special Aluminum prep... I now use the spray bomb to cover up any damage I do, but it held up quite well over the summer. There's more pictures in the link below.

 

[WVfishnfool]

Scott1298 » Yesterday, 22:20[/url]"]I scraped some of the easy stuff, but mostly just pressure washed it, you can see the little guy on the right side of this picture. Watch you don't overheat your pressure washer as you do have to do it methodically at close range to peel the paint off. As I recall 80% came off the first time, and then I covered the stubborn areas a second time to get this. I bought a gallon of the stripper, and had a third of the pail left over. I think this will save you a lot of labor compared to grinding, brushing, or sanding the whole thing.
After this I just ran my orbital sander over it, rinsed, wiped down with an automotive aluminum cleaner, rinsed, then rolled and tipped the body & spray bombed the railing with Tremclad paint that didn't need special Aluminum prep... I now use the spray bomb to cover up any damage I do, but it held up quite well over the summer. There's more pictures in the link below.

Appreciate the info. I'm not going to do a lot to this boat as it will be used mainly for float fishin some small rivers and lakes and do some back country bow hunts and rifle hunts out of. My main thing is I want to get it stripped down so the camo paint job I want to do will have a clean surface to bond to and won't be chipping or flaking off because of a bunch of layers of bad paint. I have a pressure washer with a 6hp Honda gas engine that will do 3000 psi so it should bring it off I'll just have to be careful and not cut holes in the aluminum. :lol: I cut a small groove in some concrete with it one day just to show my son and son-in-law to pay attention to what they were doing if they used it. It has different tips for different pressures.

 

[jonboatboy]

Man I do body work for a living and I paint my 1232 up like a hot rod. Its black on the bottom and a siler off a ford taurus on top and I put a red pinstrip to break the two colors up. This is what you need to do and I promise it will last a lifetime if you dont beat it up against rocks and logs like I did mine. It still lookes great but it does have some scratches. You didnt have to strip it. Factory coating are always beast but since you did then I would sand it with 320 by hand in the cracks and with a d/a (dual action sander) on the flat spots until its smooth. Go to your local body shop supplier and get a quart of epoxy primer and spray it down first. Epoxy has no build so theres no need to sand. We use it to best color match cars before we spray em and cover bare metal spot also before their painted. After spraying the epoxy wait 30mins assumeing your doing this in a warm garage or a warm day for that matter and you can lay down your paint right over top of it. I epoxyed mine then I sprayed the black. 30 mins later after it dried I taped it off and sprayed the silver. I waited another 30 mins then I sprayed the urethane clear coat over top of the whole boat and pin striped it after it sit for a day. I laid down 1 coat epoxy because that stuff lays down slick and covers great and I used 2 medium coats of the black silver and clear. Ill try to post some pics tomorrow if I can But the great thing about useing automotive clear is when I wash the green stuff and water stains off the boat it comes off very easy and looks just like it did the day I painted it, just with scratches now. Im looking at getting a new 1448 and Ima do it all black with reflective red lettering and a couple wild decals so it looks like a bass boat. Ive gotten alot of complements on the ole johnny boat. Ill keep an eye on this post if you need anything else.

 

[jonboatboy]

Also you can get whats called a self etching primer from the automotive paint supplier. We buy it in a rattle can for small bare metal spots right before I spray a car. Its a acid based primer and it actually etches into the metal its sprayed on. It also has no build or filling capabilities so theres no need to sand after its sprayed. Price check the epoxy (glue based primer best way I can explain it so people understand) and price check the self etching primer. I would say the epoxy will be cheaper because the self etching dont cover like the epoxy and will more then likely need 2 coats instead of one and maken you use more of it. Both of these primers you can let sit for a hour for sure on a decent warm day say 60 to 70 degrees and paint over top of them wether you choose to rattle can or use automotive. Ole jon dont look bad. Ive seen alot worse. The one Im lookin at is a scratch and dent so Ima have to do some body work on it but I got a post about that deal on here if you guys dont care take a look and help a good fella out.

 

[WVfishnfool]

Appreciate the info on the epoxy primer. I've used self-etching primer in the past. I've owned quite a few boats in my life everything from Coleman canoes, flat bottom & semi-v aluminums, and 3 different fiberglass bass boats at one time or another. The 14' Mon Ark I have is a 1965 model and has about 6 different colors on it. I think every body that owned it before I got it just sprayed over the previous mess left by someone else. The paint is flaking off in places and some places you can take your thumb nail and scrape off paint. I want to get a decent camo job on this boat so I can hunt out of it and not pollute the waters with almost 50 years worth of crap paint jobs flaking off. :lol: :lol:

 

[jonboatboy]

Yeah that mess def needed stripping. I guess it was someone elses pic I looked at that has the olive dab looking paint on it. I almost bought a monark a few weeks ago but the guy didnt know anything about the boat. I found it through word of mouth and called the guy. Asked him if it was welded or rivited boat. He said welded and when I got there it was a rivited boat LOL. Seen the big holes in the side that allow fresh water to go into and out of the livewell and had a blonde moment and asked what they were for. He said they were drains for the cup holders. Dude wouldnt take me to test drive the boat and just refused to. He dry fired the 25hp. Johnson for a few sec and it sounded good runnin but I looked at the lower unit and it had that old flex seal or whatever that stuff is that comes on t.v. They put a screen door in a boat and spray it with that stuff. It was on the lower unit in front of the prop. I agree with old dude that it may have just been a gasket because the lower unit looked like it was two separate pieces down there but he sprayed that stuff on it to keep oil from comming out. I was just afraid his kids took it out and hit something and put a hair crack in it( he said his kids take it out alot more then him). I really wish that deal wouldve worked out but I cant buy a boat and not test drive it unless it a new one.

 

[Clear Solution]

I ran a chemical stripper on mine, one app did the job on most spots- some places took 2-3x. I put it one, let it cooks for 30mins and hit it with the pressure washer. Not a lot of pressure, but enough to blew the softened paint off. This got the hull to appx 70% clean.

Then I hit every inch with 220grt sanding pads on the DA sander. This took it to appx 95% clean

The rivet heads and welded seams got wire brushed. I alternated between a 6" fine wheel on the angle grinder, a coarse cup on the AG, and a full fine cup in the drill. Stubborn spots got a small shot of heat from the torch to soften the paint, and then some wheel. This took me to 98% or better.

All said and done, I've got about 15hrs in stripping a 17' flat bottom.

 

[jonboatboy]

Like ole buddy said there. Throw the chemical stripper to it. More heat the better. Dont use a torch but maybe a blow heater a few feet away. The sun on a hot sunny day will cook it clean. Use a fine hand wire brush and then sand with 320. 220 is too ruff especially on aluminum. Then just epoxy or self etch it and lay down your camo.