Timing for early Johnnyrudes

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Shaugh

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I just finished rebuilding this 1955 QD-16 10 hp. This is the first pre-56 I've done. I was disappointed to not find timing marks on the mag plate or flywheel. I've grown dependent on that procedure to get the best running motor possible. Here is an example of what I mean:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ga1Cjymj6ms

I set the points manually and I have decent spark, but I wish I could "time" the motor... is there a way ?

HNLD1086.JPG
 
ok... I understand that for the flywheel to get the 2 marks....same degrees as a later model... how to get the mark on the mag plate ? just duplicate a later model mag plate in degrees ? I suppose I could lay it out on paper and get a template that was pretty accurate.....
 
Pappy,
Tell me if i'm thinking correctly. I could make a paper template like this by comparing flywheels and mag plates that do have the marks.

timing template.jpg

Then use it to mark flywheels and mag plates that don't have the marks.... will it work ? Are all these engines timed the same ?
 
easy enough..... I'll make one and post an image that others could use.... problem is I only have a couple examples of marked flywheels and mag plates laying around... wondering if a 59 35hp really does use the same angles....
 
Got it out for it's maiden voyage yesterday. Ran like a top...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iNwguy-H2T8&feature=youtu.be

Right up to the time the brand new, but hopelessly cheap chinese fuel pump died.... stranding me again.... leaving me with a long ride back to the ramp on the trolling motor... is there a better fuel pump I could use than these pieces of junk sold on Ebay.... this is not the first time yet I keep going back because I can't find anything else....

https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Fuel-Pump-for-Johnson-Evinrude-outboard-6HP-8HP-9-9HP-15HP-1992-Older-397839/222637108716?epid=2229319356&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item33d634adec:g:i9oAAOSwlEdZsL38&enc=AQAEAAACcIQvEcHUrT7nmUC3yY5qbPyaBN1nJEDYW8MyypsJPgXKetBSCbpa6EVEcxe8fAvGBHNaX0mKFXHxwUJS0EpxaRLT1e%2B00xr%2BU63d6W0GZZ54Vv07CoPAuS%2FrcKQMdAxdHctL%2F32jr5skbtB0%2BPFN0akQiwGjK39AxTzU8Ll7LRXpox12iIAxDiROmhfSaGEnOVOILq9Zgr2TR3BPD6bg%2Bd3fqKYUGiSBSCipP%2BntDiccH8AbsHU2%2Fgk3JlvcHud97P7EsFWJ9QJ0iUN9OBbQpBdHuIele4nX45VjHURlicpt5ZMvB1g8jEefhLoc3ebMadlBerx9Y5bPreZWMSBv7EQmmCyMbTGxbaby8NM7SNRzcwLxnWdP8eDVhah1YvmGfEg8TjkgmLsduyIi41%2F%2B08PgxjXEBqCjEeXBYHggnar3IcIIH1csakiVqN0ZY%2FH9vXWzzT6Iv0ksbRd%2BmOB0QUakyAS4w7mrDMefsCfrGwzmNhMbLaQHUMy7oZ2D2%2FDRW0UU%2FC62s7Cg7VwbCiT4Gsi81tvk7IQ2UHfWLJl74kSyZ%2Fz09oKPhYxXDT73zA1s6v4AITsf1dVTtcrQSdKImQ5P2K9QJBENlNllpe9GEzFb4p0Gj8oXJz%2BoZJxCkR4egdUdE1flveu2khUmqpD86KlzpVxiMeAVYiCIEWhgKQa%2B8X8nflWyiJiyHcuB0wmnHLBzvX2iHvawNqQcOw5RWt4RExrStlbRUEBDiW72tfmfLMEGvnlwEZaPzthjjBqth678IBm1gJUlHbkXNeBvQTwadBCc1XVmD2ml7S9u0fXHHs4vrt9No9m6VkeO312uoQ%3D%3D&checksum=22263710871694af9fdc4c9345d49175a9df51e688cf
 
I suppose electric is possible but that would be an extreme answer... I just need a decent quality pulse pump. They do sell a BRP version of the exact same pump for $65... but it looks exactly the same as the cheap one... not sure I'm willing to pay that $65 unless somebody assures me it's not the exact same pump?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Johnson-Evinrude-OEM-Outboard-Fuel-Pump-397839-with-Gasket-BRP-OMC/263193407252?epid=13014454062&hash=item3d478caf14:g:ccwAAOSw2XFUZpWa
 
Could you buy the factory rebuild kit and put the parts from that into your cheap fuel pump?
 
There is one other thing you could do. You can make a steel or aluminum adapter plate to go on the side of the engine where the original pump came off. Tap it for a 1/4" barb fitting and then go buy a OEM Briggs and Stratton pulse pump, they will be only slightly bigger than that factory pump. They have 3 ports on them. One goes from the engine to supply pulse, one from the tank to the pump and one to the carb. They are all 1/4". This is the same pump used on kawasaki engines but will cost you around $50-60 a briggs pump will cost you about $25 and last for years.

There is plenty of room under those cowls to mount one.
 
Shaugh - The OMC Systematched pump is NOT a Chinese pump! Still carries a year warranty as well.

That QD was sounding very good! Been in your shoes. A few years ago Lesa and I were about 9 miles from the ramp and the power pack died on one of my 3-cylinder 25hp Johnsons. Thank God for a good trolling motor and the fact I was in my Gneenoe! That thing got us all the way back and at a fairly good pace.
 
Thanks for the ideas guys. If Pappy says the OMC pump is worth it I'm going that way.... It's just that those chinese pumps are so cheap they get me almost every time..... I've had some that worked fine.. but you simply can't trust them.. that's worth whatever it costs.... lesson learned.. again...

That was quite an exciting adventure to get back to the boat ramp... Usually I'm cautious with a new motor, but that thing ran so good I decided to go about 5 miles to my favorite spot for gar fishing.....lesson learned... again.

Other lessons learned:

When you decide to downsize and lighten your load.... with a pull start motor... bring a glove..... you should see my hand....

When you decide to downsize and lighten your load.... bring extra cold beverages and a something unimportant to rip to shreds in anger....

When you decide to downsize and lighten your load ....... bring the 2nd battery anyway..... I had only the one battery to use the smaller 30 lb motor.... it was on it's last flicker when I hit the dock....

When you decide to downsize and lighten your load...... don't take the lithium starter battery out of the tool bag...... If that one battery died I was a bathtub toy out there..... that's a bad feeling.....you can trust me on that...
 

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