What type of guide on for jon boat?

[KenG]

My current trailer has bunk boards on which the bottom of my 16 ft jon boat sits. I'd like to add guide ons but which are best, bunk style or roller style or post style? Any feedback?

Ken

 

[Brine]

I think it varies a bit with the type of boat and the ramps you use the most. I really thought I was going with side bunks until I saw most of them on other trailers completely underwater at one of our tournaments. That particular ramp was steep, but I see little value in having side bunks for loading if they are completely submerged while trailering the boat. Also take into consideration I fish mostly electric only lakes so there is no "power loading" the boat up on the trailer. I am liking the post idea more and more with the tail lights mounted at the top. Cures two common problems....blown trailer lights from water related problems, and loading on steep ramps. Not sure I have found any negatives other than you don't want your trolling motor (or anything else) sticking out past the gunwales while loading/unloading.

I like the looks and idea of the side bunks the best, but unless the ramps are fairly level or you use a big motor to load, it seems like there is a good chance of not getting to use them. I've had posts on my currnet trailer for a couple years now and haven't had problems getting the boat on the trailer, regardless of ramp or wind conditions.

There is a link on here somewhere with some homemade posts made from a ladder stand. Try a search. considerably less money than any store bought option.

 

[ben2go]

Check this out. https://www.widgetsailor.com/owners/greg/guides.html

 

[Loggerhead Mike]

im fixing to build simular ones to bens post but instead of buying the metal to fit all the way across the trailer im going to weld some scrap square tubing in a 90deg. and add the pvc

all of the ramps here are going to completely submerge your trailer and man its a pita with the current in the rivers

 

[Quackrstackr]

It will have to be a light boat for that unsupported PVC to work.

My 14' boat trailer has homemade guides. A piece of angle welded to the trailer with a piece of 1" pipe welded on top of that. A piece of PVC is then slid over the pipe and a round washer is welded on top of the pipe to keep the PVC from coming off but it can still roll. It's the best of the post and roller types and was all picked up at the scrap yard.

 

[Loggerhead Mike]

thanks for the advise. off to the landfill! :mrgreen:

 

[Zum]

I had stainless ones,with foam on the uprights...foam keep getting all hacked up---didn't like it.
I did the all PVC,no inner metal at all,works fine.
Had some 1.5" PVC laying around,bought a couple 60degree fittings,glued it together probably only used 10 feet.It has alittle flex but not much.
My boats a 1652,with an outboard,maybe I'm not hitting them hard enough but I doubt you can break PVC,maybe the fasteners will loosen and they will tip down?
Like I said no problems...well,, the first time I put it together I used ABS glue but that was my fault...they will come off that way

 

[Specknreds]

I need to replace mine also. My guide post have totally rusted out. Has anyone ever thought about using aluminum rigid conduit to make guide post?

 

[TrackerTom]

When I got my recent boat the trailer had the side bunk kit from Cabelas. Let me se if I can describe this well. When the bunks are installed, there are 2 corners at the top. The rear one is the first that would go under water. When I load my boat, I put that rear top corner about 1-2 inches above the water and the front top one is well out of the water. I can glide mine slowly up to about 1.5 feet from the roller. I step off the bow and get down to hook the strap and it pulls up very easily right to the post. Easiest loading setup I have ever had. Whether I'm going electric only or gas makes no difference. The bunks are plenty high and it loads easily.

Tom

 

[ben2go]

I need to replace mine also. My guide post have totally rusted out. Has anyone ever thought about using aluminum rigid conduit to make guide post?

Aluminum and steel don't mix and the aluminum will corrode.If you can isolate the metals from each other,it'll work fine.Maybe rubber bushings of some sort.

 

[MikeA57]

I've got the type pictured below on mine. They work well and you don't have to worry about them getting submerged. I don't know where my Dad got them but they are well over 20 yrs old and still strong.

 

[Loggerhead Mike]

ive said it before but you have the coolest oldschool trailer ive ever seen

 

[daniel_loz]

That trailer really is amazing. I would take one of those over my newer galvanized any day...

 

[Brine]

When I got my recent boat the trailer had the side bunk kit from Cabelas. Let me se if I can describe this well. When the bunks are installed, there are 2 corners at the top. The rear one is the first that would go under water. When I load my boat, I put that rear top corner about 1-2 inches above the water and the front top one is well out of the water. I can glide mine slowly up to about 1.5 feet from the roller. I step off the bow and get down to hook the strap and it pulls up very easily right to the post. Easiest loading setup I have ever had. Whether I'm going electric only or gas makes no difference. The bunks are plenty high and it loads easily.

Tom

Tom,

Would you mind posting a pic of your guides? I can't visualize it.

 

[ben2go]

I've got the type pictured below on mine. They work well and you don't have to worry about them getting submerged. I don't know where my Dad got them but they are well over 20 yrs old and still strong.

When I see that trailer it reminds me of those old hand drawn colored ads of the 50's and 60's.That trailer is a museum piece.I love it.

 

[MikeA57]

Thanks guys! Now, if I COULD JUST FIND THE TIME TO GET THE BOAT BACK ON HER!!! :evil: :evil: