Working on my Boat (Updated)

[Trapper02]

I guess thats why it was $15 bucks. lol i just used it to take off the tires. If i am working the underside of the trailer i just flip the trailer over its not that heavy.

 

[PSG-1]

Yeah, I second the cautionary advice about using jack stands. A load can shift, and a jack can tip, and if that's all that's supporting the work, then things come crashing down.

A hand or other extremity between a hub and the concrete can be crushed, or even amputated if the trailer falls, depending on how heavy the trailer is.

 

[nomowork]

The scariest thing I see in the pictures is the lack of a jack stand!! Jacks are made for lifting not supporting a load for an extended period of time.

This is the first thing I noticed as well!! I highly recommend a new jack and jack stands. If you are working on that trailer just on that jack, it's almost guaranteed to come down.

KRS

I think these small trailers are about a hundred pounds or so. I sat mine on cement blocks while working on it. The blocks have more surface area to rest the trailer on than a regular jack stand.

 

[Trapper02]

Finished most of the grinding tonight on some small tedious spots. Just about ready to start priming.

How long should i let it sit before i apply a 2nd coat of primer?

Using Valspar's version of Rust-o-luem "Anti-Rust Armor Spray Paint,"
https://www.tractorsupply.com/valspar-anti-rust-armor-spray-paint-primer-red-oxide-12-oz--3401166

 

[Trapper02]

Here is my trailer thats just about ready for some priming action.

Here is the Wench post that i tested the primer out on first.

 

[user 7806]

The can should have recommendation between coats. I think once it tacks over it's okay to spray another coat.

Looking good BTW

 

[Trapper02]

Finished grinding off some old parts of the trailer and taking off old welds. Looks like I'll be doing some priming tomorrow.

 

[Frogman Ladue]

Will that be Zinc? or Galvanized? I just really want something that wont rust. My old bolt is zinc it clearly didnt last so i dont want to replace it with that. If stainless isn't the way to go what is recommended?

Here's your choice,

1.)Grade 8 with paint
2.)an axel assembly shearing off the trailer, and bouncing through a school bus window on the opposite side of the road.


You absolutly, 100%, must have to have hardend steel bolts. Anything else is not strong enough! Stainless is way too soft. Get atleast grade 5, preferably 8. You have everything on the trailer riding on a couple of 3/8 bolts...the least you could do is make sure they are strong 3/8 bolts.

I've never even heard of grade 9! That's a new one for me. I'm familiar with grade 8 bolts, and those are some strong bolts....I think shear force for a 1/2" grade 8 bolt is about 150,000 PSI.

SAE nomenclature will call it grade 8+
On metric thread, grade 9.

 

[Trapper02]

Does the school bus then ignite into flames and crash into a orphanage? lol jk

Ok i will stay away from SS for these bolts and get a grade 5 to grade 8 bolt. I think just the fact that i wont be storing it outside will help with my future rust problem.

 

[Trapper02]

Getting a list for my trailer parts i need, One thing i cant find is a trailer jack that will fit my tongue. My pipe is only 2" x 2" seems all the trailer jacks i find are made for 3" to 5" Anyone know where to look?

 

[Trapper02]

Well trailer is primed and ready for the next step. Just shooting that fresh coat of red primer on my trailer it looks 100 times better. I was so tired last night i forget to get a pic i'll grab some tonight.

I ordered my new u bolts, spring bolts, new winch and winch seat and some bunk mounts. Now just gotta wait on the UPS man.

In the mean time this week i will be gathering materials to replace/repair my trailer tongue. Metal place near by should have what i need in 2x2 square tubing and then get a collar piece to fit inside and connect the old with the new tubing. Talked it over with my cousin and he said just get the parts and he will knock it out for me!

Can't wait until the trailer is done cause then comes the fun part, actually working on the boat!

 

[Trapper02]

If you were going to paint your trailer and you had to choose from these 3 paints which would you choose? Looking for Best chances to keep from scratching off to badly, best durability. Prefer the option to use a rattle can on the trailer just cause if i need to touch it up one day it would be no big deal to go snag a can. I used 2 coats of the red oxide anti rust primer for my base coat.

 

[Frogman Ladue]

I'd go with Rustoleum. If you ever have to touch it up, the color and formula will still be available for decades to come.

 

[nomowork]

When I "restored" my tin's trailer, I just got most of the surface rust off, primed with marine primer using a micro foam roller. I also used a micro foam roller to apply the Rustoleum paint. I prefer using a roller and brush as it get more paint on the surface. Yes, spraying does give a cleaner finish, but the micro foam roller comes really close to a spray finish. In fact, some gearheads use micro foam rollers to paint cars! Some of their finishes are really nice after sanding between applications.

 

[Trapper02]

Picture update!

Here is the new U bolts i pulled my hair out trying to locate they fit perfect! Thanks to Speedwaymotors.com

And here is the trailer primed and ready to go with two coats of primer on everything.

Next will be getting my trailer tongue repaired then ready for the finish coat and add my trailer accessories back to the boat.

 

[Trapper02]

Here is my picture update after painting with Valspar Tractor & Implement Spray Paint. As you can see some of the paint has rubbed off with the tightening of bolts. Some of it maybe due to i was just excited and put it on to early and it hasn't had real time to set and really harden and some of it may be due to only having one coat on it at the moment. I have to wait 36 hours now before applying 2nd coat. But boy do those new shiny bolts look good with that glossy black.

The reason I decided on Tractor & Implement Spray Paint simply cause i thought, hmmmmm tractors are heavy duty equipment. They are out there in the elements and probably gonna have a paint that doesn't scratch off lightly and holds up to the elemnts. So this should be killer for my trailer. My not be the best reasoning but thats what i thought of when looking at my paint options.

If you have used "Tractor & Implement Paint" feel free to share your results and any tips.

 

[user 7806]

I think your reasoning was good from what I have heard from painter friends implement paint is pretty tough, it's basiclly old time Enamel and it takes a long time to really dry but when it does it tough. I would guess the Vlaspar brand would be the same.

Glad to see another rattle can sprayer around. I have a truck I sprayed with rattle cans.

 

[Trapper02]

Thank you! I was really impressed by the spray cans worked better than i ever thought they would, and i got the handle / nose gun attachment makes so much easier.

From what i am reading it seems like the "Tractor & Implement Spray Paint" can really take a long time to sit and harden so l think I just jumped the gun on putting my stuff back on the trailer to quick.

After applying the 2nd coat i will give it extra time to sit and harden... Much More than just about 12-16 hrs hehe

 

[JamesM56alum]

Looks great man, it's coming along nicely, did you get the tongue fixed yet?

 

[Trapper02]

Thanks!

Not yet, should be this week. I Called my cousin to tell him i had the parts and he said we would get together Early this week. Hopefully he doesn't get busy.