1971 DURACRAFT MOD V - JON BOAT CONVERSION- ADVISE WELCOME

I recently bought the Duracraft and I am in the process of fixing up the boat. I am about half way done with the over haul. However , I feel you are never really done fixing these Jon Boats up.
I just recently discovered this thread. I could always use tips and advise on making the boat bettter. Every one on here seems to have a very extensive knowledge on jon boat conversions.
These are the photos taken by the guy selling the boat. He sent me these when we first started Emailing when I asked him about it on craigslist. Good old Craigslist .....
Just yesterday I started documenting the conversion. I am on the wiring now and see the light at the end of the tunnel. I am 23 - and In somewhat of a hurry to get out on the water - it being spring allready- and this being my first boat to own. I am not the richest person as I feel we all say this - but I dont want to cut to many corners going cheap and then get out on the water and suffer because of bad craftsmanship.

Please Tell Me Your Secrets, Tips, And Hints!

I am a proud member of TinBoats now respectfully summit my thead with hopes of fixing up the greatest Jon Boat conversion ever. ( Not Likely , I have seen some of these threads - and most every one is very Impressive!)

Nice boat. Welcome aboard.

I have been rebuilding my trailer, which i bought used for $300. Check out the thread here: https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=49&t=13166

Your trailer looks like it's galvanized so probably not much rust. Your coupler and winch look about as rusted as mine were. I replaced the coupler for $11 and the winch for $25. The main thing you are going to need to do is check out the bearings and spindles. They might not be too bad as it looks like you have bearing buddies.

Good luck with the rebuild. It's a lot of work but a lot of fun and very satisfying when you start to see the finished product.

Cheers,
BC

Grats on a great boat, i have one called the riverdawg and I love it. 1960 version done a few things to it so far but alot more is in the works, i had a topic but im sure its gone to the wayside already, had some pics ill try to post some more for ya, the center can be made a live well prety easy, i have a small hole divider in the middle with aerator. minnows in one side if need be and the fish in the other. rod holders i made as well from 4 in pvc.

Looks like you got a good boat to start with. Where at in Texas are you from?

I am in Georgetown , just north of Austin/RoundRock

does any one know how to chat with out having to put it into a thread?

Great work on your boat! I've just started my mods.

Question: How did you attach the wood to the bow? I'm wanting to mount a bow mounted trolling motor on my boat, but need to attached a wooden base to be able to mount the motor. Did you drill into the hull and attach the wood? Or did you build a frame and let the wood sit on top of the hull? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

vgolondrin said:

Great work on your boat! I've just started my mods.

Question: How did you attach the wood to the bow? I'm wanting to mount a bow mounted trolling motor on my boat, but need to attached a wooden base to be able to mount the motor. Did you drill into the hull and attach the wood? Or did you build a frame and let the wood sit on top of the hull? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

Click to expand...

The bow platform sits flush with the top of the boat. On this boat there was a rail running the length of the boat on both sides to the front where the mod V began. I just cut it big enough to over hang slightly - 1/8 of an inch- and then sealed/carpeted the wood sat in place and bolted the platform into the rails. A simple 2/4 brace cut the proper hiegth sits in the middle just in case for some reason I am standing on top of the platfrom. There was a small prebuilt deck made as part of the boat from the manufacturer. The brace sits on top (screwed in ) of the small platform.
Having the platform there makes the trolling motor easy placed into the water and sits out of the way. When done like this it gives the top platform a shelf look from the front deck. This helps also when mounting the trolling motor (bow mount). As you need to be able to reach underneath the platfrom to put the nut on the bold for the bow mount. This also made a good place for cabin lights. A few stainless steel screws zipped into the front hull (with pre drilled holes) along the very front nose of the boat, made the platfrom reliable enough to pull the boat around with the trolling motor. Remember - this needs sturdy and needs to be able to support the weight of the pull from the trolling motor.

If you look at the "before" pictures you can see how it sits flush with the front end. I was lucky the guy before me hade a good design. I kept the design and added improvements.


The wooden deck sits flush on top of the (pre) built nose deck that was built as part of the boat (welded in by dura craft) and the front seat. I cut the large wooden deck out of 3/4 plywood. It sits on top of the front seat and mini front deck mounted with lag screws. I had to raise the deck slightly to sit flush and level with the front/mini deck. I just cut out a 3/4 inch section of plywood to sit the length of the seat. I was in a hurry and tried to keep it simple - but I also wanted quality work. I bought "galvenized" lag screws long enough to reach the metal in the seat and deck. Then -Pre drilled holes slightly smaller than lag screw size and then wrenched the lag scews in. It has seemed to work just fine without any signs of the lag screws backing out or pulling out. I was careful not to over tighten as I didn't want the threads on the screws to "waller a hole in the metal " - making the hole I drilled bigger and useless. The whole point was to have the threads catch and seat the screw into the metal.

It is important to use galvenized parts. Stainless steel is ok , but if you want it done right use something that is going to last and wont rust. If you use pressure treated wood make sure to use gavenized! Pressure treated wood reacts badly with metal because of the chemicals in the wood. It will cause pitting on the aluminium also. So be sure to prtoect the boat with paint or carpet the wood before puting it in the boat. I would aviod it all together. I bought non treated wood and coated / treated the wood with thompson wood sealer and plan to keep the boat cover at all times when not in use.

I plan on using the sheet rock ancors (1/4) inch, soon to re-enforce the deck and add "extra hold" on the deck. They have these at home depo. I will use these to keep the wood from warping and pulling out the lag screws out. It is a simple devise that will allow you to drill a hole, drop it through - then it expands on the back side of the (wall... or in this case my seat) and when you tighten your bolt it pulls on the back of the surface making a secure hold. Make sure to put the washer on first - once you drop these guys in you have to back the bolt all the way out or cut the bolt , thus loosing the spring catraption. Theis works well when mounting seat pedistols. Just remember that most of the time.... mounting a pedistol on just the aluminium is a bad idea. It is soft metal and will most likely pull through. Use 1/2 to 3/4 inch plywood bettween the seat and the boat metal bench seat and be safe. Secure the wood to the seat also with scews zipped in or lag screws. You wouldn't want to land a strike and lean back and the seat pull out of the old boat metal bench.

What kind of boat do you have? I hope that helps some.

I did not realize this was the old post - under my name I have the link to the new post with my before and after photos- you can see the design of the deck and how I put some things together. Start a chat there if you want....

SWAMP THANG PROJECT
viewtopic.php?f=21&t=13527

this is the new photo link-