1 Engine 1 Battery setup.

[CalicoJack]

I redid the diagram - is it workable?

 

[Still Afloat]

A crimp connector provides a pressure connection to the wire and the terminal

A soldered connection connects the wire to a terminal using eutectic metals of lead, tin, silver that are heated to the melting point and flowed into the wire and terminal. If the wire and/or the connector is not at the temperature to melt and flow the solder, the solder will not properly bond to the wire and/or the terminal. That creates a cold solder joint recognizable by a frosty appearance. A cold solder joint is an inefficient bond between the wire, solder, terminal.

I always found it easiest to explain by soldering 2/0 stranded wire into a battery terminal and cutting the connector in two. Did the same with 2/0 wire in a terminal properly crimped. When the sectioned pieces are examined, the soldered wire had obvious voids and many strands did not even get soldered. The crimped one look like a piece of copper rod and the wires strands could barely be identified.

Other ways for bonding dissimilar metals are exothermic bonding, laser fusion, high current discharge welding, among other methods.

One more point with soldering wires, the dissimilar metals in a damp environment promotes both corrosion and electrolysis which in time will severely degrade the connection.

I know this is out there for an explanation, but it should give you guidance to make good decisions based on science and not hear say.

A little common sense goes a long ways. While soldering 2/0 wire is poor example, a properly soldered connection on 10 gauge and smaller wire and terminal is typically more reliable than a crimped connection. Particularly if crimping pre-insulated connections. (If the only crimp connectors that I can find are insulated, I will remove the insulation before using them.)

Now if your soldering iron or gun doesn’t have adequate wattage, is poorly maintained or you don’t want to take the time to learn how to solder then a crimp connection is probably the best choice.

I typically do both crimp and solder. Crimp a bare connector with a high quality crimping tool. Using a hot iron, solder the end or tip of the wire to the connector and then heat shrink the connection. The crimping establishes a good mechanical connection. The soldering establishes a good electrical connection and locks in that mechanical connection.

If you don’t use an adequate heat or if the tip isn’t tinned and clean, the soldering process will take longer than necessary which results in solder wicking up the wire. Wicking can damage the insulation can create a fatigue point.

A few voids in the solder are not a big deal for your typical marine application. Even in aerospace applications some voiding is acceptable.

 

[Still Afloat]

I redid the diagram - is it workable? View attachment 116687

It looks good but the switch is redundant if the breaker has a disconnect.

If you want to add the switch because it’s in a more convenient location, no problem. However the breaker should be first in the circuit and as close as possible to the battery.

 

[CalicoJack]

It looks good but the switch is redundant if the breaker has a disconnect.

If you want to add the switch because it’s in a more convenient location, no problem. However the breaker should be first in the circuit and as close as possible to the battery.

 

[CalicoJack]

Battery, circuit breaker and fuse box will be in close proximity to each other with the battery also in its own secured dowb box - everything will then be inside a larger aluminum box that is already on the boat.
I just figured I would add the single circuit on/off switch so it could be placed outside the aluminium box for easy access.

 

[Still Afloat]

Battery, circuit breaker and fuse box will be in close proximity to each other with the battery also in its own secured dowb box - everything will then be inside a larger aluminum box that is already on the boat.
I just figured I would add the single circuit on/off switch so it could be placed outside the aluminium box for easy access.

That’s your call if you want the switch too. It doesn’t hurt anything.

 

[airshot]

I am very good at soldering, making poor connections is not an issue for me. However, I have had numerous crimp connections fail over the years, even professional crimps and corrosion has been a big part of that failure ! After soldering, I always use a shrink wrap with a sealant inside, even made my own long before they became availiable over the counter. I fully respect your opinions and I am not an electriction by any means, but thru my own experiences, I will continue to choose my soldering until I find something more condeming to the solder type joints.

 

[CalicoJack]

Thank you to everyone who commented and helped me out. I appreciate you giving me your time.

 

[Sea Antsy]

A little common sense goes a long ways. While soldering 2/0 wire is poor example, a properly soldered connection on 10 gauge and smaller wire and terminal is typically more reliable than a crimped connection. Particularly if crimping pre-insulated connections. (If the only crimp connectors that I can find are insulated, I will remove the insulation before using them.)

Now if your soldering iron or gun doesn’t have adequate wattage, is poorly maintained or you don’t want to take the time to learn how to solder then a crimp connection is probably the best choice.

I typically do both crimp and solder. Crimp a bare connector with a high quality crimping tool. Using a hot iron, solder the end or tip of the wire to the connector and then heat shrink the connection. The crimping establishes a good mechanical connection. The soldering establishes a good electrical connection and locks in that mechanical connection.

If you don’t use an adequate heat or if the tip isn’t tinned and clean, the soldering process will take longer than necessary which results in solder wicking up the wire. Wicking can damage the insulation can create a fatigue point.

A few voids in the solder are not a big deal for your typical marine application. Even in aerospace applications some voiding is acceptable.

While we are not discussing a "Y" by any means... ? did't the ABYC or what ever that Boating Yacht commission or council have something to say about solderd connections in a marine environment...?? I thought it was about flexing and metal fatigue or something...
I sprung for one of the ratcheting crimpers.. awesome.. and with my name on the handle I can get it back from my bud's!!!!

 

[Nornitras]

If you use regular stranded battery cable and battery connectors from any store you will be fine and they are reusable. Most small to medium boats will use significantly less current than any auto. So auto battery parts and methods are fine and are lower cost and readily available.

 

[thill]

It’s funny to hear negative comments about battery switches that are designed exactly for that very purpose.

It's also funny to hear it recommended to use a breaker as a battery switch... something NOT designed for daily use as a switch.

Properly installed, self-sealing, tinned marine crimp terminals last for decades, for what it’s worth.

 

[MDCrappie]

While we are not discussing a "Y" by any means... ? did't the ABYC or what ever that Boating Yacht commission or council have something to say about solderd connections in a marine environment...?? I thought it was about flexing and metal fatigue or something...
I sprung for one of the ratcheting crimpers.. awesome.. and with my name on the handle I can get it back from my bud's!!!!

That's why you "Crimp and Solder". When I learned to solder (back in about 1969) it was always "Good physical connection first" then solder.

 

[Al U Minium]

It's fun to have discussions like this with a topic I enjoy.

Tell me how Crystal River is with the hurricane flooding that occured on Rt 19 and what about the sink hole in the parking lot of the grocery store!

 

[thill]

If you use regular stranded battery cable and battery connectors from any store you will be fine and they are reusable. Most small to medium boats will use significantly less current than any auto. So auto battery parts and methods are fine and are lower cost and readily available.

They may work fine, but may corrode a little faster in a marine environment. Make sure to use shrink tubing with hot-melt sealant/glue inside to protect them. Sealing with vaseline helps too.