1956 Evinrude Lark 30 HP Tear down

[Pappy]

Wow....well done, Sir!

 

[Shaugh]

Good for another 2 lifetimes..... Now on to the next one....

 

[RaisedByWolves]

Bump.

Any progress?

 

[Piomarine]

There has not been any progress as of late. I’m a high school teacher and school has started for us so that has been my main focus.

My next project is going to be a thorough scrubbing of everything and pulling the top crankshaft seal. Once I can get all of the seals, ignition parts, and new rubber and gaskets in hand I will start reassembly.

I still need to figure out how to get the motor clamp screws unfrozen. Also I am still getting a slight hitch in the cylinders where the motor was frozen. The walls feel smooth and there is no corrosion but even still it just want to slightly hang up when I spin it with a socket wrench. It is so much more loose than it was though, and getting better the more I spin it.

 

[jgdunham]

You may want to make or buy a seal puller for the top seal. Cracking the ring that extends up from the block is very bad.

 

[Piomarine]

JGDunham do you have some suggestions for making a puller for the top seal?

 

[Shaugh]

There's no bronze under the upper seal, just a hardened steel bearing.

the other way to do it is with a slide puller:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kKBx0hemaWY

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BUI5X6Q?pf_rd_r=XNEKP7SAC85DSXYPEJWE&pf_rd_p=edaba0ee-c2fe-4124-9f5d-b31d6b1bfbee

 

[Piomarine]

So I was back at it tonight. I attempted the screw method on the crankshaft seal and I must be cursed with this method! I attempted it twice and when it didn’t work I stopped and here I am.

I used a stainless steel, fine threaded sheet metal screw. Drilled a small hole at the transition and ran the screw by hand. It hit hard bottom and began to turn and wouldn’t track straight and didn’t lift the seal at all. Ultimately it stripped out the holes and stripped the threads off of the screw.

Again...I’m at a loss

Also, I discovered a crack in the magneto cam. I assume this will need replacing.

 

[CedarRiverScooter]

Hey there Pio - When pulling a seal with screw, you don't want to bottom it out. Just get the threads to bite then pull on the head with a lever.

 

[Piomarine]

Thank you! That’s exactly what I needed. It came right out!!!

Any opinions about the crack in the magneto cam?

Also, is it possible/advisable to hone the cylinders with the block still intact? That little hiccup when in the position where it froze is concerning me. I have felt around the cylinders and they feel fine, I have rubbed some sand paper in there but there’s no change. Could it be pointing to a problem somewhere else??

 

[CedarRiverScooter]

I think you can get a new points cam for small money. It pulls off. You might need a new key for it too.

So what is your goal?

If you want a motor that will not fail, you will need to do a full teardown/inspection/machining/rebuild.

If you just want to boat where someone else will be around to tow you in, just get it running, have some fun with it, & keep your fingers crossed.

 

[Shaugh]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Johnson-Evinrude-Outboard-Motor-Cam-0510169-510169/174052502273?epid=1837540851&hash=item2886566b01:g:KkkAAOSwxYpdllbT

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Johnson-Evinrude-OMC-302602-Key-Cobra/283340534707?epid=1151297432&hash=item41f86973b3:g:b7EAAOSwWtFcPnaz

 

[Piomarine]

The woodruff key I have for it is in good shape so no worries there but I will plan to replace the mag cam.

CRS to your question I guess if pressed I would lean more towards the latter. The only reasons for that are simply time, money, and skill! I don’t posses the money for a $1200 professional inspection, overhaul, and rebuild, and I don’t have the time or the skill to do one myself. My goal with this motor is to have something that I can be reasonably assured will work when I need it to. I do not play on unpopulated lakes.

From what I have seen thus far it does not look like this motor was “rode hard and put up wet!” It looks like whoever had it before me too care of it while they were using it and abandoned it when it overheated and seized.

I hope that gives a little perspective about where I’m at and what I’m looking to get out of it.

 

[Shaugh]

You're getting there one step at a time. I personally wouldn't worry about the tight spot. the best hone job in the world is a motor running at 3000 RPM for a while.... Get there and see if you still need to worry about it. That super seahorse in the other thread had the same.

I'd enjoy restoring your hood if you would send it to me. Just pay for the shipping back to you ? Would be an nice winter project.

 

[Piomarine]

The project is yours!!! Just text me.

 

[Piomarine]

I have asked this question a few times but always in conjunction with more pressing matters. My mounting screws are still frozen and I have tried everything I know to do heat, penetrating oil,both, padded channel locks...I’m at a loss!

The tilt assembly is also frozen but as far as I can tell it’s just really dirty. Any tips for disassembling and cleaning this assembly is needed, especially with 2 large springs involved.

 

[Weldorthemagnificent]

Using heat to loosen a stuck fastener, you have to heat the area around the bolt quickly. Once the heat soaks into the bolt, it will expand at the same rate as the surrounding material. Propane torch is sometimes enough but sometimes it takes to long allowing the heat to soak through. I prefer to use an acetylene torch, however extreme care must be taken not to overheat and melt the aluminum! Keep at it. Using your propane torch, heat around one clamp bolt about an inch away from the bolt. Move the heat quickly around the bolt area and try cranking the bolt back and forth. Sometimes only a little heat is needed and sometimes a lot, so keep trying the bolt as you heat. Penetrating oil between rounds. Good luck!

Sent from my CLT-L04 using Tapatalk

 

[Shaugh]

They've been soaking forever already so they're not going to magically start working.... The bigger hammer is your only choice imo. Put a 2 ft piece of 1" conduit over the handle and see if that works to break them loose. Worse case is you break the handle, but new ones are easy to get.

If you want to try to preserve the handle you could drill it out and try a big crescent wrench on the flats... Odds are the conduit will work... Heat could also help but I think they are likely welded together with corrosion and the only real solution is more force... applied gradually...

 

[Piomarine]

I will try the pipe. Any ideas for the tilt and motor angle system? The lock/release tab doesn’t move and I can’t move the pin to change the motor angle.

 

[Shaugh]

Get the clamps working so you can tighten the motor down to the mount. Then try moving it by grabbing down by the skeg.