CMOS
Well-known member
Howdy All,
It's time for me to share my project, which some of you have already helped with. I found a 1963 Lone Star 14' V "Commander" that was, for the most part, in decent shape. She just needed some TLC.
The old paint, all 3 or 4 layers, was peeling badly, I saw a bunch of rivets that had popped out, a few dings in the hull here and there, and a rotted transom, but I saw excellence in the gauge of the metal (AL), sturdy structure, and some nice looking lines!
Let's get started, shall we? (Follow the picture links below)
Picture #1 is when I first brought it home. The trailer has since been sanded down to near metal, primed, and painted with a nice gloss black. I have replaced all the bunks, every roller, and the V-stop, as well as every darn bolt and nut. I used SS hardware everywhere I could. I also rewired the entire light system using only soldered connections with Heat Shrink tubing to seal the connections further. I chose some submersible LED running lights and tail lights. .
Picture #2: the rotted transom - I learned first hand what happens when a transom replacement is not done properly, and previous to my ownership, it was not. Someone before me used Marine Treated Plywood, and guess what I found under that rotted wood? Yes, corroded Aluminum metal on the transom. This changed the plan as I thought it would be as simple as replacing the wood with a good resin-sealed piece. I chose to clean up and sand the corroded areas (see Pic #3 where you can see daylight through the small corroded places), sand them down, and place over the entire transom one good layer of fiberglass & resin. See Pic #4. Pics #5 and #6 show the new transom in place. I used some leftover Finishing Plywood from another project, and put 3 coats of resin to completely seal the new wood. I also had to replace about 25-30 rivets here and there where some had broken, several on the seat attachment rivets. So glad I bought that pneumatic rivet gun.
Picture #7 shows the interior fully primed with Self-Etching Primer. It took a #$*!load of sanding to get it ready for that primer.
Picture #8 shows the boat upside down so that I could sand the bottom and also fix some dents, and replace some rivets (all sealed with 3M 5200 sealant).
Picture #9 shows a 1966 Johnson 9.5 HP motor I found elsewhere. It is currently running like a champ after doing all the suggested things for a motor of this age.
Picture #10 shows yours truly enjoying a glass of Texas wine after finishing the 2 coats of Sea Hawk Aluma-Hawk epoxy based paint on the bottom of the hull. I used a pneumatic spray gun.
Picture #11 shows the interior painted. I sort of finished 1.5 coats and ran out of paint so I'll need to finish the second coat when it arrives. Looking good I think . . .
https://www.thetexaswineguy.com/Boat1.jpg
https://www.thetexaswineguy.com/Boat2.jpg
https://www.thetexaswineguy.com/Boat3.jpg
https://www.thetexaswineguy.com/Boat4.jpg
https://www.thetexaswineguy.com/Boat5.jpg
https://www.thetexaswineguy.com/Boat6.jpg
https://www.thetexaswineguy.com/Boat7.jpg
https://www.thetexaswineguy.com/Boat8.jpg
https://www.thetexaswineguy.com/Boat9.jpg
https://www.thetexaswineguy.com/Boat10.jpg
https://www.thetexaswineguy.com/Boat11.jpg
The next thing I want to do, and I would like suggestions, is to build some long, thick, cushions for the 3 bench seats. I envision using some resin-sealed plywood for the base, then wrapping that and some cushion foam with some marine vinyl. I also would like these cushions to be semi-permanent meaning they won't blow out during the drive but I can take them out if I desire.
I was thinking about inserting some SS T-nuts in the base wood of the cushion so I could insert a SS bolt from the bottom of the bench seat to secure the cushion. Thoughts?
This is where I am now.
Oh, in honor of my sweet little 5-year old daughter the boat will be named "Miss Emma", and her name will also be on the front bench seat (by request).
CMOS
It's time for me to share my project, which some of you have already helped with. I found a 1963 Lone Star 14' V "Commander" that was, for the most part, in decent shape. She just needed some TLC.
The old paint, all 3 or 4 layers, was peeling badly, I saw a bunch of rivets that had popped out, a few dings in the hull here and there, and a rotted transom, but I saw excellence in the gauge of the metal (AL), sturdy structure, and some nice looking lines!
Let's get started, shall we? (Follow the picture links below)
Picture #1 is when I first brought it home. The trailer has since been sanded down to near metal, primed, and painted with a nice gloss black. I have replaced all the bunks, every roller, and the V-stop, as well as every darn bolt and nut. I used SS hardware everywhere I could. I also rewired the entire light system using only soldered connections with Heat Shrink tubing to seal the connections further. I chose some submersible LED running lights and tail lights. .
Picture #2: the rotted transom - I learned first hand what happens when a transom replacement is not done properly, and previous to my ownership, it was not. Someone before me used Marine Treated Plywood, and guess what I found under that rotted wood? Yes, corroded Aluminum metal on the transom. This changed the plan as I thought it would be as simple as replacing the wood with a good resin-sealed piece. I chose to clean up and sand the corroded areas (see Pic #3 where you can see daylight through the small corroded places), sand them down, and place over the entire transom one good layer of fiberglass & resin. See Pic #4. Pics #5 and #6 show the new transom in place. I used some leftover Finishing Plywood from another project, and put 3 coats of resin to completely seal the new wood. I also had to replace about 25-30 rivets here and there where some had broken, several on the seat attachment rivets. So glad I bought that pneumatic rivet gun.
Picture #7 shows the interior fully primed with Self-Etching Primer. It took a #$*!load of sanding to get it ready for that primer.
Picture #8 shows the boat upside down so that I could sand the bottom and also fix some dents, and replace some rivets (all sealed with 3M 5200 sealant).
Picture #9 shows a 1966 Johnson 9.5 HP motor I found elsewhere. It is currently running like a champ after doing all the suggested things for a motor of this age.
Picture #10 shows yours truly enjoying a glass of Texas wine after finishing the 2 coats of Sea Hawk Aluma-Hawk epoxy based paint on the bottom of the hull. I used a pneumatic spray gun.
Picture #11 shows the interior painted. I sort of finished 1.5 coats and ran out of paint so I'll need to finish the second coat when it arrives. Looking good I think . . .
https://www.thetexaswineguy.com/Boat1.jpg
https://www.thetexaswineguy.com/Boat2.jpg
https://www.thetexaswineguy.com/Boat3.jpg
https://www.thetexaswineguy.com/Boat4.jpg
https://www.thetexaswineguy.com/Boat5.jpg
https://www.thetexaswineguy.com/Boat6.jpg
https://www.thetexaswineguy.com/Boat7.jpg
https://www.thetexaswineguy.com/Boat8.jpg
https://www.thetexaswineguy.com/Boat9.jpg
https://www.thetexaswineguy.com/Boat10.jpg
https://www.thetexaswineguy.com/Boat11.jpg
The next thing I want to do, and I would like suggestions, is to build some long, thick, cushions for the 3 bench seats. I envision using some resin-sealed plywood for the base, then wrapping that and some cushion foam with some marine vinyl. I also would like these cushions to be semi-permanent meaning they won't blow out during the drive but I can take them out if I desire.
I was thinking about inserting some SS T-nuts in the base wood of the cushion so I could insert a SS bolt from the bottom of the bench seat to secure the cushion. Thoughts?
This is where I am now.
Oh, in honor of my sweet little 5-year old daughter the boat will be named "Miss Emma", and her name will also be on the front bench seat (by request).
CMOS