Broken transom knee brace

[New River Rat]

Transom savers with manual tilt are OK until motor bounces off the saver and hits the street.

Just being curious, how could this happen? I've used that exact set up for 20 years and just can't see what you mean.

The transom saver is bungee corded around the LU you hit a pot hole and the motor jumps up and the transom saver comes with the motor when it flies up and it comes off the frame of the trailer and motor slams down all the way to the bottom of the tilt setting as the transom saver is no longer attached at the bottom.

You can get a transom saver that is pinned to the trailer frame and not just resting in the roller. This will eliminate the jumping off issue.

I got what muskieMike said. I never thought it was good to do anything but attach the saver to the frame. If my frame was that much off, I'd be looking to find a better fit.

 

[Sho]

Sho,
I've looked at several photos of those boats and it does appear to be a very simple replacement if it comes to that. First step is to get that top cap off and see if the wood is the cause. All you need to do is remove those top wood screws...



If the wood is rotten it appears all you'll need to do is remove the corner caps by drilling out the rivets and the bolts holding the seats and handles from inside... once you release everything holding the wood it should just pull straight up and out...


Here's a video with another way to test the transom:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KerFxYSkfWE

Thanks for looking into the repair for me shaugh. I spent the better part of last night searching for Lund transom issues and repair.

My boat is still in storage but I'm going to take a look at it this weekend. The motor is not on the boat so I think I'll remove a couple screws on the transom cap and poke around with a screw driver.

I wish me luck

 

[Sho]

Thanks to all that have chimed in.

This is the transom saver I bought. It screws in to the trailer frame so I would think I'd only have to make sure the other end was secure.

Same concept as the one I got from Cabelas. This design reduces the concern that it will come loose whilst underway.

BTW, are we not looking at the transom wood inside, or is that an aluminum we are looking at (where the knee brace flange is bent).

Thanks ldubs.

I was initially concerned about the broken transom brace but others have mentioned my transom might be the cause.

 

[Sho]

Well I checked out my boat today in storage and I think I dodged a bullet. I read on other forums that if the screws on the top trans cap spin then the transom is rotten. I took a couple screws out and the were very stiff and threaded in just fine.

I may remove the top transom cap completely to check out the wood just to confirm.

Phew....

Back to the transom bracket. Below is a close up shot. The top two holes are broken and the angle is straightened a bit. I also noticed a small crack at the top of the brace.

Let me know what you think is the best was to repair.

Thanks all

 

[Prowelder]

Well I checked out my boat today in storage and I think I dodged a bullet. I read on other forums that if the screws on the top trans cap spin then the transom is rotten. I took a couple screws out and the were very stiff and threaded in just fine.

I may remove the top transom cap completely to check out the wood just to confirm.

Phew....

Back to the transom bracket. Below is a close up shot. The top two holes are broken and the angle is straightened a bit. I also noticed a small crack at the top of the brace.

Let me know what you think is the best was to repair.

Thanks all

Get it welded

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[nccatfisher]

Well I checked out my boat today in storage and I think I dodged a bullet. I read on other forums that if the screws on the top trans cap spin then the transom is rotten. I took a couple screws out and the were very stiff and threaded in just fine.

I may remove the top transom cap completely to check out the wood just to confirm.

Phew....

Back to the transom bracket. Below is a close up shot. The top two holes are broken and the angle is straightened a bit. I also noticed a small crack at the top of the brace.

Let me know what you think is the best was to repair.

Thanks all

Yep, it really needs to be welded. Probably the flats removed and new pieces fabricated for them and welded to the knee brace itself. To you straighten them and repair them around where they are broken out they will just break again. The knee brace needs welding. It would be a fairly simple job. Almost as long to clean it well as to do it.

 

[Sho]

I appreciate all the advice guys. I guess I need to find a welder...

 

[nccatfisher]

I appreciate all the advice guys. I guess I need to find a welder...

Where are you at?

 

[Sho]

I appreciate all the advice guys. I guess I need to find a welder...

Where are you at?

Canada. And hour west of Toronto

 

[Weldorthemagnificent]

Guelph?


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[nccatfisher]

I appreciate all the advice guys. I guess I need to find a welder...

Where are you at?

Canada. And hour west of Toronto

Hmmmn, that would equate to about a 20 hour drive. Little too far for me to fix it for you.

 

[Sho]

Guelph?


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Yes. Fellow Canuck?

 

[Weldorthemagnificent]

Owen Sound area.


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[Sho]

Owen Sound area.


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Nice. How the fishing up there? My in laws moved up to Wasaga last year. Planning on taking a run at georgian bay this summer

 

[Weldorthemagnificent]

Georgian is fun. I have a smaller boat 16’ so I don’t do a lot of the bay but salmon fishing is fun. Couple smaller lakes but they see a lot of pressure and summer city people. Couple decent bass spots around here. I take yearly trips to the French river to get my fix.


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[Weldorthemagnificent]

As far as your problem, if you don’t want to weld it. Take the bolts out and get a piece of 1/8 aluminum and bend it to fit over the brace using a vice and hammer. Drill through and rebolt.
If you can’t get your transom saver to work for you, here’s what I do: When trailering I tilt the motor forward and put a 1” ratchet strap around the motor and pull it forward. I hook the ends to the trailer farther forward. I crank it pretty tight taking the weight of the motor and the bounce out of the equation. Old 1970’s 16’ Naden with a Johnson 35. I regularly tow it 5 hours or more on trips down the damndest roads. Transom is good.


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[Sho]

Georgian is fun. I have a smaller boat 16’ so I don’t do a lot of the bay but salmon fishing is fun. Couple smaller lakes but they see a lot of pressure and summer city people. Couple decent bass spots around here. I take yearly trips to the French river to get my fix.



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My boat is a 14ft so i plan I choosing my days carefully and staying close to shore. I mostly fish smaller conservation areas around here

 

[Sho]

As far as your problem, if you don’t want to weld it. Take the bolts out and get a piece of 1/8 aluminum and bend it to fit over the brace using a vice and hammer. Drill through and rebolt.
If you can’t get your transom saver to work for you, here’s what I do: When trailering I tilt the motor forward and put a 1” ratchet strap around the motor and pull it forward. I hook the ends to the trailer farther forward. I crank it pretty tight taking the weight of the motor and the bounce out of the equation. Old 1970’s 16’ Naden with a Johnson 35. I regularly tow it 5 hours or more on trips down the damndest roads. Transom is good.


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Thanks for the tip. I'm going to see how much it will cost to have it welded. If it's too much that could be a good solution

 

[MRichardson]

I had this happen to my boat.
Got a welder to recreate, with thicker aluminum sheet.
That, along with some caps he threw on the corners and my transom is now bomb-proof. Which is a good thing considering I throw a hella-vibrating mud motor on there for part of the year.