MattR said:
Which brings me to my original question is if anybody has done it and hoping to get any tips or hints regarding the project.
Well, I did it ...
sort of, meaning that when I had replaced the ENTIRE transom of my current tin skiff ... it was far easier for me to make it into a full, tall transom piece and then cut it down to what I needed for the motor height (mine is a long shaft). But the process is the same. I actually raised the height of my transom (see
red line in pictures) from where the old height was (
blue line). I'd need to see a picture of your hull to get a good glimpse at the knee and other structural systems to give good input.
I also cut it square and used bent channel aluminum cut on 45-degree angles, that was then bent and formed for the corners, for the trim cap. Internal to the cut (meaning where you can't see it) the 'cut' wasn't absolutely square - as there is a 1" radius corner. Truly square corners will be a form of stress riser - so avoid square cuts. I cut it with a sawzall and a new sharp blade. But drill the hole for the corner radiuses or radii (both are correct) in place 1st!
My new transom core isn't wood, but if your's is wood, I implore you to seal the exposed wood with epoxy. Buy the Sample Kit by Raka epoxy, only $18 before shipping (Link =
https://store.raka.com/epoxysamplekit.aspx) and includes:
"This kit includes twelve ounces of our standard marine epoxy Resin 127 with fast 610 and slow 606 hardeners, a small sample of silica, micro-bubbles, and a sample of standard 6 oz. fiberglass. Price $18.00". That's enough premium marine epoxy product for you to do the job well, and more!
I bolted the aluminum channel trim cap on, but a good hardware store will sell ribbed aluminum nails that you could do it with too, as that is what many tin hull makers use. Seal any nails or fasteners with a good polysulfide caulk/sealant for marine use.
DO NOT use regular silicone, as the curing agent in it attacks aluminum.
If using any SS hardware, insulate the SS from the aluminum by nylon washers under the washers for the nut or under the bolthead. Or use adhesive-lined heatshrink on the bolt body. I still recommend doing this, even if not used in saltwater, as aluminum is less noble than stainless steel and over time, the aluminum will corrode due to the presence of the SS, which steals its ions (called galvanic corrosion). A DIY cheap method - that works (I did it when I was poor ...) is to use duct tape. Yup, added a layer to backside of washers. It works!
So ... back to your original question of destroying [-X that fine tall-gunnelled hull (
am just kidding you here ... :wink: ) what else do you need to know?
Measure ... cut ... seal ... add trim cap. Mount motor and you're done! Strongly advise you measure 3 times and cut once.