Engine wiring question

[RivRunR]

I agree with all of the above...that amp rating seems too low, but if it is correct it would take a 50A breaker. And I agree with JMichael that mfg's don't install breakers for a reason, but maybe that's because the length of run is so short, and maybe they over-size the wire to compensate???

You're probably going to need a pretty heavy wire, like maybe 4AWG, to avoid voltage drop, so I'd think the likelihood of fire with wire that size would be slim...especially since the amp spike will only last for like a second, if that. On the other hand, there's no real downside to putting a breaker in the mix, other than the aggravation of figuring out what size, and maybe the price.

Best bet is probably to find an ammeter somewhere and measure the actual spike yourself, then go from there.

 

[BigTerp]

This thread has been helpfull. Makes sense that the amp load would only be brief when the engine is actually cranking. I'll probably try and test and amperage and based on the gauge wire I'm using, decide if a breaker is necessary. May try and contact Johnson/Evinrude to see what they reccommend, but I know OMC was the original maker of my moter, so not sure if they will help.

 

[chevyrulz]

if it didn't melt your butt connectors, or heat them up after a couple starts, it's fine. now, in the future, if that butt connection becomes loose or corrodes enough it could cause issues, so i'd make sure it's properly crimped & sealed up well with spray or liquid electrical tape. i put 3 coats of liquid electrical tape on my starter wire extension's butt junction to improve longevity in salty conditions. oxygen is what causes corrosion, so if air can't get to your wires, then they can't corrode :wink:

 

[DanMC]

On our Lund we have a 25 Hp Honda (2011 bought new) and it's on a breaker 165 A and the leads were extended about 1 meter so the battery fits under the bench....no issues !,i would protect it if i were you !