Float Pods

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I have used 5200 in direct contact with bare aluminum for years with no damage what so ever. Use good practice, like clean the contacting surfaces, allow it to set and cure.
 
The beavertail installation guide recommends 5200 if bolting them up. They recommend removing all paint and sanding both surfaces coating the surfaces thoroughly before bolting together. I have some G-Flex epoxy left over from when I repaired my transom that I forgot I had and I believe I have enough to do the job so that is what I am going to use. Only because I have it and it needs to get used up.
 
I will, thanks.
Jonny, in the photos you posted, you mentioned that these were from boats that the caulk and corrosion were already present, how do you know that the original owner didn't just caulk over bad metal and existing corrosion? There are chemicals present in some kinds of adhesives I am sure that might not be suitable for aluminum things like chlorine for example, but I have not really found anything that shows 5200 will corrode aluminum, I know that some of those caulks are not good to be used with plastic though. I do appreciate the heads up alert though.

When using 3MTM Marine Adhesive/Sealant 5200 with metals, it may be necessary to prime the surface
to achieve adequate adhesion and durability of the bond. Scotch-WeldTM Structural Adhesive Primer EC-
1945 B/A may be used for priming of most metals.


I think it is obvious this stuff was designed with fiberglass in mind. In the literature that I have been reading it is very vague about metal, it just says “some metals” may require priming, WTF? In some of the literature I read that they have a special primer for metals that will improve bonding, but again, nothing about preventing corrosion, it is for bonding. I am getting tired of reading technical data sheets.

The pod manufactures recommend using it so it should be good, hopefully.
 
Surf - when we buy an old boat, we have zero clue as to what was
done to it by previous owners or how long ago. The photos that I posted
of the ducer corrosion is just what I found - we can only draw our own conclusion as to how it happened.
I was not there, so I have no idea as to the mounting process that was done probably 5-20 years earlier.
I do know the difference in the popular caulks, so I can visually identify certain products. (most of the time).

and yes, you are so very correct in the daunting task of decyphering the instructions for the products we use.
due to the EPA and other government regulators, manufacturers must scramble to adjust their product
formulas to meet those specifications and still be as adequate to meet the consumers needs.

I have been a sign painter/fabricator and installer for well over 50 years and often
times we are challanged heavily to mount different sign materials to different surfaces with different methods.
this is how we (myself and colleauges) find out what works and what does NOT work for many products.......
Also, preserving and painting wood signs have their own inherent characteristics.
redwood and cedar will be preserved differently than plywood signs.
I have made some plywood signs 20 years ago and they are still standing today.
of course they need to be touched up periodocally, but the wood itself is still sound
after being in the harsh elements 24/7/365 for many years.
So, over the years, I have been exposed to several products that only work in the way
they were intended - anything else will be opening Pandora's Box of possible misfortune.

This why I advocate the saying: Read, Understand and FOLLOW the directions on the label
of any and all products you may use. They are there for a reason.

I have been an active member in the Sign Industry, Fine Woodworking and Wooden Boat arena since around 1980.
These are very fine places to learn just about anything wood related as well as preservation and painting techniques.
I also have been an instructor in wood carving, wood processing, preservation and painting since around 1990.

Spar Varnish is for exterior wood products
Urethane and Spar Urethane is for interior projects such as floors and furniture.
also I found out that some objects applied to a red brick building with 100% pure silicone will last forever.
the same objects applied a concrete block surface with 100% silicone will fall off in two weeks due to accelerated corrosion.
I guess the bottom line will be to read, understand and follow the instructions on the products you use.
If it says it may affect "some metals" I would only be guessing that they mean aluminum or copper.

jus my Dos Centavos on that there.

Edit:
a new product on the market is a lightweight product with thin aluminum
skins on each side and a foam composite core. Very weather resistant and strong.
we have a joke that goes like this . . . .
quick - go stick this new aluminum sign on the building using only 100% pure silicone. It should last 20 years.
- and then -
quick - go fix that new aluminum sign that just fell off the building !!!!! with bolts this time.



.
 
I pretty much agree although I would not assume "some metals" means any one in particular, steel corrodes rather easily if unprotected for example. As mentioned above there are many forms of corrosion, anaerobic and aerobic, these occur under the right circumstances and we all know what it means to assume.
 
[URL=https://s1181.photobucket.com/...s/x429/kapaauguy1/20161223-IMG_3333.jpg[/img][/url]

[URL=https://s1181.photobucket.com/...s/x429/kapaauguy1/20161223-IMG_3336.jpg[/img][/url]

Heres mine. I had flanges put on the top and motor side to bolt through and a 8" deckplate to access the inside for the rest of the fasteners. I'm not going to strip the paint on the transom. Im going to prep and prime the mating surface on the pods with zinc chromate and lightly sand the mating surface on the transom before applying 3M 5200. From what ive read most aluminum boats are primed with zinc chromate before painting so to strip it all down seems more work and less corrosion resistance than joining painted/primed surfaces.
 
Great job Molokai they look good. I thought about using the deck plates too they look a lot better but, they are kind of costly and I am probably just going to patch the holes with a plate. :)

Well I screwed up and failed to get the materials I need to complete this project over the holidays, too much going on and I just kept getting side tracked plus there are other projects around the house that needed my attention but, I was able to do a little prep work;

Here is one all sanded washed and etched ready for painting.


Here it is all primed. I decided I would go ahead and paint them before I hang them on the boat, I think it will be a lot easier to go it now than later when they are mounted. I am sure I will need to do some touch up but that is okay since I will need to do that anyway.
 
Hey guys!

I'm fairly knew to the boating/fishing world and was curious what's the biggest benefit to installing these pods? Is it that dramatic of a difference? I have a 2016 Tracker Grizzley 1754SC.
 
As far as a dramatic difference, I won’t know until I mount them but, the reason for mounting them is to offset the weight of the motor and me, especially in the rear of the boat when I am moving slowly over very shallow bottom. I hope it will enable the boat to float at least 2” higher (pretty optimistic). We will see.

That doesn’t sound like much but it can be a huge difference in some areas. I am looking for more clearance for my prop, basically. I don’t have a tunnel or a jet. I really don’t want a jet either although a tunnel would have been nice. I am only installing these because I like to fish a lot of skinny salt water close to shore and up some shallow creeks where deep draft can be a problem. They will essentially turn my 14’ into a 15’ boat.
 
I have been thinking of doing a before and after photo of boat in water. I need to do that to really justify all my hard work and effort. :)
 
surfman said:
I have been thinking of doing a before and after photo of boat in water. I need to do that to really justify all my hard work and effort. :)
I was thinking the same thing! I dont know how i would get the photo though if my fat butt was in the boat. I'm adding them for all the reasons you noted as well as two others. The possibility of a following sea swamping the stern is lessened and also, when you take off the bow will rise which means the stern will lower which can be problematic when you are already only inches from coral heads. lol
Looks like a great job painting. What did you use for etching?
 
You can buy phosphoric acid, it is available where paint is sold, it is a cleaning/etching solution. Any hardware store that sells paint should have it, I usually just use it full strength and be sure to wash all surfaces before and after using Dawn dish soap in hot water to de-grease. Probably wouldn't hurt to wipe it down with mineral spirits too.
 
And my dumb butt just put 100 % clear silicon on the outboard bottom bolts because the 5200 I used the first time leaked. I tried to put it on the bolts from the outside of the outboard bracket and pushed them in thru the hull which leaked. Second time around I pulled the outboard off the transom a couple inches after cleaning off the 5200 with a wire wheel on drill and shined that aluminum up real good then put the silicon in between the outboard and transom as I slid the bolts thru. You guys are saying I just created a corrosion zone right ?
 
Skipper - just monitor your work and take the appropriate
actions if you see something unusual happening in the silicone area.
I am only guessing that a fresh water application may take many months
to years before it causes any corrosion. Salt water definitely speeds up deterioration.
it is just that some of us have had some bad experiences with 100% clear silicone.
others have not had any problems - - - - thus comes the warnings.........
 
Or skip the goop engineering and just use sealing washers ?

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Blue-Hawk-75-Count-1-4-in-x-5-8-in-Neoprene-Bonded-Sealing-Washers/4317824
 
Okay, I finally got my pods installed over the week end, temperatures plunged into the upper 30's so it slowed down the glue hardening but they came out okay, I just need to touch up the paint now and finalize the project. I think I will start another thread on the actual installation. Might be tomorrow before I post it.
 
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