homemade trailer

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Tractor supply and Northern Tool sell plans.Their are plans on the internet,just do a google search.Unless you have a welder and free supplies,it's not worth it.Wheels,tires,winch,and coupler are going to run more than the cheap boat trailers that Northern and Harbor Freight sells.

This trailer can be used with a 16 foot boat if the bunks are built correctly.
https://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=5002

This trailer can be used with a 16 foot boat if the bunks are built correctly.
https://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_1063_1063

Boat Trailer blueprint plans for a large boat trailer.
https://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200308245_200308245
 
thanks
but yet i do have access to welders that will do the job, i was thinking of fabbing a tubular frame
anybody tried that??
 
The Northern Tool catalogs usually have some trailer kits or parts in them (we print them where I work), but honestly I'd keep an eye out on Craigslist and buy a used one for a third of what you'll have in materials to make one. Decent used boat trailers pop up for $200-300 often and you'll have that in the running gear with all new stuff.

Depending on the boat the little cheap lawnmower trailers could be reworked to hull a boat pretty easily if you can do some fab work.

Jamie
 
I've had one. Yes they can be built, but are very difficult to attach everything to and keep them from turning on the pipe. I've tried several things, but if you have time and the know how go for it.

My best tip is to make sure that from the tounge to the axle on both sides needs to be the same to insure that the axle will run straight.

Good luck.
 
My dad and I have built a couple completely from scratch. I usually find it cheaper to modify the one that comes with the boat (why can boats not come with a trailer that actually fits), than it is to build a new one, but on some trailers, that isn't possible, as what you have to start with is not really workable.

It isn't hard at all. In fact, it is downright easy. Buy your axle, springs, wheels, hubs etc from Northern or Tractor supply, and then get steel from a local steelyard. Really one of the easiest things you can make with a welder (for the most part, it is one dimensional, and as long as you keep everything plumb, you are set).

Ben, I have to respectfully disagree on those HF and Northern boat trailers fitting a 16 foot boat. They trailer, from coupler to back of the bunks is only 12.8 feet long. That is a good fit for a 10 foot boat, and a tight squeeze for a 12. It will not fit a 14, and the 14 will hang off so much in the back that you will probably see a hook develop in the hull. I wouldn't even try a 15 or 16 on it.

What I have done successfully, is take a Northern tool 42 x 48 inch trailer frame, and do a little modification on it, and it turns into a perfect fit for a 1436.
Here is one I did recently for a guy that had me do a little work on a 1436.
https://www.shareaproject.com/pages/projectTut,p,528,00.html

But, I don't think I would go that route on a boat much bigger than a 1436 aluminum. For the Whaler in question, if you can't find a good used one, building one is a great alternative, and while costly, you have brand new everythings, so you know the history of everything, and it will fit the boat perfectly, and suite your launching needs. That is my biggest issue. I am much more picky than most on my trailer, and rarely can I find one that fits the boat the way I think it should, and thus need to make my own.
 
thanks for the reply
i see you used aluminam sheet but wont it flex when you stand on it?iv seen people using poly board(woodchips an glue) to make there decking out of but wont that rot easy?
 
bird dogg said:
thanks for the reply
i see you used aluminam sheet but wont it flex when you stand on it?iv seen people using poly board(woodchips an glue) to make there decking out of but wont that rot easy?
No flex. The decking material in mine is .090, and I had to put supports fairly close together, as you can see in the pictures. I prefer to use .125, and cut back on the supports a tad, but none was available for the price I paid for the thin stuff.

I realized I forgot to put the correct link in the last post. Here it is, and I am going to edit it in my other post too.
https://www.shareaproject.com/pages/projectTut,p,528,00.html

I would definitely NOT use OSB. It is not designed to hold loads, like plywood is, and will rot easily. About the only thing that could be worse is MDF (Medium Density Fiberboard).
 
I bought a small kit trailer from Northern Tool like the one in bassboy's post. For my 1236 it's perfect after a couple of minor changes. I can't remember what the load rating is but it's pretty light. I think my boat,motor and misc. other things only come to about 300#. One problem I had was seeing it when it is empty. Because the trailer is so short and the back window of my Jeep so high, I couldn't see to back it up without the boat on. It cost me a couple of trailer lights until I added guide-ons and moved the lights to the top of those. The thing sits pretty low which is good for launching/loading but it makes me nervous to have the skeg so close to the road. I tow it with the motor up just to be sure. When I was shopping for a trailer I didn't want to spend a lot of dough and didn't want one too long because I have storage issues. This one did the job pretty well but again, my boat is small and light. It came with a bolt-on hitch for a 1-7/8" ball and I replaced that with a 2" which is what I already had for my camper. Also, there was no spare so I added that as well. The bunks are a little short I think but that sort of stuff is easy and pretty cheap to change. Otherwise, everything was there, safety chains, wiring harnesses, etc. The registration card was in some strange place - not with the parts package as I recall. I think it was stuck in with the packing list so don't throw away the boxes until you find it - saves a lot of time at the DMV.
 
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