Eddie Bait
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- May 11, 2012
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I have a 14' 1972 aluminum deep V, with 3 bench seats. I have been looking to find ways to attach a boat seat to the aluminum bench seat. I have read many different ways to do this from building a wood box around the bench seat to cutting a main center hole in the seat to using T-bolts, expanding bolts, etc.
I have also read that the typical swivel clamp that you buy at Cabelas tends to slip off the bench for us bigger guys who like to lean back. That big guy is me, and I don't have gills, so I would prefer to stay in the boat. This slipping issue seems to be a big problem for all kinds of people, according to the google research that I have done. The clamp can be seen here: https://www.cabelas.com/product/Boat-Seat-Swivel-Clamp/700641.uts
My issue is, that I want to keep my boat as light as possible, for performance and because I fish some bad boat landing lakes and rivers. Therefore I don't want to be adding Marine grade plywood to it. I also don't want to drill holes into the bench seat, because hardware pulls out of aluminum and my particular boat was built with a very light aluminum for the bench seats compared to the aluminum they use for jon boats today. And I want to keep it as close to it's original version, as it kind of has a nostalgic/vintage look to it. So the swivel/clamp makes the most sense. But the slipping off issue is very discerning.
So here is my proposed solutions and I would like your thoughts on this.
PLAN A: Consists of simply adding suction cups with a side-pilot hole.
https://www.suctioncups.com/suction-cup-types/medium-cup-with-14-side-pilot-hole/
I would try to put 2 cups on per bar, 4 total per seat. And simply tighten the clamps as normal. It looks as if you could disassemble the clamp and just slide the cup all the way through till it reaches the low cross bar. My question is, would the 1/4" hole be big enough for the bar? The issue I have, is that the company that sells these, sells them in packs of 500, and I only need 4 of them per seat. I may have to shop around. My seat is good ol fashion smooth thin tin, so I don't think I have to worry about them not sticking. But I may have an issue with sun weather deterioration, but they are clear so I don't think the sun would do too much damage.
PLAN B: Would consist of making something similar to how ear muffs work. For example I would take the blades of 2 Ping Pong Paddles (remove handles), and place the rubber side to the bench seat. I would then create a wooden channel on the back side of the paddle that the low cross bar would attach to. This would create the ear muff effect and hopefully prevent the boat seat from slipping.
I used the paddle example, to explain it the best. But I would probably use a 1/2" inch of marine grade plywood cut in a 1' by 8" section, And then find a thin piece of rubber with a reverse (gripping) tread, and glue that to the inside of the "ear muff". And then build a C channel (or complete channel) on the outside of the "ear muff" that would catch the low cross bar of the seat clamp.
Thoughts and recommendations would be highly appreciated. And if anyone knows where I, or others could find the make shift materials that I just mentioned above, at a low cost, would also be appreciated. Especially the suction cups with a big enough side pilot hole. And the thin rubber backing with an extreme gripping tread.
I will try plan A first, next week and I will report on how well, or not so well it worked.
Thanks!
I have also read that the typical swivel clamp that you buy at Cabelas tends to slip off the bench for us bigger guys who like to lean back. That big guy is me, and I don't have gills, so I would prefer to stay in the boat. This slipping issue seems to be a big problem for all kinds of people, according to the google research that I have done. The clamp can be seen here: https://www.cabelas.com/product/Boat-Seat-Swivel-Clamp/700641.uts
My issue is, that I want to keep my boat as light as possible, for performance and because I fish some bad boat landing lakes and rivers. Therefore I don't want to be adding Marine grade plywood to it. I also don't want to drill holes into the bench seat, because hardware pulls out of aluminum and my particular boat was built with a very light aluminum for the bench seats compared to the aluminum they use for jon boats today. And I want to keep it as close to it's original version, as it kind of has a nostalgic/vintage look to it. So the swivel/clamp makes the most sense. But the slipping off issue is very discerning.
So here is my proposed solutions and I would like your thoughts on this.
PLAN A: Consists of simply adding suction cups with a side-pilot hole.
https://www.suctioncups.com/suction-cup-types/medium-cup-with-14-side-pilot-hole/
I would try to put 2 cups on per bar, 4 total per seat. And simply tighten the clamps as normal. It looks as if you could disassemble the clamp and just slide the cup all the way through till it reaches the low cross bar. My question is, would the 1/4" hole be big enough for the bar? The issue I have, is that the company that sells these, sells them in packs of 500, and I only need 4 of them per seat. I may have to shop around. My seat is good ol fashion smooth thin tin, so I don't think I have to worry about them not sticking. But I may have an issue with sun weather deterioration, but they are clear so I don't think the sun would do too much damage.
PLAN B: Would consist of making something similar to how ear muffs work. For example I would take the blades of 2 Ping Pong Paddles (remove handles), and place the rubber side to the bench seat. I would then create a wooden channel on the back side of the paddle that the low cross bar would attach to. This would create the ear muff effect and hopefully prevent the boat seat from slipping.
I used the paddle example, to explain it the best. But I would probably use a 1/2" inch of marine grade plywood cut in a 1' by 8" section, And then find a thin piece of rubber with a reverse (gripping) tread, and glue that to the inside of the "ear muff". And then build a C channel (or complete channel) on the outside of the "ear muff" that would catch the low cross bar of the seat clamp.
Thoughts and recommendations would be highly appreciated. And if anyone knows where I, or others could find the make shift materials that I just mentioned above, at a low cost, would also be appreciated. Especially the suction cups with a big enough side pilot hole. And the thin rubber backing with an extreme gripping tread.
I will try plan A first, next week and I will report on how well, or not so well it worked.
Thanks!