Modification materials etc

TinBoats.net

Help Support TinBoats.net:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

mmf

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 27, 2010
Messages
318
Reaction score
0
Location
Kings Mountain NC
Please excuse me guys but I've got to be honest here and state some facts I have found over my years of aluminum boat restorations,

Never put treated wood in an aluminum boat, not even if you separate it with another material, the chemicals will leach out of the wood and get on the aluminum below it when wet.

Never put "anti-fouling" paint on an aluminum hull, these paints contain copper and will cause a terrible chemical reaction with the aluminum!

ALLWAYS, use stainless or aluminum hardware and SCREWS ONLY on an aluminum hull! NEVER galvanized anything or steel!

If you use a stainless fastener that might be removed at a later time, coat the threads of the fastener with anti-sieze for easy removal.

If you use wood on a deck or otherwise and seal it, remember to drill all fastener holes BEFORE you seal it or water will penetrate the wood at the drilled hole and be sealed in the wood with no means of escape!

All wood will eventually decay, be it waterproofed, marine or whatever, how many times you wish to do this over again is up to you, but aluminum will just about last forever!

Sorry but I had to add my 10 cents worth here from some of the posts I've seen.
 
Forgot this one, WIRING, if you run wire in an aluminum boat, especially the trolling motor wire that direct connect to the battery, it is better to run them in some type of PVC or flexible conduit for a sheathing. If you run just the wires through open places in the ribs and the insulation gets cut, its going to burn a hole in your hull while you are going down the lake or start a fire/explosion with the gas fumes from your tank.
 
Top