My 2022 SunTracker 22DLX Thread

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I did my first yearly maintence and winter storage for the Merc 150. No big surprises.

I like the oil drain feature and oil catch around the oil filter. It made it allot more pleasant/less messy. This is my 1st motor that has the gearcase drain behind the prop. I didn't think I'd like it, but prop shaft needs to be greased anyway, and it is more a bolt than the typical short drain/vent screws. It was a very slow drain with outside temps in the mid-forties. The drain screw hole was straight, vs angled down, so easier to get the pump threaded on.

Both the maintenance and storage call for removing the plugs. ie you fog by spraying into the spark plug holes. I assume this is because the air inlet is up under the flywheel cover. The bottom plug was a little harder to access but not cusingly hard. Had to make a long extension for the fogging oil.

The yearly maintenance also calls out an inspect and test of thermostat. The OP manual says see dealer. :( My serice manual hasn't arrived, so that will wait until spring.
 

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I’m seeing wot 31 mph gps, with rpm’s at 5400. Operating wot range is 5000 - 6000. That is with a light load of 3 adults and 60lb lab. The OEM prop is a Mercury Enertia 15.6” X 13P. Calculates out to about 10% slip, which I think is very good for a pontoon. While there is the Enertia 16” X 11P , it is around $900 with hub.

For a spare, chose a Solas Rubex 15.5” X 11P X 3. Went with the double cup version. I want to get the rpm’s up to be able to still be in the operating range with a full load. Hopefully be able to test this weekend.
I think you might want to drop a prop size, with a heavy load you'll be putting lots of load on that engine.

On another topic, you might want to look into this if your water is rough or you just want smooth and speed plus better MPG.
 
I did my first yearly maintence and winter storage for the Merc 150. No big surprises.

I like the oil drain feature and oil catch around the oil filter. It made it allot more pleasant/less messy. This is my 1st motor that has the gearcase drain behind the prop. I didn't think I'd like it, but prop shaft needs to be greased anyway, and it is more a bolt than the typical short drain/vent screws. It was a very slow drain with outside temps in the mid-forties. The drain screw hole was straight, vs angled down, so easier to get the pump threaded on.

Both the maintenance and storage call for removing the plugs. ie you fog by spraying into the spark plug holes. I assume this is because the air inlet is up under the flywheel cover. The bottom plug was a little harder to access but not cusingly hard. Had to make a long extension for the fogging oil.

The yearly maintenance also calls out an inspect and test of thermostat. The OP manual says see dealer. :( My serice manual hasn't arrived, so that will wait until spring.

I forgot to say, when I went to turn the motor over to distribute the fogging oil, it would only turn about 1/8 to 1/4 of a revolution and stop. I had pulled the safety pull stop to prevent spark. Apparently, the computer sees that and stops it from turning over. It took a bit to get a few full revolutions. When I get the service manual I’ll be interested in how to do a compression test.
 
I think you might want to drop a prop size, with a heavy load you'll be putting lots of load on that engine.

On another topic, you might want to look into this if your water is rough or you just want smooth and speed plus better MPG.


I hadn't seen that one, but did see the Hydrofin, which is similar but also has a smaller set of fins toward the back of the pontoons. For me, it looks to be too much adjusting to changes in cog, trailer mods, and don't like it hanging below the bottom of the toons..

Out a few years, I might consider having strakes added and possibly a 3/4 center toon.

Near term, I might be putting under-skin on it. I have access to the sheets of aluminum along with cutting and bending. That is suppose to make the ride a little smoother. It also will protect the plywood underside without causing rot issues.
 
Only put a pathetic 27.5 hours on the motor in its first season. :( I am going to blame it on being gone the month of June and the wet summer we had. ;)
 
I forgot to say, when I went to turn the motor over to distribute the fogging oil, it would only turn about 1/8 to 1/4 of a revolution and stop. I had pulled the safety pull stop to prevent spark. Apparently, the computer sees that and stops it from turning over. It took a bit to get a few full revolutions. When I get the service manual I’ll be interested in how to do a compression test.
I actually like it for it's adjustability. Might take a few tries to dial it in, but once it's set it should be set. The other set up does seem more polished but I'm not sure if you get the same benefit from them (economy wise). Either way you wind up going, just enjoy the boat.
 
Splashed the pontoon for the start of its second season. Only mod I did was a 20’ data cable to 5 port hub under the dash. The vessel view module will only be a couple feet away from the iPhone. Shouldn’t see any more disconnects.
 

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