- Jul 5, 2023
- Reaction score
- Lake Okeechobee/Everglades region of Florida
What a treat that was .............an expensive time consuming one for sure but love those old farms..........always a treasure chest of the past hidden in those weeds. I Pheasant hunt in the Dakota's in the fall and on those old farm properties are many abandoned vehicles from the 40's and 50's plus old farm equipment just sitting in the weeds......amazing to me.........the boat in the background photos looks like an Alumacraft hull from the 50's era too.The pasture where I was "given" a 1927 Chevy pickup had a lot of other items and one was a 14 foot aluminum boat that had NOT moved for years because one wheel bearing was apparently shot. This was before I needed to own a boat so I just didn't pursue it. I am sure the old guy would have said "take it if you want it" but I never asked. Instead, I spent two days before a blizzard hit to remove the 1927 from three venues on the abandoned farmstead..... Definition of a basket case..... and yes, I restored it... four years worth of restore.
Yes that was typical of the mfg as well as the sanded painted floor (usually grey)!Quick question... pulled off the shabby outside transom plate yesterday... as I removed the wood plate I found a layer of, I think, very thin cork between the wood and the aluminum.... is this typical?
Well I admire your persistence and patience in the more mundane work of the restoration. The boats were never highly polished to shine like a coin so i would be satisfied with a satin look to the aluminum if you want to keep it natural.Back in those days, I didn't live near a lake... not many in SE Minnesota. We had kayaks for the river and they were a blast. Long story to the 1927... Chevy pickup and could write a book. Didn't take the boat because I needed to haul the frame on my car hauler. Two days after the pictures were taken, a major blizzard hit. I worked to get the 1927 parts in extreme cold, way below zero windchills.....
Worked on the hull this morning again and spent two hours experimenting and finally came to a conclusion. I have four buffers and it would take a long time to get a mirror finish.. and I remember reading somewhere (brochure or forum) that the Alumacraft boat was supposed to be just plain duller looking aluminum. After two hours, I found that the Brasso was by far the best product. BUT... I needed to read the directions.... the surface had been sanded with 180 and then 220..... I tried many different cleaners but I finally sprayed a two square feet section of the sanded hall, liberally, with water.... squirted on some Brasso, and got a soaking heavy duty paper towel.... and spread the Brasso around and let it sit for about five minutes... worked it a bit and then wiped off the mess.... and finally used a microfiber cloth to "buff" the area.... I am sure this is what the aluminum looked like originally.... and I am satisfied... I cleaned up to the rub rails on the side and above the rails I plan to buff the top of the sides to a mirror finish, clean the area with alcohol and apply the decals.... and learned that after they are applied and wiped down, wait a day and use clear nail polish around the perimeter (edges) of the decals... I have never done that before but that was the recommendation from the Ebay seller.... Tomorrow I start cleaning all the rivets on the "other side" of the hull with the wire wheel... and then get out the 180 orbital velcro sander... Same as all restorations... find the best way that gives the best results and go with it... This second half of the hull should only take a half day or so.
Someone painted the floor of this boat and added a sand product to prevent slipping... I am guessing this was not done at the factory but by an owner later. Could it have been done at the factory???? Regardless, I will do the same...
Maybe some pictures tomorrow... all restorations are documented digitally and in this case, each folder is labeled with the date... today's folder will be 23.9.13 and each day represents two work hours (or more) so when it is done, you count the folders and multiply by two to get the total restoration time..... My 2004 Ranger had over 100 folders.
It's been fun..... almost quit though and thought several times, after failures, to simply prep the hull and prime/paint it and be done with it... and might yet after a years use just to be able to clean it easier..... My Lund hull is flat black...
Enough for today.... will go out early tomorrow and start on the other half of the hull.... Take care...
That inner transom wood looks pretty good. I think I would save it, reinforce the fibers with wood hardener, fill any spots needed with wood filler and then give it a few coats of spar varnish and it will be good for another 50 years. As to the broken brace.........me I would clean the mating surfaces really well and repair it with JB Weld. That's my take anyway.......broken too two inches of knee brace... looking for adhesive suggestions.... no aluminum welder.... will only use a 4 or 6 HP Evinrude on it so not a big deal but would like to try to fix before installing new transom wood.... PS... cork liner and to bond cork to redwood, wood glue bottle says it will work but wonder about bonding wood/cork to aluminum... do's and don'ts or just use nothing except fasteners?