Redwood

[Wayne Roberts]

$3k all in. Only because of the engine work needed. I was lucky as I didn't need to replace the cam. Just pull the heads and replace lifters and pushrods and cleanup the heads.

Very nice..........and now perfect for your boating and family needs!

 

[Wayne Roberts]

Bought it from a museum as I am not into full restorations either any more.

Beautiful.................life in 1930's and 1940's all over again and better than when new!

 

[Dennis Wilson]

The pasture where I was "given" a 1927 Chevy pickup had a lot of other items and one was a 14 foot aluminum boat that had NOT moved for years because one wheel bearing was apparently shot. This was before I needed to own a boat so I just didn't pursue it. I am sure the old guy would have said "take it if you want it" but I never asked. Instead, I spent two days before a blizzard hit to remove the 1927 from three venues on the abandoned farmstead..... Definition of a basket case..... and yes, I restored it... four years worth of restore.

 

[Dennis Wilson]

PS... you can see the boat in the background of the first picture.... I wish I had said something.

 

[Wayne Roberts]

The pasture where I was "given" a 1927 Chevy pickup had a lot of other items and one was a 14 foot aluminum boat that had NOT moved for years because one wheel bearing was apparently shot. This was before I needed to own a boat so I just didn't pursue it. I am sure the old guy would have said "take it if you want it" but I never asked. Instead, I spent two days before a blizzard hit to remove the 1927 from three venues on the abandoned farmstead..... Definition of a basket case..... and yes, I restored it... four years worth of restore.

What a treat that was .............an expensive time consuming one for sure but love those old farms..........always a treasure chest of the past hidden in those weeds. I Pheasant hunt in the Dakota's in the fall and on those old farm properties are many abandoned vehicles from the 40's and 50's plus old farm equipment just sitting in the weeds......amazing to me.........the boat in the background photos looks like an Alumacraft hull from the 50's era too.

 

[Wayne Roberts]

PS... you can see the boat in the background of the first picture.... I wish I had said something.

Yep you should have got that baby.........................!! Hindsight is 20/20.........)

 

[Dennis Wilson]

Back in those days, I didn't live near a lake... not many in SE Minnesota. We had kayaks for the river and they were a blast. Long story to the 1927... Chevy pickup and could write a book. Didn't take the boat because I needed to haul the frame on my car hauler. Two days after the pictures were taken, a major blizzard hit. I worked to get the 1927 parts in extreme cold, way below zero windchills.....

Worked on the hull this morning again and spent two hours experimenting and finally came to a conclusion. I have four buffers and it would take a long time to get a mirror finish.. and I remember reading somewhere (brochure or forum) that the Alumacraft boat was supposed to be just plain duller looking aluminum. After two hours, I found that the Brasso was by far the best product. BUT... I needed to read the directions.... the surface had been sanded with 180 and then 220..... I tried many different cleaners but I finally sprayed a two square feet section of the sanded hall, liberally, with water.... squirted on some Brasso, and got a soaking heavy duty paper towel.... and spread the Brasso around and let it sit for about five minutes... worked it a bit and then wiped off the mess.... and finally used a microfiber cloth to "buff" the area.... I am sure this is what the aluminum looked like originally.... and I am satisfied... I cleaned up to the rub rails on the side and above the rails I plan to buff the top of the sides to a mirror finish, clean the area with alcohol and apply the decals.... and learned that after they are applied and wiped down, wait a day and use clear nail polish around the perimeter (edges) of the decals... I have never done that before but that was the recommendation from the Ebay seller.... Tomorrow I start cleaning all the rivets on the "other side" of the hull with the wire wheel... and then get out the 180 orbital velcro sander... Same as all restorations... find the best way that gives the best results and go with it... This second half of the hull should only take a half day or so.

Someone painted the floor of this boat and added a sand product to prevent slipping... I am guessing this was not done at the factory but by an owner later. Could it have been done at the factory???? Regardless, I will do the same...

Maybe some pictures tomorrow... all restorations are documented digitally and in this case, each folder is labeled with the date... today's folder will be 23.9.13 and each day represents two work hours (or more) so when it is done, you count the folders and multiply by two to get the total restoration time..... My 2004 Ranger had over 100 folders.

It's been fun..... almost quit though and thought several times, after failures, to simply prep the hull and prime/paint it and be done with it... and might yet after a years use just to be able to clean it easier..... My Lund hull is flat black...

Enough for today.... will go out early tomorrow and start on the other half of the hull.... Take care...

 

[Dennis Wilson]

Quick question... pulled off the shabby outside transom plate yesterday... as I removed the wood plate I found a layer of, I think, very thin cork between the wood and the aluminum.... is this typical?

 

[Wayne Roberts]

Quick question... pulled off the shabby outside transom plate yesterday... as I removed the wood plate I found a layer of, I think, very thin cork between the wood and the aluminum.... is this typical?

Yes that was typical of the mfg as well as the sanded painted floor (usually grey)!

 

[Wayne Roberts]

Back in those days, I didn't live near a lake... not many in SE Minnesota. We had kayaks for the river and they were a blast. Long story to the 1927... Chevy pickup and could write a book. Didn't take the boat because I needed to haul the frame on my car hauler. Two days after the pictures were taken, a major blizzard hit. I worked to get the 1927 parts in extreme cold, way below zero windchills.....

Worked on the hull this morning again and spent two hours experimenting and finally came to a conclusion. I have four buffers and it would take a long time to get a mirror finish.. and I remember reading somewhere (brochure or forum) that the Alumacraft boat was supposed to be just plain duller looking aluminum. After two hours, I found that the Brasso was by far the best product. BUT... I needed to read the directions.... the surface had been sanded with 180 and then 220..... I tried many different cleaners but I finally sprayed a two square feet section of the sanded hall, liberally, with water.... squirted on some Brasso, and got a soaking heavy duty paper towel.... and spread the Brasso around and let it sit for about five minutes... worked it a bit and then wiped off the mess.... and finally used a microfiber cloth to "buff" the area.... I am sure this is what the aluminum looked like originally.... and I am satisfied... I cleaned up to the rub rails on the side and above the rails I plan to buff the top of the sides to a mirror finish, clean the area with alcohol and apply the decals.... and learned that after they are applied and wiped down, wait a day and use clear nail polish around the perimeter (edges) of the decals... I have never done that before but that was the recommendation from the Ebay seller.... Tomorrow I start cleaning all the rivets on the "other side" of the hull with the wire wheel... and then get out the 180 orbital velcro sander... Same as all restorations... find the best way that gives the best results and go with it... This second half of the hull should only take a half day or so.

Someone painted the floor of this boat and added a sand product to prevent slipping... I am guessing this was not done at the factory but by an owner later. Could it have been done at the factory???? Regardless, I will do the same...

Maybe some pictures tomorrow... all restorations are documented digitally and in this case, each folder is labeled with the date... today's folder will be 23.9.13 and each day represents two work hours (or more) so when it is done, you count the folders and multiply by two to get the total restoration time..... My 2004 Ranger had over 100 folders.

It's been fun..... almost quit though and thought several times, after failures, to simply prep the hull and prime/paint it and be done with it... and might yet after a years use just to be able to clean it easier..... My Lund hull is flat black...

Enough for today.... will go out early tomorrow and start on the other half of the hull.... Take care...

Well I admire your persistence and patience in the more mundane work of the restoration. The boats were never highly polished to shine like a coin so i would be satisfied with a satin look to the aluminum if you want to keep it natural.

 

[LDUBS]

If you want to clean it to the original bright aluminum finish, a product called Star Brite Aluminum cleaner works very well. Not too difficult and not a lot of heavy labor but following the directions and using the recommended scotch pad is important. It will look bright but not the mirror finish you are wanting. IDK, might be a good first step before you fire up the polisher.

Here is a before & after used on my hull:

 

[Dennis Wilson]

Thanks... I considered Star Brite.... and I have used this product in the past on some of my bigger boats that sat in a Mississippi River Marina each summer and come out in the fall looking awful. This boat has had a chance to build up the grunge look for many years and it was never addressed. I just needed to find the right combination to get the look I wanted and finally found it. Brasso still worked the best on the boat hull and I am still waiting for a reply from the company to tell me what kind of polish/sealer will keep it looking this way for a reasonable amount of time. Hull is almost done. Today is the last day of work on that assuming I don't want to remove dents and I might some day when I get bored. I also found out exactly what is needed to put it back to a mirror finish, but honestly, it looks kind of hokey on a 14 foot fishing boat (I did a small section). Kind of researched it though because I like to experiment and found out about "rakes" to clean the buffing pad. My mentor in 1968 showed me how to rake the pad with a large screwdriver. I looked at the pro rakes and almost laughed at the one for $50. I tried one of the DIY suggestions and put a used hack saw blade in the vise and used that. It worked perfectly. One guy used a fork. Another suggested a hole saw circular door hole cutter placed in a vise. I am sure they all work but I am not content with the original look I have on this boat... for about $2 and I am sure after using the boat next year, I will not have to sand anything but I will have to maybe use a scotch brite pad with some Brasso on it... Will finish the hull today and then get the boat right side up and work on the aluminum above the rub rails.... and then the interior wood and the metal is pretty decent on the inside but the texturized sand floor needs help and I stock that sand additive but need to find some paint. Looked to see if I had something that would work... .neutral color and the only thing I had was "yellow" and I don't think so!!! . Looked at my 12 foot Lund seats too and never realized how shabby they were... and they are plywood and "original" seats.... so I might get to them before snow flies too. Sure have learned a lot. And thanks to all who have made suggestions.

PS..... Just thinking someone might have a creative original thought about this but we put it in the water with a 4 HP Evinrude on it and it scooted quite well on the small lake.... but after going around the lake in about 20 minutes, there was about an ounce of water in the back of the boat. No, it was not the plug and suspect a seam or a rivet leak... I will used some marine sealant on it, and see four other rivets the previous owner has used to seal a leak, and also there are about five rivets that were replaced because they are much larger than the originals.... but first I have to find that minor leak and know the usual techniques..... tilt the boat, put water on the inside back and see where it leaks out on the outside, or drop the rear of the boat in a kiddy swimming pool to see where it seeps in.... but is there a way to find a leak while it is sitting in my garage on a trailer???

 

[LDUBS]

An ounce of water. I'm surprised you even noticed it. How to check whilst in the garage? Jack the tongue up. Put some water inside (not a lot of water). Find the leak. Pull the boat out of the garage. Pull the plug and drain.

 

[Dennis Wilson]

Finished the hull... it looks respectable for a 1958 boat.... took a beating over the years. I was able to turn it right side up on my trailer in the backyard by myself. The new winch worked great. The ounce of water my friend and I debated. Turns out that the day I decided to launch it at the local lake for the first time, it was very windy and the conditions were marginal.... no white caps but ALMOST.... and this is not a very deep hulled boat. So we debated if the water came in over the gunnel even. Things were pretty hectic so we just don't know. It is certainly not a big deal. I have fixed my daily driver fishing boat with the Menards marine sealant and this Alumacraft has four/five rivets that have been sealed with the same stuff only under the boat... not inside.... Also, I found about ten rivets that have been replaced and I know this because they are larger than the others in the line.... and whoever, did a good job. The aluminum above the gunnel is next and that will be buffed to a mirror shine.... and then I need to make decisions about the boat seats.... they will be replaced with new original looking seats.... but I am in no hurry to do this and will try to find some redwood/cedar to accomplish this during the winter... For now, I am done with it and need to make a cover for it ......

 

[Wayne Roberts]

Well done...............enjoy your new old boat now!

 

[Dennis Wilson]

broken too two inches of knee brace... looking for adhesive suggestions.... no aluminum welder.... will only use a 4 or 6 HP Evinrude on it so not a big deal but would like to try to fix before installing new transom wood.... PS... cork liner and to bond cork to redwood, wood glue bottle says it will work but wonder about bonding wood/cork to aluminum... do's and don'ts or just use nothing except fasteners?

 

[Wayne Roberts]

broken too two inches of knee brace... looking for adhesive suggestions.... no aluminum welder.... will only use a 4 or 6 HP Evinrude on it so not a big deal but would like to try to fix before installing new transom wood.... PS... cork liner and to bond cork to redwood, wood glue bottle says it will work but wonder about bonding wood/cork to aluminum... do's and don'ts or just use nothing except fasteners?

That inner transom wood looks pretty good. I think I would save it, reinforce the fibers with wood hardener, fill any spots needed with wood filler and then give it a few coats of spar varnish and it will be good for another 50 years. As to the broken brace.........me I would clean the mating surfaces really well and repair it with JB Weld. That's my take anyway.......

 

[Wayne Roberts]

oh and I wouldn't bother with trying to reinstall the cork liner myself........

 

[Dennis Wilson]

So cork is/was basically over-rated? For some reason pictures sometimes make things look better than they actually are. The wood is pretty shabby and could be restored, but I have access now to a bunch of cedar and since I am going to put in all new seats and inside/outside transom wood so I might as well use it... I know all about JB Weld... have used it many times and I will this time too because I don't have access to an aluminum welder and this fix isn't crucial to the integrity of the transom. Tried to use the new buffing system this morning with mixed results.... so I watched a few videos on You Tube showing the process and then researched it further... and will try again... Will have a lot of hours into this one... and one more result of all this... As the "new" boat sits beside the old Lund I realized how shabby the Lund is getting again... and will need to spend some quality time with the Lund before snow flies as well...

Take care

 

[Dennis Wilson]

PS... Just read an article about why cork was used... I thought it would be a protective kind of thing.... but it was also used to dampen vibration from the motor which would be magnified by the boat... so it was basically a sound deadener/anti vibration...... ironic thing... I used to have a roll of this in stock to create my own gaskets when there was a need to make your own gasket because the originals were out of production for older motors... but I think I might have tossed it?? But I also think I have a roll of some other gasket material that will do the same thing.. who knows... gettin' an education again.... it never ends.