RichLine model 15 project

[Smokey101]

Hi everyone, I have a newly acquired Richline 14ft that I am getting ready to use as my main fishing boat it has a 9.9 Johnson seams to run good but I just got the boat two weeks ago and have not had it in the water yet. I posted another thread about the trailer but this thread is about the boat and I have some questions I hope you guys can help me with.
I filled the boat with water today and found some leaks. The leaks are mainly along the seams that run along both sides for the entire length of the boat see pictures, I need help in choosing the best product and how to apply it.

 

[airshot]

I would thoroughly clean the inside then cover it with "gluvit", quick and easy and has a good reputation. Follow directions on the can..

 

[Smokey101]

I think I will go with gluvit on the inside yesterday I disassembled everything on the boat and found other issues, but nothing too bad, I will also need to replace the seats and the styrofoam because it is breaking down. The original wood on the transom is in great condition. My intention is to keep the boat original, not to try to make it into a bass boat.

 

[sonny1]

I am rebuilding a 14 ft modified V bottom. Your lucky my boat has several coats of paint that needs to be removed. Plan on the same keeping the boat original.

 

[airshot]

There is also a product fom the makers of " goop" that is painted on the outside bottom that has a fiber in it to sealup small holes and leaks. So far a good following from my reading...

 

[Smokey101]

I have been moving along with the project, I painted the hull below the water line, after reading a lot of posts on this sight, I used self etching primer and then sprayed rust oleum thinned with reducer and used a hardner additive. I ham happy with the results.

 

[Smokey101]

I can't seem to find any Styrofoam for flotation at a good price, I need 4in thick for this project. I can get 2 inch and double it but original is 4in, any suggestions?

 

[Smokey101]

I am rebuilding a 14 ft modified V bottom. Your lucky my boat has several coats of paint that needs to be removed. Plan on the same keeping the boat original.

I don't know if I am lucky, I paid a good amount for the boat but it turned into a lot more work than I expected

 

[1960 yellowboat]

It may sound funny but sealed tight 2 liter soda bottles work just as well as foam. [ think outside the box]

 

[mbullen]

Looks great!
I use the same recipe for painting and have been extremely pleased with the results.
For what it's worth, I use a 4:3:1 ratio over an etching primer and a cheapo Harbor Freight gun. It's a formula I stole from the agriculture world years ago.
The hardener can make cheap rustoleum into essentially a 2k product. It's an impressive result for durability on the cost/benefit scale.

Gluvit is a good choice, too. Especially if it's between seams and not just individual rivets.
(You'll also want to plan on painting over the Gluvit as it's not UV protected)
If it's individual rivets that are the culprit, I typically try to just rebuck them at first, replace if they're ovaled out - just drill to one size larger, and then Gluvit, Coat It, or West Systems GFlex, depending on the access and scenario. All are different tools for different scenarios and all work great in my experience. (be aware if you brush on the Gluvit, the brush marks will show through the over-paint, if that matters to you)

Also for what it's worth, the closed cell blue foam boards found at your local box store have been a proven homerun for a flotation alternative.
I even recently found a pile of surplus boards on craigslist.
Available in choice of thickness, does not absorb, does not fragment, and able to be cut with precision. (neat cutting hacks available on the youtube)
*Keep in mind water flow from bow to stern.
Sometimes it's better to sandwich thin cuts side-to-side running fore to aft rather than a flat piece laid down horizontally.
(provides default drain channels between the cut pieces)

Carry on, sir. It looks to me like you've got a nice rig in the making.

 

[LDUBS]

I can't think of anything wrong with using two 2" thick pieces.

 

[LDUBS]

Looks great!
I use the same recipe for painting and have been extremely pleased with the results.
For what it's worth, I use a 4:3:1 ratio over an etching primer and a cheapo Harbor Freight gun. It's a formula I stole from the agriculture world years ago.

I like what you say about the 4:3:1 ratio. Does that mean paint : thinner : hardener?

 

[Smokey101]

Looks great!
I use the same recipe for painting and have been extremely pleased with the results.
For what it's worth, I use a 4:3:1 ratio over an etching primer and a cheapo Harbor Freight gun. It's a formula I stole from the agriculture world years ago.
The hardener can make cheap rustoleum into essentially a 2k product. It's an impressive result for durability on the cost/benefit scale.

Gluvit is a good choice, too. Especially if it's between seams and not just individual rivets.
(You'll also want to plan on painting over the Gluvit as it's not UV protected)
If it's individual rivets that are the culprit, I typically try to just rebuck them at first, replace if they're ovaled out - just drill to one size larger, and then Gluvit, Coat It, or West Systems GFlex, depending on the access and scenario. All are different tools for different scenarios and all work great in my experience. (be aware if you brush on the Gluvit, the brush marks will show through the over-paint, if that matters to you)

Also for what it's worth, the closed cell blue foam boards found at your local box store have been a proven homerun for a flotation alternative.
I even recently found a pile of surplus boards on craigslist.
Available in choice of thickness, does not absorb, does not fragment, and able to be cut with precision. (neat cutting hacks available on the youtube)
*Keep in mind water flow from bow to stern.
Sometimes it's better to sandwich thin cuts side-to-side running fore to aft rather than a flat piece laid down horizontally.
(provides default drain channels between the cut pieces)

Carry on, sir. It looks to me like you've got a nice rig in the making.

Thanks for the encouragement, I also used a paint gun from harbor freight, I am not sure a bout close/open cell Styrofoam? I will need to look that up.

 

[LDUBS]

I think you will find rigid styrofoam is closed cell -- which is what you want.

 

[mbullen]

I like what you say about the 4:3:1 ratio. Does that mean paint : thinner : hardener?

It does. I use oil-based Rustolem or Magik tractor paint, acetone, and the hardener found at Tractor Supply.
The oil-based can be color blended, too.

 

[Smokey101]

It does. I use oil-based Rustolem or Magik tractor paint, acetone, and the hardener found at Tractor Supply.
The oil-based can be color blended, too.

I was real close To that: rustolem oil base paint color aluminum, Home depot, Magik reducer & Magik hardner from tractor supply. The self etching primer was from harbor freight. The mix was more like 4-2-1 because the paint was a little thin.

 

[RStewart]

I have a 14ft Richline. I like these boats. Good job on the paint work.

 

[Smokey101]

My gluvit finally came in and I sealed thé inside seams un the boat, I am confident i have addressed the major leaks. I got it back on the trailer and installed the new bench seats i made. I am rushing this project through so I can start using the boat, I plan on painting the inside after the gulvit had cured and I am sure I don't have leaks. I used 5/8 plywood for the seats to save weight. And painted both sides with rustoleum high gloss smoke grey.
Plan on mounting the engine tomorrow and doing some maintenance to it
I hope To start sea trials next weekend.

 

[Smokey101]

I took the boat Stonelick lake tonight. It is à small electric motor only lake near me. I am really liking the stability of this boat. The good news is i did not see Any leaks