Telescopic Trailer Tongue

TinBoats.net

Help Support TinBoats.net:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

ProduceMan

Well-known member
Joined
May 14, 2015
Messages
138
Reaction score
1
Location
San Diego Ca.
Finally got around to doing this. A little history - the tongue on my trailer was way too short. But I needed it short to make the transition from the street to my hillclimb of a driveway. My rear wheels were needing to get wet and the tailpipe bubbling in order to get the boat deep enough to launch. I toyed with the idea of mounting a receiver tube under the trailer frame to which a 2nd tongue would be mounted to be used at the ramp. Nixed that plan when I found a metal supply store that had what I needed. The trailer's main frame was 3" x 3' and there were no obstructions inside it. So I bought an 8' length of 2 1/2" x 2 1/2" sq 3/16" wall steel tube that fit fairly well inside the trailers frame. Bought two 5/8" x 4" receiver pins at Harbor Freight and a new coupler to fit the new tongue. Drilled holes in the trailer frame and two sets of holes in the new tongue. One for the retracted length and one for the extended length for launching. The extension yields a 5' increase in tongue length with 3' still inside the trailer main frame for rigidity. I placed one of the pins horizontal and one vertical. I may end up welding some band iron around the pins holes as well as the neck of the trailer frame for good measure. Still have to prime and paint the extension and run some grip tape along the topside of it to walk on for solo launching.
 

Attachments

  • 20170513_171347.jpg
    20170513_171347.jpg
    83.7 KB · Views: 4,718
  • 20170513_171544.jpg
    20170513_171544.jpg
    97.8 KB · Views: 4,718
  • 20170513_171738.jpg
    20170513_171738.jpg
    99.9 KB · Views: 4,718
bobberboy said:
I've been thinking of doing this but am not sure how to manage the wiring so it doesn't get pinched etc. while extending/retracting the tongue.

You would not need the wiring hooked up while launching (extracted) , only when trailering down the road (retracted) so just keep the trailer
wiring short. In any case, good job on the modification, hope that never rusts on you in there, what a bear that would be to get out.
Tim
 
bobberboy said:
I've been thinking of doing this but am not sure how to manage the wiring so it doesn't get pinched etc. while extending/retracting the tongue.
I have a removable light bar that I just take off before launching. Got away from submersible trailer lights.
 
earl60446 said:
bobberboy said:
I've been thinking of doing this but am not sure how to manage the wiring so it doesn't get pinched etc. while extending/retracting the tongue.

You would not need the wiring hooked up while launching (extracted) , only when trailering down the road (retracted) so just keep the trailer
wiring short. In any case, good job on the modification, hope that never rusts on you in there, what a bear that would be to get out.
Tim
I'm going to drill and tap the trailer main rail and put in a couple of zerk fittings to grease it up inside.
 
I'm going to drill and tap the trailer main rail and put in a couple of zerk fittings to grease it up inside.

why not just - - -
#1 - paint it with Rust-Oleum primer and paint
or #2 - slather some grease on it while it is extended ??

you would have to put a zirk fitting on all four sides for it to work properly.
plus - you would have to pump an awful lot of grease into it to coat everything evenly.

IF you do grease it up instead of paint, I bet after using it a few times and getting
grease all over you and your clothes, you will end up degreasing the extension
and going to primer and paint.

I still think it is an excellent idea !!!!

.
 
I built an all purpose trailer about 30 or more years ago to haul my motorcycles, mowers, and my small 12ft tinny. I built it with a 6 ft telescoping tongue. I used spring loaded tractor pins and a 1/2 bolt in front to keep it locked in the standard or extended positions. No matter what you do (paint or grease) do not leave the tongue stored in the trailer. I forgot one time, took a little bit of banging to get it out. Turned out to be a great idea. Trailer works like a charm. I use a couple of 4 ft extensions for the light wires, so I don't have to keep a bunch of wire on when I don't need it. I put 10ft of receiver hitch tube in that trailer to accept that tongue, man that was some heavy shyte.
 
Fantastic idea especially for those launches that are SUPER shallow pitch where you'd normally have your truck's rear axle in the water just to have the water deep enough to float the back of the boat.
 
2 questions: I am neither an engineer or a fabricator. 1. Could I create one of these extensions and have the winch post out on the extension? 2. Would the 2 pin set up provide enough strength to pull the boat on the road? Or is this just something to snap on while navigating certain launch/parking situations?
 
If the post was on the extension, wouldn't you overshoot your bunks? The tongue weight goes way light extended, it's for launching only IMHO. It works like this. Find level ground and leave the coulper hooked up, lower the jack. pull the pins. As you push the trailer back, you make adjustments to the jack so the tongue doesn't bind and pin it when lined up. If not on level ground, block the trailer wheels, drop the jack and unhook. Drive fwrd enough, extend the tongue, pin it and rehook. Nearly all the ramps by me have a level spot to go to to do this. I do pull it on the road with the 2 pin setup. The pins work on a receiver by themselves, 2 should be more than enough with a 14' boat.
 
Produceman, I'm looking for a way to add about 2 feet to boost the boat forward on the trailer. My transom hangs over the back in its current form. I was just wondering if adding a couple of feet to the front using this tongue extension idea could achieve my goal of getting the rear end of the boat supported without needed anything welded. Just considering all options.
 
On my tongue extended trailer I built I put two spring loaded pins in my trailer but I also welded a nut on the inside of the inside tube (hope that makes sense ) and then drilled a hole in the outer tube then used a half inch bolt to cinch her down tight. I did one for both positions (extended and retracted). I have hauled my harley (almost 1000 lbs) thousands of miles for more than 30 years. It has been rock solid and never a problem. I could take picts if you need me to. And yes you can put your winch post on your extension but don't weld it. Use u bolts to attach it.
 
Pmshoemaker, you really don't need to worry about tongue weight. Your boat trailer and motor doesn't look to weigh that much. Looks like you could move it around just by picking it up by your self. You look like a prime candidate for a tongue extension project.
 
I do plan on putting in a small deck in the back, but I don't foresee that adding a ton of weight. And I do have an old 25hp Johnson that I theoretically may use one day -- but like the boat, that has been sitting for 30 years, and may or may not be able to be resurrected. That would be occasional use if at all. 99% of this boat's use will be in electric-only bodies of water nearby.
 
timsmcm, if you wouldn't mind posting a pic or two, that would be great! No rush -- no funds immediately available to do anything as of yet -- although it looks like I can pick up a section for the inside channel pretty cheap. My plan is for at least as much of the inside channel resting inside the outer channel as there will be extending past it to make sure the exposed length is well supported. Is this excessive? Like you said, my boat isn't that heavy. I can move it just by picking it up for now, but would like to add some decking which will add some weight. I completely understand your bolt inside the channel system -- what a great idea to double secure that set-up!
 
Top