Hey guys Im new to the forum and was looking for some help on my jon boat project. I just got my grandpas jon boat registered and looking to use it on the rivers around me except the sides of my transom are rotted. The boat itself is a lowe big jon 14' built in 1987 so it is a tad old but its a good size for me to hunt and fish out of. I know what to do once I have the old wood plank out, but getting it out is the problem. I have no idea where to begin. My main problem is the lips on the top and the lip along the top, how do I take them off without damaging them to much or loose and support they give the boat. If anyone could give me some advice that would be great. Once this projects done Im sure ill have more questions to ask.
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Transom repair ideas
- Thread starter lgpjr49
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huntinfool
Well-known member
Take all of the screws and rivets out. Then you'll have to cut the welds on the top piece. Then you can either take out the knee brace or cut it in two. If you cut it in two, you can add a piece of aluminum to bond the two pieces together. If you remove it, you will have to drill the rivets and the re-buck some new rivets.
So how would you cut it, and how would you reattach it? From listening to people who are really experienced welders aluminum is really difficult to weld. However it looks like there is only 2 small welds on the top end pieces, and shouldnt be to hard I assume.
huntinfool
Well-known member
The transom is screwed or pop riveted in. Once those are out it will just slide out.
Yes aluminum is harder to weld than steel. You just have to have the right equipment. You should be able to find a welder locally that can do it.
Yes aluminum is harder to weld than steel. You just have to have the right equipment. You should be able to find a welder locally that can do it.
That boat shouldn't involve ANY cutting/rewelding.
First, remove the knee brace(s). Simply remove the bolts going through the transom, and drill out the rivets holding it to the hull.
Next, remove the side seat pods. Again, remove the rivets here - don't cut any sheet. It should have rivets through the side of the boat, and through the bottom of the hull.
Remove the L brackets in the corners (shown in your second picture). Again, just rivets and bolts.
Now, remove the strip on the bottom of the wood. It should be a Z shaped piece of formed sheet. Just as above, it's just riveted to the hull.
At this point, the wood should come right out - it is cut undersized enough to drop down an inch or so to clear the top cap. If it doesn't slide right out, figure out what bolt is still through the transom that you missed.
Install your new wood (or better yet, your new custom fabricated aluminum
) core, and replace everything in the reverse order.
When you remove your rivets from the hull, do NOT egg shape the hole - you want to leave it as original as possible. On the areas where it is thin sheet, to thin sheet, it is often best to sand or grind the head off the rivet (but don't gouge into the parent metal), then use a hammer and punch to knock it out. This means that there is no wandering of the drill bit into the parent metal. On the knee brace, they will likely not come out, as the rivet diameter to thickness ratio is different, so on those, I sand to flush. Then, center punch the exact center of the rivet shank, then drill.
When you go to reinstall everything, it's just a matter of reriveting the existing holes - there's plenty of info about that on this site.
First, remove the knee brace(s). Simply remove the bolts going through the transom, and drill out the rivets holding it to the hull.
Next, remove the side seat pods. Again, remove the rivets here - don't cut any sheet. It should have rivets through the side of the boat, and through the bottom of the hull.
Remove the L brackets in the corners (shown in your second picture). Again, just rivets and bolts.
Now, remove the strip on the bottom of the wood. It should be a Z shaped piece of formed sheet. Just as above, it's just riveted to the hull.
At this point, the wood should come right out - it is cut undersized enough to drop down an inch or so to clear the top cap. If it doesn't slide right out, figure out what bolt is still through the transom that you missed.
Install your new wood (or better yet, your new custom fabricated aluminum
) core, and replace everything in the reverse order. When you remove your rivets from the hull, do NOT egg shape the hole - you want to leave it as original as possible. On the areas where it is thin sheet, to thin sheet, it is often best to sand or grind the head off the rivet (but don't gouge into the parent metal), then use a hammer and punch to knock it out. This means that there is no wandering of the drill bit into the parent metal. On the knee brace, they will likely not come out, as the rivet diameter to thickness ratio is different, so on those, I sand to flush. Then, center punch the exact center of the rivet shank, then drill.
When you go to reinstall everything, it's just a matter of reriveting the existing holes - there's plenty of info about that on this site.
WebbsWelding
Active member
Fish on/ bassboy, I spent some time on your project pages / builds, website etc,, great work,, gives me something to strive for. I got my Miller 350p to quit melting tips (called you about it last month) had the arc range set wrong and you were right, acetone is your friend. Great work, trust me I know there is a lot more to it than it appears. Good job, Adam Webb
This would be my first major repair on the boat, so I have no previous experience. How would I remove the rivets without damaging the hull badly, and with that being said how would I re-install the rivets on the boat.
Carefully drill down the middle, Use a smaller drill bit than the actual hole. I have used a larger drill bit before, like a 1/4 inch and when you get through the rivet head it just comes off, you can then just punch it out.
