typed by ben's 2001 Lowe 1648M all aluminum build (UD 6/27)

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Nice the stringer spacing of the stringers worked out for battery storage. I'm considering designing in a rod locker as well. If you don't want to remove that portion of the bench you could run golf tubes thru the bench on that side. That was what I did on my 1542 build.
 
[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=331145#p331145 said:
Flatbotm » Today, 11:36[/url]"]Nice the stringer spacing of the stringers worked out for battery storage. I'm considering designing in a rod locker as well. If you don't want to remove that portion of the bench you could run golf tubes thru the bench on that side. That was what I did on my 1542 build.
thats a hell of an idea. only difficulty is the foam in the bench. id have to figure out a way to get that out to insert the tubes.
 
I cut the holes for the tubes with a hole saw, then I used a piece of thin walled tubing to core out the foam. When I couldn't push the tubing any further I'd pull it out and blow the foam out of the tubing with air from the air compressor.
 
did you mention that in your thread? i must have missed it. thats something i can work with. id rather do that than cut the bench out honestly.
 
Hello, just reading your thread. Looks like you are doing a great job.

If I could make a practical suggestion however. You should seriously consider using "battery boxes" to place those batteries in. The reason is that even though you are using padding, those batteries are prone to cracking, especially when subjected to the abuses you mentioned.

Should one of those batteries leak, your beautiful boat is going to have a major issue when the battery acid eats through it.

Also, batteries (especially marine) have a nasty tendency to explode, spewing corrosive fluids all over and potentially injuring a passenger (they tend to blow when being used so there is most often someone near them when they go off)

Battery boxes are not expensive ($10 at wallyworld) and I think they look nice as they have openings for ventilation and wiring. The more deluxe versions have a 50amp breaker built in.

I normally do not make suggestions, but this one screamed out at me and you did mention one of the reasons you are sharing your build is for tips.

Enjoy and good work!
 
I talked about it a little on this page and you can see the finished product on this page and the next one. https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=20341&hilit=flatbotm+1542&start=90

I didn't go into super detail but you can get the Idea. you won't have to lose any of the support your bench provides. When it comes to coring out the foam the thinner the tubing the better. I had a metal shop broom I ran over that I cut off. The super thin walled aluminum was like a razor.
 
[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=331167#p331167 said:
louisvillefisherman » Yesterday, 14:10[/url]"]Hello, just reading your thread. Looks like you are doing a great job.

If I could make a practical suggestion however. You should seriously consider using "battery boxes" to place those batteries in. The reason is that even though you are using padding, those batteries are prone to cracking, especially when subjected to the abuses you mentioned.

Should one of those batteries leak, your beautiful boat is going to have a major issue when the battery acid eats through it.

Also, batteries (especially marine) have a nasty tendency to explode, spewing corrosive fluids all over and potentially injuring a passenger (they tend to blow when being used so there is most often someone near them when they go off)

Battery boxes are not expensive ($10 at wallyworld) and I think they look nice as they have openings for ventilation and wiring. The more deluxe versions have a 50amp breaker built in.

I normally do not make suggestions, but this one screamed out at me and you did mention one of the reasons you are sharing your build is for tips.

Enjoy and good work!
hm okay thanks for that practical information. you sound like you are speaking from experience. i do have battery boxes from the previous owner but i had no plans to use them until your post. last night i started looking at it and in that location the batteries are not likely to be level, either. i will probably end up moving them back farther to where the hull flattens out, and go ahead and enclose them in the battery boxes in case they do spring a leak.

thanks for the heads up.
 
[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=331170#p331170 said:
Flatbotm » Yesterday, 14:15[/url]"]I talked about it a little on this page and you can see the finished product on this page and the next one. https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=20341&hilit=flatbotm+1542&start=90

I didn't go into super detail but you can get the Idea. you won't have to lose any of the support your bench provides. When it comes to coring out the foam the thinner the tubing the better. I had a metal shop broom I ran over that I cut off. The super thin walled aluminum was like a razor.
i reevaluated this last night and noticed that to get the full 7' length i would have to actually bore all the way through the front of the bench and exit the other side, like you did for your steering cable. i still like just using the golf club organizers better than cutting the bench all the way out. i think it would be easy enough to set up a jig on both sides of the bench- just have to be sure that i bore perfectly square. that will be the toughest part.
 
got my first permanent part installed in the boat last night. this piece of angle is riveted to the bulkhead on the front deck and sets the deck height. on this angle i welded two tabs so i can drop buttresses that will transfer the load of the deck from the angle down to the adjacent stringer. i just dont trust the shear strength of aluminum rivets OR the .080 aluminum around the rivets- even if theres 7 of them. 20131003_210620.jpg
 
On my rod storage the golf tubes ran completely thru the bench and into the under deck storage area. I just measured down from the top of the bench on both sides to drill my pilot holes for the hole saw.
 
[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=331274#p331274 said:
Flatbotm » 04 Oct 2013, 13:06[/url]"]On my rod storage the golf tubes ran completely thru the bench and into the under deck storage area. I just measured down from the top of the bench on both sides to drill my pilot holes for the hole saw.
gotcha. i think i might be able to order 3 and split them in half since the bench is nowhere near as deep as a golf bag.

i like that riser box you did as well. i may end up doing something similar on mine, maybe a bit taller, for the front bench on my boat to act as a step up as well as provide storage. thats the drawback to these boats- might be able to fit 3 people on board but thats 3 pfds, a throwable, rods, tackle boxes, coolers, etc :x storage is key and it has to be thoughtfully done or it ends up being a hassle for passengers!
 
I'd leave them longer if possible. One, you'll want some notice / protection on the other of the seat so they don't get snapped off and two, because the rod feels funny when it pokes out the other side. I have one I cut short and don't like it vs. the others. You rod will only go in a couple feet before the eye will catch at the opening.

The tubes will flex and give a good bit so square isn't absolutely mandatory. I'd drill your near side and dig out the Styrofoam in the direction you want the rod to lay, then push something (long screw driver, all thread etc) through to the other wall and ding it to mark where you'll drill back through (from the other side). Go 1/8" oversize, maybe more if you plan on carpeting the seat.
 
[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=331564#p331564 said:
Ranchero50 » Yesterday, 22:06[/url]"]I'd leave them longer if possible. One, you'll want some notice / protection on the other of the seat so they don't get snapped off and two, because the rod feels funny when it pokes out the other side. I have one I cut short and don't like it vs. the others. You rod will only go in a couple feet before the eye will catch at the opening.
excellent point, thats why we pay you
 
cut some of the more complicated pieces and test fit them last night. also test fit a battery box and started to imagine how that whole assembly would be secured.

the corner with 3 pieces of tube coming into it is going to be a sonofabitch to weld, but its one of the most important parts so its gotta be done right.

i plan to have unsupported areas no more than 13 inches square. thats the same size as the non-reinforced areas (no stringers or rolled beads) on the hull as it came from the manufacturer, and my deck is the same .080 thickness as the hull. it should be effective plagiarism.
20131009_210156.jpg

the funny part is going to be servicing the batteries when the day comes. i need a way to slide the batteries out so i can access them when they need to be replaced. worst case scenario is that the deck over that area will be easily removable. what i would really like to do is have a hatch that is hinged on the left side of the tube in the picture below. that would make the hatch open counterclockwise, perfect for when you need to throw something in the boat from the outside.
20131009_210219.jpg

there is going to be a ton of storage space under the front deck. should be sweet. i might even have enough room to do some custom tackle dividers, wet storage, or what have you.
 
1/8" or thicker triangle shaped gussets, lay them flat under the 'T' joints, clamp in place. Make them large enough to have 1" welds on each bottom flange. Weld the vertical joint and the visible sides of the triangles.

Or you can just tack everything and pull the top deck out to fully weld it. V out your top joints so the welds will stay recessed under the deck surface.

Lots of ways, just gotta think about it.
 
Looking good Ben. I like how you've put your stringers on the ribs themselves, and I really like the way you've put the deck area just a bit lower than the front. After looking at yours I kind of wonder if I should have done the same. Too late now for me, Let me know how you like it.
 
[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=331753#p331753 said:
Ranchero50 » Today, 09:07[/url]"]1/8" or thicker triangle shaped gussets, lay them flat under the 'T' joints, clamp in place. Make them large enough to have 1" welds on each bottom flange. Weld the vertical joint and the visible sides of the triangles.

Or you can just tack everything and pull the top deck out to fully weld it. V out your top joints so the welds will stay recessed under the deck surface.

Lots of ways, just gotta think about it.
yeah the plan is to tack the frame near the bench in place, that will be the first assembly. after that ill tack the deck frame and that will make the second assembly. the top will get seamed out of the boat, then ill drop it all back in and weld it in the boat so all my fits are good, since none of this stuff is square. the legs that go to the hull will be bolted in im thinking. ill weld some gussets on each end of a piece of tube to make an upper case I shape. those will drop down from the deck, then bolt to pieces of angle that run perpendicular to the stringers. best way i can think of since the stringers at the front of my boat are at some odd angles.

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=331755#p331755 said:
Mojo » Today, 09:41[/url]"]Looking good Ben. I like how you've put your stringers on the ribs themselves, and I really like the way you've put the deck area just a bit lower than the front. After looking at yours I kind of wonder if I should have done the same. Too late now for me, Let me know how you like it.
thanks dude i hope it turns out too. its custom made for ME and i think thats the neatest part. when you build your boat you gotta do it in a way that makes sense to you.
 
took a day off so our babysitter could go out of town. got some QT in with the boat too! :wink:

really starting to take shape. ill probably pick up my bottle next week- after that some of this stuff can start going together properly20131011_103300.jpg

20131011_134626.jpg
yes, the spacing on the right is different from the left. that was me trying to decide what will work better. i have a condition on the right hand side that requires me to have a 14" opening in the front so my foot pedal recess can drop in. ill probably just do the same opening on the left side, for the sake of symmetry20131011_140841.jpg
 
[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=331878#p331878 said:
Country Dave » Today, 16:35[/url]"]Hey man looking good.................... =D>
thanks dave. your boat is immaculate. i love everything about it.
 

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