v boat trailer problem?

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Insanity

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Apr 29, 2014
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Location
Clarksville Tennesse
First off yes I need a paint job. Lol. There's too many coats on it.
But to keep the paint on the keel I need to fix this stupid trailer. It's hitting the frame darn near ever time I load.
I'd assum that rear roller between the bunks needs to come up to the bottom of the boat. But it will still hit the frame on some ramps I use.
I want one of those one foot wide v rollers rite at the frame edge to aim at when loading.
But still may need another regular one between it and the one that's just out of the frame of the pic to the right. For deep water.
Is that my best option?
Does someone have a better design that would work on my trailer. Maybe a pic..
I got tired of looking at the trailer pics for one with the cross frame like mine it's a tilt frame.
Money is tight so il just fab my brackets myself.
 

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I got this trailer several years ago. Very heavy duty for a 18' boat.
I cut it up to fit my 14' V-Hull and have been very pleased with it.

The side bunks are 2x6" P/T and the center bunk is the same with
1x2" PT firing strips and regular indoor/outdoor carpet stapled over it.

I put regular bearing grease down the center rail where the boat's keel rests
to ease the sliding on and off. Very easy for one person to launch and recover the boat
with only the bunks and no rollers. I back the trailer into the water til the water is up to
the tops of the tires and the boat just floats off or onto the trailer very easily.
I very rarely put out more than a foot of winch rope.
I have only used this type of trailer with the same style center board and side bunks for this
type of boat since 1959. So this design works for me, with a fairly light V-Hull.
If you decide to use this design, adjust everything to fit your boat accordingly.
I just gave the red/white boat to my brother (we take turns, as it is our family heirloom) and If I
get another V-Hull, I will probably put side bunks higher up so it will be easier to recover
on windy days.
good luck !!



disclaimer:
yes, I used cheap indoor/outdoor carpet. (it has lasted 6 years so far)
and yes, I used pressure treated lumber. and no, there is no corrosion.
and yes, I used regular staples, not stainless, to hold the carpet down. (it has lasted 6 years so far)
and yes, I need to move the lights up more. Will do that when I get new LED lights.
and yes, I have been told that the grease will melt the boat's keel paint. (it has lasted 6 years so far)
and yes, I have bearing buddys that are always packed tight with marine grease.
 

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Thank you Jhonny! I think that's what il do. I Was trying to think of a way to make a v out of two x fours. But hadn't considered running them the full length of the trailer. That would work better then anything.

I use what ever bolts and screws I can find also. Even used drywall screws in my decking. :mrgreen:
 
boat keel board.png
One afterthought - if you walk up and down the board handling your boat,
It would be a good idea to go with a wider center board - 2x10" or add another
separate board to the side just to walk on. And carpet it to match.
It is difficult to walk on the keel support strips.








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That's a good idea to. I have fell off my tubing frame and got my feet wet more times then I can count. My balance sucks.
I Couldn't think of anything that would luck good to stand on. But that will be fine.
 
You could also try moving your bunks inward. Looks like you only have two and they are at the very edge of the boat.
 

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