14' Aluminum battery box

[mudpuppy77]

I am a newbie to boats in general and even more so to modifications. I am almost done with my mod on a 14" Crestliner V hull. I have searched this site and others over and over but cannot quite find the answer I am looking for so I am going to ask you all for ideas.
I am planning on mounting a trolling motor on the bow and store the battery under the deck in one of the compartments.

Any ideas on how I would mount and secure the battery to the aluminum hull?
I plan to use a battery box but I am not sure just screwing the box to the stringers (not sure of correct term) will hold it in place in the long run. There isn't much space between the top of the stringer and the actual hull, maybe a 1/2 inch.

I have thought about gluing PVC or some sort of plastic platform to hull and then bolting the battery box to that. Still not sold on that either. I would like to do this right the 1st time so please share any ideas you may have.

Thanks!

 

[bobberboy]

Is the cavity under the hatch cover wide open? I'm not sure I'm on the right track here but maybe you could cut 2 plywood gussets that fit into the ribs at the bottom. The gussets, glued to the rib and reinforced with an aluminum flat bar that is screwed to the gusset and riveted into the rib should make a solid base to build a floor to attach the battery box to...

 

[mudpuppy77]

Wow Bobberboy. That is a heck of a diagram! That looks like a great solution but here are some of my hurdles.

1. There is a 2x4 "brace" that splits the two compartments/deck in half. It rests on the ribs and was done to give the deck more support in the middle incase anyone were to step there. The brace is screwed to the deck but the deck is removeable so nothing is permanent. Both sides of the center brace are open down to the hull. I could remove the brace if need be and find another way to brace it.
2. I have no experience with riveting.

I did make wooden gussets for the back floor so I am comfortable doing that. If there were an option aside from riveting the aluminum, I think I may have what I am looking for.

 

[wis bang]

If the central 2x4 sits across the top of the ribs you could make two pieces of wood, roughly 1/2 of those in Bobberboy's diagram to sit on top of the ribs on that side and secure them w/ screws through the the 2x4 into their ends & then add a small plywood platform on top of them making a floor for the battery to sit on.

You could add a small scrap of ply to the bottom outboard end of the plywood to keep the supports spaced and screwing the plywood into the two wooden pieces would stiffen the whole thing.

You could even have the plywood platform extend over top the central 2x4 so a few screws there would secure the plywood on 3 sides making it real strong.

 

[bobberboy]

If the central 2x4 sits across the top of the ribs you could make two pieces of wood, roughly 1/2 of those in Bobberboy's diagram to sit on top of the ribs on that side and secure them w/ screws through the the 2x4 into their ends & then add a small plywood platform on top of them making a floor for the battery to sit on.

You could add a small scrap of ply to the bottom outboard end of the plywood to keep the supports spaced and screwing the plywood into the two wooden pieces would stiffen the whole thing.

You could even have the plywood platform extend over top the central 2x4 so a few screws there would secure the plywood on 3 sides making it real strong.

These are all good ideas to modify the above. Is there enough room from the centerline to the hull to fit the battery on one side and not hit the deck above? If so do what wis bang suggests. It'll work fine and the 2x4 will add to the strength of the unit. Riveting couldn't be easier. A pop rivet gun and some rivets are pretty cheap and you'll find lots of uses for one once you own one. I don't know how critical it is, but some rivets are all aluminum and some have a steel pin in the center. I use all aluminum. Go to your hardware store and ask the person there to explain. It's as easy as a staple gun.