14ft V modification started by unskilled labor

[BoWins]

Okay, I have been a peeping tom to the board for quite some time now and am finally ready to take the step to finish my boat. I will try to talk boat take, but at first I will make it simple.

I have: :
**14ft long V (I don’t know “Mod V”, “Semi V” or whatever) riveted boat
**48” wide on the hull (floor)
**60” widest point at top of gunwale – 56.5” at stern
**18” deep (from the floor to top of gunwale)
**Made by Burgess based on a plate (no other plate with a serial number, specs, or capacities is on the boat)
**7.5hp Game fisher (Sears), 1985 (I think) that I have never had in the water, but it does run and is easy to crank.

I will tell you what I am planning to do, but based on everything I read, those plans will change. Then I will ask my beginning questions.

I plan on:
1. Stripping the boat
2. Repairing the front where it was smashed in a little and replace bad rivets
3. Putting GluvIt on the rivets and seams only on the OUTSIDE BOTTOM.
4. Putting SteelFlex on the bottom of the boat (without Teflon as I have read on other posts)
5. Priming (using etching primer) and painting from the bottom to the top of the gunwale on the outside and only down 6”+/- on the inside. I will do this because I will cover the rest up.
6. Remove the middle bench (or cut a walk way)
7. Make 2 decks – one from the front to the back of the front bench and the other from the gunwale to the front of the back bench.
8. Make 2 long boxes on both sides for storage and rods.

My questions? I am going to just give questions based on what part of the project, but I have to know how these decisions will affect other portions of the project.

Stripping:
I planned on using some sort of paint stripper, but you have to use in when the temp is above 56 degrees. Since I am doing this outside, I decided to use a wire cup brush on my angle grinder. Well after doing about 25% of the bottom, my grinder is burned up and the wire cup is almost gone.

1. What should I do?
a. Buy another angle grinder and cup brush and keep going (I don’t know how much grinding I can stand for)
b. Buy liquid stripper and scrape most of the paint off the use scotch brite
c. Knock off the lose stuff only then prime and paint
d. Your “nifty idea” goes here.
Front Damage
The front has been smashed in then knocked back out. It was coated heavily with silicone and does not seam to leak. I realize that I am not going to be able to paint over the silicone so:
1. How do I remove the silicone? It is squished in every crevice.
2. What is the best way to repair the aluminum? It doesn’t have to look brand new. I was thinking possibly taking a flat sheet and bending it over the front.


Tinboats here I come. . .

 

[270Handiman]

Ewwww...........................hours of fun there!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I would try using stripper to remove the bulk of the paint. Do a search on here for striping. One of the suggestions you will find is to use kitchen plastic wrap over the stripper when it is applied to keep it from drying out as quickly. You will probably need another grinder anyway, but this should save you some time.

270

 

[Nussy]

I'd go to Harbor Freight and buy the 4 1/2 inch grinder they have for like $17.00 Then get the multipack of brushes for $9.95 (Depending on how much boat you have you may need 2-5 wheels). I personally like the round ones in the multi-pack over the cup brush. They make just quicker work of the stripping than the cup brush but be careful with new brushes as they usually have some stragglers that can cause deeper marks.

I'd do the whole boat with with the wheel and skip any stripper. Even if you use stripper you going to have to go over it with something like a wheel to clean it up anyway. This is the most time consuming part of the build so be patient. The effort you put in hear pays off in the final product.

Then fix all the rivets, etc. If you Steelflex the bottom, You shouldn't need the Gluvit. If you still want to use it, I would do it on the inside as extra protection. I would not prime where you plan to Steelflex. According to Fasco, just rough it up(they suggest 60 grit).....which the brush should do well enough. I like to spray the etching primer where you plan to paint before Steelflexing. Then I don't have to tape the area off as much. Then steelflex the areas you want. If you plan to roll and tip for your final paint job, do that after the steelflex(If you spray it you can do that before or after the Steelflex).

Hope that helps. I was in your shoes about 6 months ago and it can be a little intimidating, but it's really pretty easy and fun once you start doing it.

 

[RStewart]

dude, your boat is identical to mine. and welcome aboard. i used a drill with both a round and a cup brush. the paint on my boat had to be 1/16th in thick. took lots of time but got it done. like was already said, if you use steelflex then you dont need glovit.

 

[BoWins]

stew6371,

I have read your post all over and "thought" I had looked at EVERY modification on this board. Your are right, we do have the exact same boat. I can't believe I have not seen your modification. How about that green 2" thick army paint. WOW.

After looking at your modification I have a couple of questions. My plans are very similar to yours so let me ask some questions.
1. Do you know the weight capacity and horsepower rating of this boat?
2. The decks I have planned are exactly like yours (seat high on both front and reat with a floor - though I planned on putting a small gunwale high deck on the bow to mount the trolling motor). How stable in the water is your set up?
3. I see you removed the middle seat. I was afraid to do that and was going to just cut a walkway in the seat and make a brace between the two half seats to give it support. Are you seeing any flex from where you removed the seat?
4. Is there any styrofoam in the seats? If so, did you add any anywhere?

Also question to all. . .
SteelFlex vs Gluvit. I have read if you need to leak proof, use Gluvit. But for UV protection, Gluvit needs to be painted. Why I wanted to use Gluvit first is because of this link:
https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=10469&p=110143&hilit=steelflex#p110143

What do you think?

Too sick to do any more ginding last night. I hate grinding.

 

[nbaffaro]

I'm going to throw a vote out for

D. have it media blasted

It might cost you some money to get it done. But it will be the easiest way to get it done. Turn around time will be better. You'll be fishing sooner. By the time your done with this boat, the price of media blasting won't effect the total too much.

 

[270Handiman]

I think the Steelflex will be fine. You just need to check your rivets before applying it to see if any need to be re-bucked.

270

 

[damifinowfish]

If you are going to use harbor freight power tools buy the extra warranty.

That kinda looks like the boat I'm getting ready to do after this nasty storm is over.

Damifinow fish

 

[RStewart]

Yeah that paint was thick. i probably have 20 hrs or so in grinding it off.

1.I dont know capacity or hp limit. my boat doesnt have a capacity plate or a h.i.n. plate. my tittle say 10 hp though.
2. I as well thought about a deck to mount tm. Instead I cut a piece of wood that has the same shape as the aluminum nose plate and bolted the tm to it through the nose plate. The boat is very stable. Two people can stand and fish with no problems. I dont think I could capsize the boat, I would fall in before the boat went all the way over. I weigh 300 lbs and I have a buddy thats 350 or so and we dont have any issues.
3.The bench was already gone when I got the boat but I would have removed it anyway. No flexing. The decks and the floor really help reinforce it.
4. The front bench still has styrofoam in it. I meant to put it back in the rear also, just forgot.
If you have anymore questions fire away. I dont know if my mod section explains everything very clear.

 

[beetlespin]

I'm going to throw a vote out for

D. have it media blasted

It might cost you some money to get it done. But it will be the easiest way to get it done. Turn around time will be better. You'll be fishing sooner. By the time your done with this boat, the price of media blasting won't effect the total too much.

Agreed....

If you want to use the boat this spring