1980 16' Sea Nymph Traveler-Rebirth of Tin 2

[Nussy]

Anybody have any recommendations on what type of wood I should use to re-build the transom?

Exterior grade ply with epoxy/sealer applied. Won't have to worry about it for another 20+ years probably.

By exterior grade, do you mean "treated"? If so I thought treated was bad for use on boat? Do you think you could just screw a couple sheets together to get to the necessary thickness? Then cover with the epoxy?

 

[Brine]

By exterior grade, do you mean "treated"? If so I thought treated was bad for use on boat? Do you think you could just screw a couple sheets together to get to the necessary thickness? Then cover with the epoxy?

No, not treated. Exterior grade plywood uses waterproof glue. Yes, I think you could screw the sheets together and then epoxy them together. The edges, and anywhere you drill a hole seem to be the post prone to water absorption.

 

[Nussy]

By exterior grade, do you mean "treated"? If so I thought treated was bad for use on boat? Do you think you could just screw a couple sheets together to get to the necessary thickness? Then cover with the epoxy?

No, not treated. Exterior grade plywood uses waterproof glue. Yes, I think you could screw the sheets together and then epoxy them together. The edges, and anywhere you drill a hole seem to be the post prone to water absorption.

OK thanks for the clarification.

 

[Rat]

When laminating your transom pieces use epoxy glue for the laminations, IOW glue the pieces together with epoxy glue (epoxy thickened with wood flour). You can use screws to hold it together temporarily, or you can just use weights; I use car/boat batteries. Once the epoxy sets you don't need the screws, just take them out and fill the holes and seal all edges as noted above.

 

[Nussy]

One question. Would the exterior plywood be better than a solid 2x12?

 

[Nussy]

I bought this boat without running the motor which I knew I should not have done, but I thought it was a great deal even if the motor didn't work, so it didn't matter at the time. I'm now at a point where I need to know if the motor works so I spent some time trying to get the motor to work last night. Ugh! The gas line leaked so I ordered a new one last week. The gas line I ordered came and the bulb was installed backwards so it wouldn't pump gas up to the engine. Didn't have the hose clamps to fix it so I tried to use the old line to get it running. Took a look at the plugs and they seamed to be clean. Used new gas. Motor turns over but just won't fire up. I can't really tell if it's getting gas. Should I try spraying some starter fluid in the carb?

I'm not sure what to try next. I don't know engines very well, so I might have to take to a repair shop.

Any ideas on where to start?

 

[Rodnocker]

I don't know a lot about outboard motors, but I've worked on quite a few small engines. First thing I would do is make sure you have spark. Pull the spark plug wire and put it close, but not quite touching, the motor block (exposed metal area of the motor). Try to crank the motor and see if you have a spark jump from the plug wire to the motor. If you have spark, then put that back on the spark plug.

I'm guessing this is a 2 stroke motor?
I would not use starter fluid on a 2 stroke as there is no lubrication. Use some of your mixed fuel in a spray bottle and just spray a couple of mists into the carb and try cranking.

 

[Rat]

One question. Would the exterior plywood be better than a solid 2x12?

Yes, laminations are stronger than a solid piece of wood.

 

[Brine]

and there are quite a few people here with outboard experience....I'm not one of them tho.

Im guessing you will get you some sound advice on what to do next prior to you having to take it to someone.

 

[Rat]

I bought this boat without running the motor which I knew I should not have done, but I thought it was a great deal even if the motor didn't work, so it didn't matter at the time. I'm now at a point where I need to know if the motor works so I spent some time trying to get the motor to work last night. Ugh! The gas line leaked so I ordered a new one last week. The gas line I ordered came and the bulb was installed backwards so it wouldn't pump gas up to the engine. Didn't have the hose clamps to fix it so I tried to use the old line to get it running. Took a look at the plugs and they seamed to be clean. Used new gas. Motor turns over but just won't fire up. I can't really tell if it's getting gas. Should I try spraying some starter fluid in the carb?

I'm not sure what to try next. I don't know engines very well, so I might have to take to a repair shop.

Any ideas on where to start?

Get a repair manual for your motor.

The first thing I would do is a compression test, you want them to be within 10% of each other and around 90 PSI; although I have an older model 5 HP that only has about 70 PSI and she runs fine. The compression test will tell you if it is even worth putting money into.

if it passes the compression test then check for spark with a spark tester. If it fails you will need to rebuild the ignition system, proly take about 3 hours, if it passes move to the fuel system.

At the minimum I would rebuild the carb, and replace the fuel lines, and then do a link and sync.

Replace the water pump impeller.

Put new lower unit lube.

You can borrow the compression tester and spark tester from your local autoparts store and, if you need to change the ignition system, you will need a strap wrench to remove the flywheel, which you can also borrow from the same place.

If you need to replace the ignition system, rebuild the carb, install a new impeller and add new lower unit oil; you can proly do all this for less than $200 and a full day of your time.

I did all this to my engine for the first time and it only required about 6 hours and a minimum of parts, all available online; and I had never even changed a sparkplug in a boat motor before. So, if I can do it, you can do it!

 

[cubanredneck]

I don't know a lot about outboard motors, but I've worked on quite a few small engines. First thing I would do is make sure you have spark. Pull the spark plug wire and put it close, but not quite touching, the motor block (exposed metal area of the motor). Try to crank the motor and see if you have a spark jump from the plug wire to the motor. If you have spark, then put that back on the spark plug.

I'm guessing this is a 2 stroke motor?
I would not use starter fluid on a 2 stroke as there is no lubrication. Use some of your mixed fuel in a spray bottle and just spray a couple of mists into the carb and try cranking.

you can use starting fluid with top end lubrication in it go to NAPA they have it. I would check for spark, compression, and fuel if all check out it should crank

 

[Nussy]

Well today was a great day. After everything went wrong the other night trying to get it started, today was all progress. I was able to fix the gas line and get it hooked up so it pushed the gas the correct direction. After talking to a co-worker he suggested to make sure the battery was fully charged, otherwise there may not be enough power to generate a spark. When I pulled the battery I notice the guy had a deep cycle battery hooked up. I switched it out with a regular battery, changed the plugs and it started up. Ran a little rough but came around. Got it winterized and changed the lower unit fluid. It came out black like oil. Is that normal? The stuff I changed it with was more of a yellow color. Does it come in different colors, from different manufacturers?

I had a clamshell on the motor with a hose running and there was no water stream spitting out anywhere and I couldn't find a spot where it should come out of. Does anyone know if that's just the way a 1979 Chrysler 45 HP works? It had me a little concerned. Thought maybe the impeller was shot.

I removed the motor, Throttle and Ignition Switch. Then I moved on to tearing out the transom. Pulled all the screws and removed a metal cover. It was totally dust!!! Glad I decided to take that apart. Here's what's left of it.


Then I moved on to removing the console and and one other compartment. I pretty much have everything stripped down at this point. Here's a couple pics.



Hopefully tomorrow, I'll get it power washed, and leak tested, and start work on the new transom. Got the Steeflex ordered. Decided to go with the regular version in Gray this time around. Thinking Green for the upper half since the guy I bought it from had 2 brand new green seats, and to camo seats on the pedistals.

My wife is being induced Monday.... So a new baby might put the boat on the back burner for a little while.....for good reason. Better get a lot done tomorrow.

 

[Nussy]

Couple Questions.

1. I was thinking about using Fiberglass resin for the transom since I can't find any decent epoxy locally. Any thoughts?
2. I have a few hole in the console and some of the top aluminum pieces. I plan to paint everything and thought about filling them. I'm looking for suggestions on what to use to fill them. The biggest hole is about the size of a nickel, but most are screw holes. I thought about using Bondo(the autobody stuff) but I've never worked with it. Anybody have any suggestions?

 

[Rat]

Couple Questions.

1. I was thinking about using Fiberglass resin for the transom since I can't find any decent epoxy locally. Any thoughts?
2. I have a few hole in the console and some of the top aluminum pieces. I plan to paint everything and thought about filling them. I'm looking for suggestions on what to use to fill them. The biggest hole is about the size of a nickel, but most are screw holes. I thought about using Bondo(the autobody stuff) but I've never worked with it. Anybody have any suggestions?

Use good Epoxy, if you can't find it locally buy it Here: (3 Quart Kit). This is the link for the 3 quart kit for < $50, proly all you need. I am not sure what you mean by "fiberglass epoxy" since fiberglass if the matt and epoxy (or Polyester {Bondo}, or vinylester) is the resin.

For filling the holes I would use a filler rod like HTS 2000 or similar, especially if you want them to be flush; otherwise you could use pop rivets. I wouldn't use any type of Resin filler unless you can get a backing under the hole, by the time you sand it flush it will be weak. You may be able to flute the holes and use filler, I have always wanted to try this but never have, and I don't know anyone who has either.

 

[Nussy]

Well, got a little done this weekend. Cut and glued the transom, then gave it a coat of poly. Probably throw a second coat on later today.


Removed the transom supports from the boat, so I could fit the new transom it. Removed the stickers, glue, etc on a butch of the boat. Wire brushed the transom. There was some pitting in it that I attribute to the transom having been treated plywood. Went over that with some JB Weld, just to fill in the hole and try tp prevent it from getting worse.


There was a panel on the bow that had a piece of carpet in it. Not sure why but I hated the way it looked. Decided to remove it and fill in all the holes with Bondo. Will sand it all smoot and paint it. Hopefully it turns out OK. If not, I can always put the carpet piece back in.



Once I get the transom back in. I'll get the boat off the trailer and flipped so I can sand, steelflex, and paint it. Trying to decide whether to sand, repaint, and reboard the trailer before painting the boat or after completed. Leaning toward doing that next so that I don't have to take the boat of the trailer again.

 

[JBoze]

Looking forward to seeing this one completed.

 

[Waterwings]

Looking forward to seeing this one completed.

Ditto on that! Gonna be a nice rig!

 

[Doug]

Looks like this one is coming along well. Keep charging.

 

[Nussy]

Well the heater went out in the garage and won't be fixed until tomorrow so I decided to start working on the trailer. Spent about 5-6 hours with a grinder and a wire wheel trying to remove all the paint and rust. For those of you looking to take on this project my only advice is to get an aggressive wound strand cup brush and wound strand wheel. It will save you a lot of time from the single strand brushes. The wheel seemed to work better but you need to cup brush to get into some tight areas.


The plan for today is to get everything sanded. Hopefully including the boat. That way I can get all the dust out and focus on painting once I get heat back tomorrow. It's only supposed to be 15 degrees today so hopefully the garage will stay tolerable. The goal is to get the trailer primed and painted by the end of the weekend. Using Rustoleum Clean Metal Primer and Rustoleum Paint.

If things go well I might even get the etching primer and a coat a regular primer on the boat.

 

[Nussy]

Been busy the last couple days. Yesterday I got the transom installed then hit the inside and outside of the boat with a wire wheel. Done grinding.....thank god. I think I have about 10-12 hours grinding the boat and trailer with a wire wheel. I forgot pics of the transom, but I'll get some once I get the boat flipped back over. I decided to go with Stainless Bolts over the Rivets. Seemes to work well. Just it them with 5200 when I installed them.



Today I was able to get a spray coat of etching primer on the upper half of the boat where I plan to paint.


Then I primed the trailer. Used Rustoleum Clean Metal.....and I hate it. If I had to do it over it would be all spray cans.. Hopefully the paint goes on better than the primer did.


After that I decided to get the Steelflex on the bottom half of the boat. I definitely learned some things this time around with the steelflex. This time I used the regular version and put it on a lot thinner. That was definitely the way to go. I will probably put a second coat on some of the light spots. It took 10 foam rollers to apply it, because the stuff is so thick. But I didn't get the sagging on the sides that I had on my last build. That's one benefit of the regular Steelflex over the 2000....you can put on multiple coats. Thanks Nick Jones for your posts on using multiple thin coats!!! I also cranked up the heater in the garage to 80 so this stuff should cure a bit faster. I have plenty leftover for a complete second coat if needed.