1982 Johnson 15: no start

[CMOS]

Carb is OFF.

I saw no indication of any obstructions to the low and high speed jets. I pulled both of the brass orifices, the idle needle, and sprayed all of the asseccible passages with carb cleaner.

Note - the fuel bowl was FULL when I removed it.

A question: when I first dug into this motor (last fall) I estimate that it has sat for about 10 years with nothing being done to it. The carb, upon my initial cleaning and kit install, was gummed up like you wouldn't believe. I took quite some time to get it cleaned up. The only thing I did not do to the carb at that time was to pull the 3 lead plugs shown in the picture below.

Should I pull these and clean this passage before re-installing the carb, or will diligent spraying do the job? Thoughts?

Thanks for any help.

CMOS

 

[perchjerker]

I would not remove the ball plugs. They are installed during manufacturing to plug up holes in the carb body from drilling the passages as the drill must have a place to enter the casting in order to machine the passage. they are not designed to be removed.

I would soak the carb body in a tank of carb soak cleaner designed for the that purpose then use a piece of tag wire to clean all the passages followed by compressed air. Verify all the passages are clean You should be able to find this at a well stocked auto parts store.

 

[CMOS]

UPDATE Saturday 4-2-16:

Running.

I had to fully advance the throttle to get her to start the first time. Got the slow speed screw adjusted reasonably well (without a real lake run). Warm starts are now 1-pull.

Pee-hole is peeing very well.

Please take a look at the 2 attached pictures. Is it normal for water to be coming out of the area where I have drawn the arrow?

CMOS

 

[Fire1386]

How much pressure is on your hose? I believe you can blow seals if to much pressure going in.

 

[CMOS]

I had only a very small volume running through the hose.

CMOS

 

[perchjerker]

number one your garden hose pressure is not going to hurt the seals in the motor

number two is I would just take it to the lake and see how it does

some of that of what you are seeing could be normal, I am not familiar with that particular motor but have been around enough of them to know that if it does not overheat (or run hot) on the water then you are fine

my bet is you are fine.

 

[CMOS]

PJ,

That's the plan - tomorrow!

I was able to easily touch the head the whole time it was running.


CMOS

 

[Fire1386]

Good luck, hopefully it does well on the water for you.....

Perchjerker, I was just going off of this from WestMarines outboard motorcare......https://www.westmarine.com/WestAdvisor/DIY-Outboard-Motor-Care. I don't know the amount of pressure it would take to blow them, but I know our city has been upgrading systems for a while and switching over to higher pressure system and it is surprising the increase it has been making on the improved areas of our town.....

 

[perchjerker]

Fire-

I understand what they are saying but in the real world that would take a perfect seal between the flush muffs and the lower unit to create the kind of pressure they are talking about. Every flush muff I have ever used leaks when using full pressure from the hose bib on the house. And the motor would never use the volume of water supplied from the garden hose anyway so there is no reason to turn it up full blast

Thats why I turn it down, not because I am afraid its going to blow a seal

but I guess anything is possible, erring on the side of caution is never a bad thing

 

[CMOS]

Lake Test - FAIL.

Didn't even get it off the trailer.

1. When pumping the fuel primer bulb - fuel is pouring out of the lower cowling. So, float is stuck open.
2. The recoil starter is toast, again. The recoil spring pulled into the lower cup, again. (yes, I have the proper length cord).


I'm really frustrated with the motor right now, and I have a slightly disappointed 6 year old daughter that didn't get to "go for a boat ride".

CMOS #-o

 

[perchjerker]

man sorry to hear that!!

I dont blame you for being frustrated.

 

[wmk0002]

Sorry for your troubles!

I just bought an '82 Evinrude 9.9 hp long shaft and an '82 Evinrude 15 hp short shaft this weekend...so, aside from the johnson/evinrude branding differences, we have very similar motors. Maybe I can be of some help in the near future once I familiarize myself with them a little more.

 

[Charger25]

CMOS, hang in there you will get it running

 

[wmk0002]

Are you sure the float is stuck open or not set to the right height and it is not a fuel leak elsewhere? Either should be a fairly simple fix at home and you can test it right before you leave for the ramp in the driveway on muffs or in a barrel.

As to the starter failing ...these are pretty easy to rope start by wrapping a lose rope around the flywheel. The 15 hp I just bought has a stripped hole where the recoil starter mounts so it also has to be started by this method until I can fix it. The trick is to make sure you lightly pull on it until it has that little bit of extra resistance telling you that one cylinder is at top dead center. Then just give it a crisp yank like you would with the recoil starter rope.

 

[perchjerker]

I have another thought on the float, something that has happened to me

One time, I started my motor in a bucket the day before we went fishing. Started perfectly like it always does

We get to the lake the next day, went to pull start it, it would not even turn over, like it was locked up.

Take it back to the cabin, thinking about it all the way back. It dawned on me that I had closed the tank vent the day before, and it was warm out. And the fuel line was still connected to the motor

What happened was the pressure built up in the tank must have been enough to overcome the needle and seat. I took the plugs out, pulled the rope and gas came squirting out both holes! So the motor was locked up from being full of gas. I cleared it out, and it started up fine.

the vent was open when I tried starting it at the lake, but the damage was already done and I did not realize it.

Maybe you have a similar problem? Was your tank vent closed for a period of time in the hot sun with the fuel line connected to the motor?

just a thought. Also could be that while trailering to the lake the float bounced around and hung open. Was the bulb pumped up wile you were trailering? this can also cause issues

 

[JMichael]

Good luck, hopefully it does well on the water for you.....

Perchjerker, I was just going off of this from WestMarines outboard motorcare......https://www.westmarine.com/WestAdvisor/DIY-Outboard-Motor-Care. I don't know the amount of pressure it would take to blow them, but I know our city has been upgrading systems for a while and switching over to higher pressure system and it is surprising the increase it has been making on the improved areas of our town.....

I lived in the north Atlanta area in the late 80's. I hadn't been in my new home very long when I started blowing up garden hoses left and right. I tried several different ones until one day at Home Depot I found a hose guaranteed not to burst. I happily paid the price for it thinking I'd be back in a month or two for a free replacement. Well it didn't blow it, but it sure stretched the crap out of it. If I turned the faucet on with a closed spray nozzle on the other end and let it sit for an hour or so, the hose resembled one of those pythons that had just eaten a full meal. LoL Several months later one of my friends that knew the problems I was having showed up with a pressure gauged rigged to go on a water faucet. We hooked it up and the thing showed 110 psi. At that point I started checking out my plumbing and found that the front outside faucet was fed straight from the meter while the rest of the houses plumbing was regulated down to 55 psi via a regulator in the line. I believe that one would have been capable of blowing some seals if muffs could contain it. LoL

 

[CMOS]

I have another thought on the float, something that has happened to me

One time, I started my motor in a bucket the day before we went fishing. Started perfectly like it always does

We get to the lake the next day, went to pull start it, it would not even turn over, like it was locked up.

Take it back to the cabin, thinking about it all the way back. It dawned on me that I had closed the tank vent the day before, and it was warm out. And the fuel line was still connected to the motor

What happened was the pressure built up in the tank must have been enough to overcome the needle and seat. I took the plugs out, pulled the rope and gas came squirting out both holes! So the motor was locked up from being full of gas. I cleared it out, and it started up fine.

the vent was open when I tried starting it at the lake, but the damage was already done and I did not realize it.

Maybe you have a similar problem? Was your tank vent closed for a period of time in the hot sun with the fuel line connected to the motor?

just a thought. Also could be that while trailering to the lake the float bounced around and hung open. Was the bulb pumped up wile you were trailering? this can also cause issues

I did have the fuel tank vent open.

My thoughts on the float: I re-read some info on LeeRoy's Ramblings regarding carb work. He stated that there are 2 adjustments to the float: one for when it closes, and the other for how far it opens (or drops down in literal terms). I did not adjust the latter, so maybe my float is dropping down too low and getting stuck. I will adjust this up a bit and see if that helps. The carb issue does not bother me. This carb is really simple, even for me. :wink: What bothers is that **** recoil starter. That thing is a PIA, and I've rebuilt the darn thing 3 times. It's not easy.

I just need a little break before I dive back into it. Good thing the 1966 9.5 HP is running like a scalded dog!


CMOS

 

[Sinkingfast]

Use minimum initial spring tension. My factory manual says when rope is fully extended one can pull the spring end 1/2 inch out further past the spring cup. You might make a reinforcement plate..3/4 square by 1/16inch thick with a slot for the spring.

Before I install a rebuilt carb I turn it upside down and make sure the float needle has closed.

 

[wmk0002]

I did have the fuel tank vent open.

My thoughts on the float: I re-read some info on LeeRoy's Ramblings regarding carb work. He stated that there are 2 adjustments to the float: one for when it closes, and the other for how far it opens (or drops down in literal terms). I did not adjust the latter, so maybe my float is dropping down too low and getting stuck. I will adjust this up a bit and see if that helps. The carb issue does not bother me. This carb is really simple, even for me. :wink: What bothers is that **** recoil starter. That thing is a PIA, and I've rebuilt the darn thing 3 times. It's not easy.

I just need a little break before I dive back into it. Good thing the 1966 9.5 HP is running like a scalded dog!


CMOS

Man, I must be copying you...not only did I just buy those 2 1982 models, but I also bought a 67 9.5hp like you have as well! Mine runs out pretty good at WOT with the cover removed. I get about 15 mph @4800 rpms on a 1436 flat bottom with too short of a transom (making my prop slip go through the roof). Put the cover on and it loses a lot of power. Indications of an exhaust leak I believe.

Back to your 15hp, turning the carb upside and blowing into the fuel inlet (as said above) is the best way to test the seat. When I set mine just right, i literally can not blow through it at all in that position. It helps when doing this if you put the fuel hose on to blow through too.

 

[CMOS]

Use minimum initial spring tension. My factory manual says when rope is fully extended one can pull the spring end 1/2 inch out further past the spring cup. You might make a reinforcement plate..3/4 square by 1/16inch thick with a slot for the spring.

Before I install a rebuilt carb I turn it upside down and make sure the float needle has closed.

1. You may be on to something. When I wound the recoil spring in the housing I did it really tight. I have service manuals but there is no mention of gauging how tight to wind the spring.

1. Float was functioning fine right before I reinstalled, but I will have to check things out again.

CMOS