1992 Polar Kraft MVT-1751 with a 1992 Evinrude 60 HP…my first tin boat project

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Aye Capt’n … Steady as she goes

I’m sure Thill has read this thread, because he has commented along the way.

After studying the pic I posted more, I believe I can simply raise the assembly until the roller sits under the eye fitting. That will raise the winch making a straighter pull.

It’s free to loosen the nuts and try a different position, so that’s what I’ll try.

On another note. Should the transom be lined up with the end of the bunks? Or is it ok to have the back of the boat past the ends of the bunks a few inches? Right now the transom is even with the bunks.
 

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Aye Capt’n … Steady as she goes

I’m sure Thill has read this thread, because he has commented along the way.

After studying the pic I posted more, I believe I can simply raise the assembly until the roller sits under the eye fitting. That will raise the winch making a straighter pull.

It’s free to loosen the nuts and try a different position, so that’s what I’ll try.

On another note. Should the transom be lined up with the end of the bunks? Or is it ok to have the back of the boat past the ends of the bunks a few inches? Right now the transom is even with the bunks.

The transom should be 100% supported by the bunks. The transom should not hang past the end the bunks. It is very normal for the bunks to extend 1/2' - 1" beyond the transom. I would shift the bunks back an inch.
 
My wife has been sick & hospitalized since December 26th. I haven’t had time to do anything for the last four months. I decided to start making time to work on this boat, otherwise it will never get done.

Yesterday I started sanding, inspecting and preparing the interior so I can paint it. After I have painted it, I want to get the rib reinforcement angles permanently riveted/bonded to the ribs, that will support the floor sheet I cut previously.

I spent about four hours sanding, another hour or two cleaning and wiping everything with acetone. It was kind of a tedious job, but I got it done and applied a coat of paint last night. It took another hour at least to paint it, again, it was a tedious lob, but now it is done and ready for the next step.
 

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Thanks for the kind words, she has been through a lot in the last four months.

I had to bend the 1.5” .125 angles a little past 90 degrees. The vertical sides of the ribs aren’t perfectly perpendicular to the floor, or parallel with themselves. I guess the ribs or hat channel’s bowed when installed during manufacturing.

After I made the bends, I reinstalled the angles, and realized I had to bend them a little more. I’m trying to get both top flanges to create a flat surface for the .125 deck that’s going on top.

After making more bends I scuffed them with a scotch Brite pad, and cleaned them up with acetone before sprayed them lightly with zinc chromate primer.
 

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Thanks Thill.

I installed seven (of ten) rib reinforcement angles after work tonight. I stopped at seven because that’s how far one tube of 3M 2200 adhesive went. I have another tube on hand, but I want to have a use for what I won’t need on the three reinforcement angles. I’m going to fabricate some doublers and bond them in place with 3M 2200. I guess my plan will always be to have enough bonded repairs ready for installation before opening a new tube of 3M 2200. I don’t want to waste any more than I have to. Every rivet I put in this boat will go in wet, for added strength & water tight results.

I’ll post a close up picture of a pop rivet “wet installed” with 3M 2200.
 
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I was unable to post any pictures in the post above…I will try again.

My internet has been hit or miss for the last week…I hate Brightspeed!

The pictures below show how I wet install a rivet.
 

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