2012 Lowe A1667 - SOLD

[kensho1976]

Hello all! I've been trolling the boards for a while, trying to learn how to do things without screwing anything up too bad. My father and I just purchased a bare bones 2012 Lowe A1667 from a local dealer and wanted to mod it for more storage and fishing ease. Unfortunately, the A1667 is labeled as a utility boat, and has three bench seats and a split bench in the stern. This doesn't allow for very good movement around the boat, especially for young children.

We threw in a side console, some slide rails for our folding seats, and a 2006 40 HP Mercury EFI motor.

Now that I'm getting a little more comfortable with the boat and have been out in the bay a few times, I have a better understanding of what needs to go where. I
've already cut out a small front casting platform out of 3/4" ply that will extend from the front bench to the bow. I just don't know how to secure it without putting holes all over the boat. I originally wanted to make it a temporary thing, in case I wasn't satisfied with the layout. After talking it over with my father, he suggested Liquid Nails/Gorilla Glue, and some SS screws into the bench seat. I'd still think it'd be wise to put something at the very front of the boat, just in case.

To add, I'm also thinking of cutting into the front and middle benches and putting some storage in. I'd replace the flotation foam that would be removed by adding a floor and putting the pool noodles or pourable foam under that. There's just so little storage on the boat, that it's really begging to be modified.

The other thing I'd like to do is cut into the rear half benches for the batteries or gas tank, and then cover that (with ventilation) with a back casting deck. The area between the back split bench and the first bench would hold coolers for catches, bait, and food.

I had a couple of questions before I put too much work into it, and damage the boat before it even runs out of warranty.

1) The foam inside the seats and benches is only in the case the boat floods, correct? It has absolutely nothing to do with the displacement or flotation of the boat when dry? Can I safely remove the foam as long as a put in more foam elsewhere?

2) The boat leans to the stern and starboard when sitting in the water empty. The engine must be a good 300 pounds, and the controls and cabling are on the starboard side. I'm concerned about adding any more weight to the back, and I'm actually thinking of moving the gas and maybe the batteries to the front. We've already wired everything, so moving the batteries are going to be a pain.

3) How can I secure that front casting platform? Do I need to anchor it at the front, or will the 3/4 ply stand up to 280 lbs only being secure through the bench?

Any suggestions/comments/criticisms would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Brian

 

[kensho1976]

Here are a few pics of the front casting deck. I haven't painted it or secured it yet, but I cut out a 10"x15" hatch, added a sunken piano hinge and some 1x2s on the bottom to hopefully support the weight of someone standing on it.

 

[cals boat]

Hello Brian

I have the same boat with same storage issues, and want to do the same as u have stated from decking, moving batteries, and even gas tank to front, and wanting to remove the 2 center benches but was informed that at a higher speed, with ur 40 that u have sides could be unstable unless u give them support.

I am looking forward to see just what u do with ur mods, i am excited to start mine but had an accident a while back, so i am on hold for a while, like u i have a motor upgrade 30 hp, So many ideas and choices, good luck and have fun.

 

[snips]

just finished my deck this weekend.It is 2 layers of 3/4 PLY wrapped in Nautolex.I also was not looking to drill a bunch of holes in the bench top.I got a piece if angle aluminum and screwed that to the front edge of the bench like an upside down L,and ran screws up through that into the underside of the deck.Looks clean,and is solid.

 

[kensho1976]

Did you secure the plywood at the bow, or just at the bench seat? I imagine that much plywood is certainly sturdy enough. I just have a single 3/4" sheet. I ended up riveting two small aluminum L-brackets to the bow of the boat, about 5 inches from the front seam. I found the task of marking, drilling, and riveting to be very easy.

Last night I secured my fire extinguisher and holder under the side console. I may add some rubber backing between the holder and the extinguisher since there is a little play there, and I don't want the thing bouncing around while I'm en route.

I also ended up cutting another 13" x 30" hole near the front of the plywood. My plan is to cut into the front bench seat and dig out the foam. I'll then put together either a wooden or aluminum storage box and attach it to the underside of the decking. A lid will cover it all. The lip of the deck will have an aluminum angle to cover up any mistakes.

We ended up having the dealer install a bimini top to protect us from the sun. The original plan when the bimini top was stowed was to have it fold down very near the transom. Instead, the bimini top was placed a little farther forward since we ended up seating the kids in front of us. Now, it folds down in between the rear split bench and the 1st rear bench. I was going to deck that entire area and put lids in for the coolers and a live well, but the bimini top will end up having to be lifted every time we need access. So I'm rethinking that idea. When we're fishing, the bimini top will likely not be raised.

I also need to install a 12V outlet for the spotlight.

I'll post pictures as I go.

 

[Bailey Boat]

Kensho, look into a couple of sliding rails and the associated hardware to get the top farther back in the boat where you want it.

Similar to this... https://www.cabelas.com/product/Boating/Boat-Covers/Bimini-Tops%7C/pc/104794380/c/104703480/sc/104216580/Bimini-Top-Hardware-Slide-Track/751575.uts?destination=%2Fcatalog%2Fbrowse%2Fboating-boat-covers-bimini-tops%2F_%2FN-1100622%3FWT.srch%3D1%26WT.tsrc%3DPPC%26WT.mc_id%3Dbing%7Cboa_Boat%2BCovers_Bimini%2BTops%7CUSA%26WT.z_mc_id1%3DbU9vhEztX%26rid%3D20%26pcrid%3D354957650%26sadid%3D44000000002844158&WTz_l=PPC%3Bcat104216580

 

[kensho1976]

I started priming the wood today for painting. It's been slow going because of work and all the rain. I thought Florida was supposed to be the Sunshine State?

I went ahead and cut a 30" x 15" rectangular hole in the front seat and took out all the foam. I managed to fit 2 throwable flotation devices and four of the nice life jackets inside. I'm not sure I'll use it for that, but I was just seeing how much I could fit. I was originally going to put together a wooden box and attach it to the fishing deck, but decided to just gut the whole bench out and put a piece of aluminum with holes for drainage at the bottom instead. It gives a lot more room in there with little added weight.

I'm going to put a lid on the large compartment, I just haven't had a chance to get out the table saw yet. I really want to get the front done before I move on to the back.

 

[kensho1976]

Thanks Bailey Boat, I'm certainly going to check those out. I thought about it a bit and when we put the top up, it's kind of in the middle, so when fishing we have the front and the back to fish from. If I did move it back, you could only drop fish off the back.

I like the thought of being able to move it around though, as necessary for the activity.

 

[Scott1298]

3) How can I secure that front casting platform? Do I need to anchor it at the front, or will the 3/4 ply stand up to 280 lbs only being secure through the bench?

Any suggestions/comments/criticisms would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Brian

If you are trying to hold the bench down without drilllng a bunch of holes, I came up with a solution you might be able to use if you cut a block to support the front of your platform. I thought you could install this system through the first hole you cut. Ignore the dry wood, I started with this as a prototype and decided to use it for a while it turned out so good. I used a couple fence staples, s hooks and turn buckles and this thing is rock solid in place! I just used industrial strength velcro on all my seats in case I need to make a change, and nothing has ever lifted even at highway speed.

 

[kensho1976]

Scott - That's genius. I should've checked the boards before today. I figured that I'd already cut into the front bench seat, so a few more holes won't matter. I attached two three-pole rod holders to the front with bolts through the aluminum. They shouldn't be coming off any time soon.

I still don't really know what to do with the front. I need a place for live bait, but not so much live catches. I figure we'll throw whatever we catch on ice.

I went ahead and put two coats of primer and two coats of paint with grip. I then got some matched spray paint from the Lowe's dealer and went over the top again, since I didn't like the original color I painted it. I'm sure the spray paint is going to come off, but it looks good for the first attempt.

I'm looking forward to just getting this project done. I'm spending too much time in the garage, and not enough on the water!

 

[Scott1298]

Looking good =D> I know what you mean, it seems each hole is easier to make than the last. I've been lucky I didn't cut/drill a couple times, as I've often made changes after the first design/build. I think I'm going to leave the sides of my front bench for speakers... I swear a drug habit would have been cheaper #-o

 

[fool4fish1226]

nice work the boat looks great :beer:

 

[kensho1976]

Thanks Fool4Fish.

I spent a good deal of time at the hardware store just looking at the different ways to attach the top. In the end, I went with 3/4" large diameter stainless steel screws. The S-hook and turn buckle idea was great, but I had an irrational fear of the thing flying off on the highway or hitting my kids in the face when we hit 30 mph in the boat. So, I predrilled holes in the aluminum 3 inches away from the opening on the sides, and two inches apart. I then placed the deck on and screwed by hand from the underside. In the bow I attached two aluminum L-brackets to the wood crossmember and then to the top. That's 10 stainless steel screws holding it on. I can reach them all if I need to take the top off, but I can still imagine my wife scolding me at the hospital while one of my kids gets their noggin stitched up. Perhaps some more screws are in order... :shock:

I saw some neat storage ideas when searching the net. Check out the post here. Instead of cutting down into the seat, imagine cutting from the front (or back), adding a compartment, and then using netting to keep everything in. To start, I'll probably just get some ~12" x ~46" cargo netting and attach it to the front of the 2nd and 3rd benches for storage. If I feel I need more storage later on, I can always cut into the front of the bench and use the same posts/buttons for the netting.

For the opening, I managed to measure wrong. It's about 30" long, 12" deep, and 8" high at the highest point (due to the V-hull shape). I really need cooler storage, and I want to move some of the weight up front, so I think I'm going to purchase two Coleman Party Stacker 18 quart coolers. They should fit nicely side by side in the opening. I'll have to make a floor for them so they sit level on the bottom, and they'll poke up about a good 8 inches above the deck. But, they'll be removable, and I can always add a lid later if I so choose. I was thinking about making a lid that just sits on with some cleats underneath so that it's removable. That should give me flexibility for now. Since this is my first boat modding project, and I tend to change my mind often, flexibility is a good thing!

 

[kensho1976]

Took the boat out today with my wife. 2' chop in the bay. We tried fishing over a reef, but we were just getting tossed around, so we moved inland towards a shallower area protected from the wind. Didn't catch anything but trash fish, but learned the following:

1) With the coolers and the fishing poles, it's difficult to reach the front casting deck or tie off the anchor.
2) Otherwise, the coolers were great. Though they don't fit perfectly in the 30" x 12" hole in the front, I can fit a throwable cushion behind them, and it all fits snugly. The drinks were super cold and the ice intact after about 5 hours on the water.
3) I took a battery powered aerator, so I'll be drilling a hole through the top for the hose to go through. The hose was getting blocked by the weight of the cooler lid.
4) The cargo nets need support along the top. Having buttons on either side just isn't enough. I've attached some zip tie holders and will be using black zip ties in order to keep the net from drooping too much. I think a smaller net with multiple attachment points would have been a better idea.
5) The spray paint on the front casting deck didn't hold up, as I expected. Next time, I'll just buy the right color paint in the first place.
6) The bimini top saved us from frying, though it also limited our casting. I still think I'd rather avoid being burnt to a crisp than catching a fish. My wife even caught a nap under it while I was fishing some docks.
7) I didn't have a difficult time navigating back by sight, but my wife wanted to steer and had no idea where to go. I think if I had marked the docks we launched from on the GPS/Chart plotter, she could have easily made it back.
8) I think my dream of fishing two adults and two kids off this boat is gone. There's just no room for everyone, their gear, and enough casting space to make everyone happy.
9) I liked having everything in the boat when we left the house. When we got to the dock, we just backed it in and took off. Normally we're scrambling at a busy dock (whether at the dock or at the staging area) to get everything transferred.
10) The Lowe seat tracks are awesome. Our seats come completely off, can be moved around, and put anywhere the track is located on the two benches. This allows a wide array of seating options. The swivels for the seats also make things easier.

 

[kensho1976]

I finally got around to doing some more work on the boat. I ended up changing it around a bit. The coolers in the front got in the way, so I created a hatch and remove the coolers. I found two larger coolers that fit perfectly in between the back bench seat and the rear platform. The just kind of sit on their handles, and come out easy for cleaning.

I riveted some thicker aluminum angle on the back of the rear bench seat, created a 2x2 frame and hatch, and created another hatch over the gas tank and battery. the 2x2 frame and hatch has a channel that the rear lip fits into, and it sits on the aluminum angle, so I don't think I'll need to screw it down. That'll leave it available for removal and replacement when the salt gets to it all.

I created an aluminum frame out of thinner angle and dropped a piece of ply down in it. The angle and ply rest on the ribs, and the angle is riveted at all four corners to the bench and rear platforms for stability. This will hopefully help keep gear in there dry. Anything we used to leave on the bottom would get soaked as water would eventually make it's way into the boat.

I had to replace the switch panel. The old one corroded quickly from the salt water. The new on is water resistant, and the switches are booted.

I replaced the saggy net with a tighter fitting one. It looks much nicer now.

I've got to paint everything, and finish the sides off, but I'm happy with the result. Now if I could just convince the fish to bite, I'd be a happy angler.

 

[kensho1976]

Well, I'm back at it. I've been looking over Badbagger's, Bigwave's, and Country Dave's builds, and I have to admit that mine just wasn't up to par. I don't have the skill set (or the equipment) to build like they do, but my build left a lot to be desired.

Things I learned over the past year:
[*]The boat is small. Sure, it says you can carry five, and maybe you can, but it will be for nothing more than as a ferry service. We couldn't reasonably fish more than 3 at a time.
[*]Two coolers were overkill, especially since I'm not using a live well.
[*]A standard screw down trolling motor gets in the way when mounted on the bow. I'm looking at moving it and the spare battery to the stern.
[*]There's finally enough room to stand. The back casting deck and front casting deck is enough space for me.
[*]You can't do it all. You have to decide what you want to do with the boat, and build your design from there. There just isn't enough space to do everything.

Tampa Bay isn't very deep, and I like flats fishing, so my new design is heading that way. I'm going to drop down to one cooler in the front, two batteries in the back. Plastic Tempress (cam lock) or TH hatches will be so much easier than trying to custom build my own. I don't have access to a machine shop or aluminum brake, so making lips for the hatches is out of the question for me.

 

[kensho1976]

Fulton Fold-Away Coupler
We moved recently, and the new garage was a full 3' shorter than the old garage. I ended up having to install a Fulton Fold-Away Coupler on the trailer tongue.

To mark where to cut on the tongue, I moved the boat diagonally in the garage as far as it would go without hitting the car. I brought the garage door down and dropped a plumb line from the braces on the garage door (the part that might hit the trailer tongue) and marked the location on the tongue. I then used a square to mark a straight line across the tongue.

I pulled all of the wires back towards the rear through the frame so they wouldn't get cut.

Using a metal abrasive wheel for my circular saw, I was able to easily cut the tongue.

I looked over what it would take to bolt the hinge on, and I opted to have it welded instead. To bolt it on, it would take center punches, many drill bits (you have to start at a small diameter and increase the hole twice), and a lot of time. I had a friend bring his gear over, and he sanded down the hinge and the tongue with an angle grinder. He then welded the hinge on, with three beads on each side. It seems pretty sturdy, but I don't know anything about welding. I then took a wire wheel and sanded out all the mess left from welding and sprayed it with cold galvanizing spray that I got from T.A. Mahoneys.

I could have saved myself a lot of trouble and moved the original cut 10" one way or the other. Unfortunately, I just didn't have the room to move the cut more towards the coupler. The cut ended up being exactly where the diagonal support and winch sit on the frame. My son and I looked over all of our options and tried moving all the parts (hinge, diagonal support, brace, etc) to see if there was a better configuration.

We decided we would buy a winch that fit on top of the diagonal support. I took some pictures and went to T.A. Mahoney's. I spoke to a guy there that said there should be no issue mounting the diagonal support in front of the hinge (towards the coupler). I thought having it there and trying to winch the boat on the trailer would put too much strain on the hinge, but he said the boat is so light and the pull is straight, so it's shouldn't do any harm. Have any of you heard any differently?

Lastly, I pulled all the wires back to the front using a wire snake, and cleaned them up with wire wrap and some zip ties.

I haven't moved the safety chains behind the hinge yet (in case the weld fails). After I do that, this portion of the project should be done.

 

[Devil's-Tinner]

I think you are doing great work here! love the boat.

 

[kensho1976]

Thanks Devils-Tinner! I wish I knew back then what I know now. It would've been easier!


I've got a question for those of you that have the seat mounts and pedestals. My goal was to have four seats in the boat when cruising, and be able to take two seats out and use them at the bow and stern for casting seats.

I was going to use a stainless steel 7x7" seat base at the bow and stern, and two more where we normally sit during transit (so four total). The seats would have a stainless steel 3/4" seat mount with a 2 3/4" pin attached to them. When in transit, the seats would be in the lowest position, essentially the seat mount would be in the seat base without the pedestal. When we stop and fish we'd move them to the bow and stern and use the pedestals.

This would allow the boat to function for the occasional family cruise around the bay, as well as allow me to fish two comfortably when the family stays home.

My question is that the seat mounts say they're rated for under 5 MPH. I don't understand why they're rated so low, especially if they're almost flush with the deck (pin going into seat baset, no pedestal). Is the 5 MPH only when on a pedestal or are they really just not that safe?

Is there any other way to do what I'm looking to do? Maybe the plastic quick release seat swivels?

 

[kensho1976]

Front Deck Support

I started on the front deck support yesterday. My son and I went through a bunch of ideas, and settled on 2x2 lumber, since it's cheap, plentiful, and hopefully strong. My wife has yanked my boat budget, so I couldn't go with aluminum (though if I had the money, I would've).

Parts List:
[*]1 lb box of Grip Rite Stainless Steel Exterior Screws, 2-1/2" x #10. ($15)
[*]Titebond II Wood Glue (already owned)
[*]#10 countersink bit ($5)
[*]Small drill bit (already owned)
[*]Star bit (included with screws)
[*]Seven 2x2 x 8 non-PT lumber ($12)
[*]Corner clamps (already owned)

Total cost was $32 for the front deck bracing.

Notes:
[*]Every hole was predrilled
[*]All corners were glued
[*]All connections were reinforced with two 2-1/2" SS screws

I decided to make three rectangles, then screw those together. The two outside rectangles were the same size, and the middle rectangle (really a T) was made to but up against the console and sit on the existing brackets at the bow. The wood was as close to straight as I could get it, but still a little warped. After making the three rectangles, I screwed them together in four spots with the 2-1/2" SS screws.

Hopefully tomorrow I can get some paint and coat everything so I can start on the front deck.