76 evinrude 85 horse won't do anything

[rodknee1231]

I'm looking at the metal bar thing at the bottom of the choke solenoid sorry wasn't sure what it was called ha

 

[kofkorn]

Looks like the throttle linkage that someone attached to the choke. Take a look at this picture from a '76 200hp V6. Doesn't the bend look a lot like the one you're holding??



Are both of your carbs properly linked and operating at exactly the same time? If not, you may need to move that linkage over to your throttle side and link your carbs together.

If they're already connected, then someone may have stuck an extra part on ?? :-k

 

[rodknee1231]

yea both carbs were synchronized properly

 

[kofkorn]

Ahhh, here we go. A little more digging and I found it! It links the choke to the throttle.

take a look here:

 

[rodknee1231]

perfect thanks I believe I'm missing the plastic piece that holds the link

 

[rodknee1231]

here's a better pic of where that piece should be wonder how I will connect the rod now

 

[kofkorn]

I probably wouldn't connect it. As long as your choke solenoid is operating the choke plates, and the throttle butterflies are functioning properly there's no need for the linkage. I see several images of other motors that have this linkage removed. The only purpose I can see is that it's potentially allowing the choke to stay cracked open depending on the throttle position. If you have a higher idle, it will keep the choke open slightly.

https://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc244/wildmaninal/Picture006-1.jpg
https://smalloutboards.com/images/e8573/insideside.jpg
https://i310.photobucket.com/albums/kk406/cdnfthree/002-1.jpg
https://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/844/t3qt.jpg

Without the linkage, you'll need to be a little more aware of the starting procedure, bumping the choke on with the key occasionally until it can stay running on it's own. This is actually the procedure on most of the two stroke motors, with both the choke or electric primer circuit.

Give it a try and see what you think. If you don't like it, I'm sure the plastic clip is readily available (P/N 0313329)

Good luck!

 

[rodknee1231]

that answers that so what about timing do I need to time it what I'd the advance supposed to be

 

[kofkorn]

There usually is a sticker on the front of the air box that has the motor year and timing advance (at a specific speed). I've rarely found the timing to be a significant problem, but you can attempt to check it if you want. There's a procedure on another site that explains how to get the timing really close without running the motor (Google Reeves WOT timing).

Have you replaced the water pump yet? Now would be a good time. Then you can float it and see how it runs.

Good luck!

 

[rodknee1231]

haven't changed the water pump, po said it was just changed I'll see how good of a pee stream I get wen I get it to run I got new plugs and put them on and proceeded to check for a spark and didn't have one on the first one I checked at that point my 3 month old son was in need of attention so I called it a night. but I was wondering this motor doesn't turn very fast if I just jump the solenoid with a battery would that cause it to not want to spark or have any compression my compression checker hardly moved at all

 

[rodknee1231]

besides the impeller the power pack ant the coils. what else hoes out on these frequently enough that I will have to or should replace. the carbs are clean and look good. I know the rectifier is getting replaced.

 

[kofkorn]

I was wondering this motor doesn't turn very fast if I just jump the solenoid with a battery would that cause it to not want to spark or have any compression my compression checker hardly moved at all

Ok, that's a little concerning. How slow is slow? The flywheel should be completely revolving 3 or 4 times a second with the starter. If you are getting less than 2 turns a second, it's going to have a very hard time starting. Do you have another battery that you can use to rule that out? Just because your bilge pump is running, doesn't mean your battery is good. Jump it to your car if you need to. Get the starter spinning well so we can move on to the compression.

The compression is the main concern here. You should be getting some kind of reading. First thing is that I would check your gauge in something that runs normally like your lawnmower. Make sure it's working properly.

Ideally, you want that motor north of 120 psi per cylinder, but at that age 110-115 isn't uncommon, and anything above 100 should give you a reasonably good running motor. Even if the starter is turning really slow, you should be getting a reading of some kind. Now since we don't know when this motor last ran, the compression check will be a starting point. It'll likely go up a little after the motor's been used for a bit and the cylinders get lubed back up.

A couple of notes when testing compression:

1) remove the kill switch lanyard to kill the spark to the plugs.
2) remove ALL of the spark plugs to reduce the work the starter motor needs to do, this will also help to increase the starter speed
3) Move the throttle all the way to wide open. This reduces the vacuum that will also reduce the compression reading
4) Engage the starter until you get a couple of turns of the motor without the gauge increasing in pressure. (Shouldn't take much more than 5 or 6 turns of the motor to get there)

Good luck!

One last comment: I would at least pull the lower unit and check the water pump. The PO can tell you he changed it, but it's so critical, I don't take anyone else's word for it. Especially if it was done "Last year", as that is easily mis-remembered. If it is in poor condition, you can toast your motor and that 20 minutes you saved by taking the PO's word for it means you need a new motor.

 

[kofkorn]

besides the impeller the power pack ant the coils. what else hoes out on these frequently enough that I will have to or should replace. the carbs are clean and look good. I know the rectifier is getting replaced.

Let's get the compression confirmed first. Fixing the spark on a bad motor isn't going to do you any good. Once the starter is spinning properly, it'll be easier to diagnose spark issues too.

 

[rodknee1231]

I think my problem was that I didn't have a good connection with the jump wire I was just touching the leads so I'll probably connect the cables and the jumper wire the right way and see if it turns faster. it turned real fast when it was on the boat so it has to be connections I should have connected the compression tester when it was still on the boat

 

[rodknee1231]

wired up the solenoid and battery better and had a very fast turn. unfortunately I got low compression, cylinder 1 is 55 psi, cyl 2 is 45psi, cyl 3 is 70 and cyl 4 is 70. so that is pretty concerning I do have spark in all 4 cylinders surprisingly so what everyone's prognosis should I do head gaskets ?

 

[rodknee1231]

I'm looking at head gaskets and the only ones I can find are for a 1979 and up will they fit my 1976 or do I need to keep searching

 

[Pappy]

When you are doing compression on a 2-stroke Johnson or Evinrude there is no need nor mention of opening the throttle blades. Mainly a 4-stroke thing. Not going to hurt anything but not needed.
250RPM is the minimum magic number for a good starting system. Old or bad crimps on the cables are common with this vintage. After trying the starter feel the cables and ends to see if any are warm or hot to the touch and if so, repair.
As long as the compression is within 10% of each other, regardless of the number, you will have something to work with.
If.....you decide to pull the cylinder heads and at this point, why, replace all water diverters while in there. If that engine or any other older V-4 was overheated those diverters melt, push over, and will block future water flow.

 

[rodknee1231]

so even with those low numbers that's ok ? if the water pump checks out ok could I go ahead and give it fuel ? also if I take the water pump apart can I just put it back together or does it need re sealed

 

[Pappy]

so even with those low numbers that's ok ? if the water pump checks out ok could I go ahead and give it fuel ? also if I take the water pump apart can I just put it back together or does it need re sealed

No. Didn't catch those numbers until I re-read.
Get the starting RPM up and re-do compression and we can start from there.

 

[rodknee1231]

I already did the rpms at start are pretty high.