best paint stripper and paint for aluminum

[Nikki Hayes]

 

[sonny1]

I would not use a stripper on an aluminum boat. wire brushed.

 

[mbullen]

In my experience, all modern strippers suck.
But that being said, I've had the best experience with Citristrip Gel. However, there is definitely madness in the method.
It needs to be applied thick and it needs to stay wet for a considerable amount of time to work.
I extend the time frame by covering with saran wrap/plastic wrap. Overnight, even.
A good scotch pad and a pressure washer is in the recipe, too, and they have to be used before the gel begins to dry up.
...even then, it sometimes takes a second - or even third - application. (depends on what you're dealing with, of course)

 

[sonny1]

The problem with stripper is no matter what you use the aluminum is going to get contaminated. You can etch the aluminum but as porous as aluminum is your still going to be left with contamination which could affect your paint job. Even the best aircraft stripper is followed up with a good sandblast and then etched in most F.A.A. repair stations. Not saying it would not work but after spending a lot of money on primer and paint I prefer to wire brush and then etch.

 

[mbullen]

interesting, sonny1.
However, that's not been my experience at all. I've had nice success with the Citristrip on multiple boats. The protective oxidation comes back pretty quickly.
I've used etching primers and oil-based enamels with hardeners on all of them. Both rattle can and gun applications.
All still holding strong.
I've also left two boats raw and polished with no problems.
But on the other hand, I've had zero experience with wire wheels so I can't speak to that.
I have seen conversations that have voiced concerns over the dissimilar metals left behind if the wrong brush is chosen, however.
I definitely wouldn't recommend a sandblast, though. Unless you're just using generic terms.
Way to much heat for these tinnies that are mostly .060-.095.
But there are undoubtedly a lot of suitable media options out there. I just can't afford any of them. lol
...and I'm not entirely sure I would put in the labor of hand-stripping if you're going to media blast anyway?

 

[LDUBS]

OK, won't hurt my feelings if this goes in they dumb question box. If it is going to be repainted why is a paint stripper needed? Why not sand to a solid base then prime & paint.

 

[jethro]

OK, won't hurt my feelings if this goes in they dumb question box. If it is going to be repainted why is a paint stripper needed? Why not sand to a solid base then prime & paint.

That's what I would do unless the previous paint job was not factory.

 

[mbullen]

OK, won't hurt my feelings if this goes in they dumb question box. If it is going to be repainted why is a paint stripper needed? Why not sand to a solid base then prime & paint.

Legit. Lol

In my case, I've never rescued one that didn't have multiple layers and cliffhanging edges on each.
Nevermind the globs of polyurethanes like bedliners and flex seals. Lol

 

[LDUBS]

That makes sense. Thanks!

 

[sonny1]

interesting, sonny1.
However, that's not been my experience at all. I've had nice success with the Citristrip on multiple boats. The protective oxidation comes back pretty quickly.
I've used etching primers and oil-based enamels with hardeners on all of them. Both rattle can and gun applications.
All still holding strong.
I've also left two boats raw and polished with no problems.
But on the other hand, I've had zero experience with wire wheels so I can't speak to that.
I have seen conversations that have voiced concerns over the dissimilar metals left behind if the wrong brush is chosen, however.
I definitely wouldn't recommend a sandblast, though. Unless you're just using generic terms.
Way to much heat for these tinnies that are mostly .060-.095.
But there are undoubtedly a lot of suitable media options out there. I just can't afford any of them. lol
...and I'm not entirely sure I would put in the labor of hand-stripping if you're going to media blast anyway?

Go back and read my post sir. You did not understand what I was talking about at all. Sandblasting was referring to method used in a F.A.A. repair station not on a boat.

 

[mbullen]

Go back and read my post sir. You did not understand what I was talking about at all. Sandblasting was referring to method used in a F.A.A. repair station not on a boat.

I understood perfectly, sonny.
My counterpoint for each of your recommendations still applies.

Even the analogous one.

 

[Steph Boeker]

View attachment 115205

This is a very informative thread. Good topic !! It seems the question is between post stripping chemistry and ease of successful stripping. I can address the latter :
I tried 3 kinds of stripper, pressure washer, wire wheels (stainless steel wheels 'brushes' of course ... ask why S.S.) scotch bright wheels, paint eater wheels. But, in the end, my carpenters palm sander w/80g was so much faster, more complete, less damage to aluminum and didn't seem to leave any chemical danger at all. At least for most of the flat areas. I will say where the rivets where plenty or stacked closely, the wire wheel was best.
Hope this helps. You can see my stripping & progress on thread named Paint Stripping if you are interested.
Rooting for you, God bless,
Sincerely ...............
P.S. No matter what you choose there is plenty of work hours involved

 

[thill]

I agree that most modern paint strippers are really bad.

I've never heard that sandblasting an aircraft is okay. Sandblasting aluminum would seriously damage the surface. I'm guessing you probably meant soda-blasting.

Soda blasting, or some other, more gentle medium would be required. But of course, if you are soda blasting, you certainly don't need paint stripper, obviously.

Wire brushing with new stainless is to keep little steel bits from embedding in the aluminum and causing rust spots or interfering with getting a clean weld.

 

[Steph Boeker]

I agree that most modern paint strippers are really bad.

I've never heard that sandblasting an aircraft is okay. Sandblasting aluminum would seriously damage the surface. I'm guessing you probably meant soda-blasting.

Soda blasting, or some other, more gentle medium would be required. But of course, if you are soda blasting, you certainly don't need paint stripper, obviously.

Wire brushing with new stainless is to keep little steel bits from embedding in the aluminum and causing rust spots or interfering with getting a clean weld.

My gosh, I wonder if all this debate of sand blasting & chemical risk descriptions are really what Miss. Nikki was hoping to learn ??

 

[LaqueRatt]

What I did recently to my AlumaCraft was much simpler and the results were pretty dang good! I spent an hour with a putty knife, scraping off anything that was lifting. No big deal, didn't even break a sweat. Wiped it down with thinner per directions on the paint I used and just went to town on it with a paint brush. Took very little time, effort, or money.

Sold it to some people who were awed by how nice it looked. Sure if you looked close you could see some edges and a run or two, maybe more, from the previous owners.

I think what is sorta missed in discussions like this is what is the desired result? If you want to restore it and make it look like new, by all means remove all the old paint and prime it. There are no easy ways to accomplish this though.

All I wanted to do was take an ugly old boat with several coats of paint and make it look respectable. Since I had left over paint and it would be a 5 min job to touch up anything that lifts I did not seriously consider primer. I could care less if some eventually peels since it was not perfect and could not easily be made perfect.

To add a little to this discussion for those who do wish to take it down to bare metal. I did an entire car in an afternoon using those chunky hamburger patty looking disc things in an angle grinder. Think 3M makes them, but Harbor Freight has a similar product that is a lot cheaper and works just as well. I went through like 4 or 5 and had to use a brass wire wheel in the tight spots. Just my 2 cents.

 

[sonny1]

I agree that most modern paint strippers are really bad.

I've never heard that sandblasting an aircraft is okay. Sandblasting aluminum would seriously damage the surface. I'm guessing you probably meant soda-blasting.

Soda blasting, or some other, more gentle medium would be required. But of course, if you are soda blasting, you certainly don't need paint stripper, obviously.

Wire brushing with new stainless is to keep little steel bits from embedding in the aluminum and causing rust spots or interfering with getting a clean weld.

Sorry to break the news But most OEM aircraft parts that are to be overhauled are sand blasted. Special medium is used. We shall use a simple heat exchanger for example. Part is brought in and Evaluation is done on part. Work order follows. Usually it requires a core replacement. Manifolds are then cut off and sent to the clean line. Most aluminum parts are painted. Very common to place part in paint stripper tank for a few hours and then pressure wash. From there it is taking to the sandblaster room. Cabinet type fully enclosed. Medium used is for aluminum. From there back to clean line were part is soaked in a cleaning agent for several hours. Then pressure washed again. Then dipped in a mild cleaning agent which has some etching cabilitys. Then power washed again. Then placed in the acid tank for about 30 seconds. Removed and power washed again. Very detailed procedure that if not followed could result in losing your F.A.A. licence. Areas were welding will take place are general wire brushed with S/S wire. Part is tested and then sent to the paint room. On a boat just Hosing off is not going to remove all the residue. This may cause the paint to not stick properly. I spent a small fortune on paint and do not want any screw ups. Wired brushed down to bare metal. Using sand paper is Ok but guess where all the grit from your sandpaper goes? Right into the aluminum. I believe we had less damage to the aluminum with the proper gauge brushes then compared to using sand paper. Plan on washing boat several times and then etch. Paint will follow shortly after etching. Paint job should look like sharp.

 

[sonny1]

My gosh, I wonder if all this debate of sand blasting & chemical risk descriptions are really what Miss. Nikki was hoping to learn ??

She is either going to be confused or well educated.

 

[mbullen]

Jfc.
If it's a "special medium", its not sand.
Don't *sand*blast aluminum, folks.
Full stop.
No licence nor work order needed to paint a dang tin boat, fwiw.

Best of luck, Nikki.

My short story is ..
-CitriStrip Gel stripper
-etching primers of choice. Bulk or rattlecan.
-Rustoleum oil-based enamels. Bulk or rattlecan
(Bulk is available in marine or not.. able to be color-mixed.. compatible with tractor paint hardeners... can be applied with paint gun or roller or brush)
*clean with dish detergent.
*wipe with acetone before painting

Later, y'all.

 

[Steph Boeker]

What I did recently to my AlumaCraft was much simpler and the results were pretty dang good! I spent an hour with a putty knife, scraping off anything that was lifting. No big deal, didn't even break a sweat. Wiped it down with thinner per directions on the paint I used and just went to town on it with a paint brush. Took very little time, effort, or money.

Sold it to some people who were awed by how nice it looked. Sure if you looked close you could see some edges and a run or two, maybe more, from the previous owners.

I think what is sorta missed in discussions like this is what is the desired result? If you want to restore it and make it look like new, by all means remove all the old paint and prime it. There are no easy ways to accomplish this though.

All I wanted to do was take an ugly old boat with several coats of paint and make it look respectable. Since I had left over paint and it would be a 5 min job to touch up anything that lifts I did not seriously consider primer. I could care less if some eventually peels since it was not perfect and could not easily be made perfect.

To add a little to this discussion for those who do wish to take it down to bare metal. I did an entire car in an afternoon using those chunky hamburger patty looking disc things in an angle grinder. Think 3M makes them, but Harbor Freight has a similar product that is a lot cheaper and works just as well. I went through like 4 or 5 and had to use a brass wire wheel in the tight spots. Just my 2 cents.

Guess you won't be dealing w/ any peeling issues either as you'll be busy counting the money you made off the new owners. What the heck, if they want to restore it let em'
In my case, I'm old, want to keep it and am too dang OCD to 1/2 ars it for my taste's !! It's a desease I can't shake. It's a good project for the winter of my life. I think the fish will appreciate it when they know they've been caught by someone w/ such passion !! Bahahahahah lol heheheh

 

[thill]

Sonny,
I understand what you mean, but the term "sand blasting" has a specific meaning, and it throws everyone off when that term is uses. Sand blasting would not pass FAA inspection, and in many cases would render the part permanently unusable, depending on what part it is.

Soda, walnut shells, plastic grit and a few other things are suitable for blast cleaning essential aluminum parts, but definitely not sand. As you stated above, you need "special media" for stripping aluminum.

That is all I and others are trying to get across, so people don't sandblast their boats and wonder what went wrong.