Deadrise on a tinner

[Crazyboat]

I've done most of my life in the salt, fiberglass has always been the material of choice and deadrise is almost always listed in the write up. 16 degrees for a bay boat is pretty standard, 22-24 degrees for solid off shore boats.

My question is, why don't they list deadrise in tin boats, many fish some big assed lakes that kick up plenty, looking at the boats I can tell they tend to be around 12 degrees, is there a reason they don't make tin boats with a greater deadrise, are there structural issues they run into, or do they just feel it's not worth the cost to add the smoother ride? I'm speaking of 18' and larger boats of course.

 

[DaleH]

My question is, why don't they list deadrise in tin boats ...

I'd say because most have little to NONE :wink: ... at least for those smaller.

... is there a reason they don't make tin boats with a greater deadrise, are there structural issues they run into, or do they just feel it's not worth the cost to add the smoother ride? I'm speaking of 18' and larger boats of course.

There's plenty of larger tins hulls with deadrise, but before aluminum workboats or the newer custom made alloy ones made for Pacific or Alaskan waters (think Kingfisher (18-deg variable), Koffler, Coastal Craft, Duckworth (19-deg), Maxweld Boats, EagleCraft, Raider (18-deg) et al), I'd say most were likely used on freshwaters ... where deadrise isn't as big a need, if at all.

Best deadrise I've seen so far in a 16-footer was 16-degrees in my old StartCraft FishMaster 160SC or 18-degrees in my 18-foot Lund Tyee dual console. I am not 'up' on larger tins, as I'd HATE the maintenance and care, whereas I boat 99.5% in saltwaters. There's a ton of stray electrical current in some of the tidal estuaries and it just eats up tin boats unreal ...

 

[Crazyboat]

I started digging and did find Crestliner advertises their deadrise, with a few models 19-22' with deadrises @ 17-18 degrees, so not half bad.

 

[PATRIOT2]

I purchased a new 16' tin V-hull with approx 8-10 degrees transom deadrise and sold it after being in the water one time. Too unstable for me so I re-powered my old ZERO degree transom deadrise hull and never looked back. Could not find a new V-hull with ZERO degrees deadrise.
I'm a freshwater guy.

 

[LDUBS]

This made me curious. The manufacturer doesn't list the deadrise for my particular model. However they say it has the same design as another model which lists the deadrise at 12 deg.

Anyway, I think Patriot2 hit the nail on the head. For small tin boats stability at rest or slow speeds is likely a priority.

 

[eeshaw]

I have a jon boat and for what I do with my boat it fills the bill. Now if I were to want to go out on Lake Michigan for example, or cross any large body of water I wouldn't be comfortable doing it in my boat whether it's clear and sunny or not. I'd much rather have a hull with lots of dead rise but for what I do it's not required.

 

[DaleH]

I think that is the lesson here ... where needed or wanted ... or not, deadrise or lack thereof certainly serves a purpose!

 

[MrGiggles]

My question is, why don't they list deadrise in tin boats ...

I'd say because most have little to NONE :wink: ... at least for those smaller.

... is there a reason they don't make tin boats with a greater deadrise, are there structural issues they run into, or do they just feel it's not worth the cost to add the smoother ride? I'm speaking of 18' and larger boats of course.

There's plenty of larger tins hulls with deadrise, but before aluminum workboats or the newer custom made alloy ones made for Pacific or Alaskan waters (think Kingfisher (18-deg variable), Koffler, Coastal Craft, Duckworth (19-deg), Maxweld Boats, EagleCraft, Raider (18-deg) et al), I'd say most were likely used on freshwaters ... where deadrise isn't as big a need, if at all.

Best deadrise I've seen so far in a 16-footer was 16-degrees in my old StartCraft FishMaster 160SC or 18-degrees in my 18-foot Lund Tyee dual console. I am not 'up' on larger tins, as I'd HATE the maintenance and care, whereas I boat 99.5% in saltwaters. There's a ton of stray electrical current in some of the tidal estuaries and it just eats up tin boats unreal ...

Tracker Targas are listed as 20* at the transom.

Most tin boats are designed for fishing smaller inland lakes and rivers, easy towing, lightweight, tough, stable, and inexpensive. A jack of all trades. However, there are some, like the Lund Tyee and Tracker Targa mentioned above that are marketed for big water.

I have a 17' Tracker that probably barely meets the definition of a deep V. I'd say it has less than 10* of deadrise. It certainly makes for a rough, wet ride in waves more than a foot.

 

[DaleH]

I have a 17' Tracker that probably barely meets the definition of a deep V. I'd say it has less than 10* of deadrise.

... that doesn't even meet the typical definition of a 'Soft V', which starts at 10-degrees, Mod-V at 14-degrees and Deep-V at 20-degrees.

 

[ppine]

If you step up to the welded aluminum boats used on the West Coast in the 17-24 foot range, the hulls are much more substantial. They tend to be deep, 25 inches or more, with plenty of deadrise. Some jet boats are the exception if they are made for skinny water. North River, Woolridge, Jetcraft, Willie, Bolton and many others would be examples. These boats are made for big lakes and the salt water. They commonly have a large outboard and a kicker motor, or an inboard jet with a kicker motor.

The smaller boats in the 12-16 foot range, might be riveted or welded, and relatively flat hulls. They are not really designed for big water at all. They are flat, not very deep and not that seaworthy.