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I've had my steelflex on for exactly 2 weeks, but I've trailered and beached it on gravel twice and have seen no flaking :) The only thing I've noticed was that the gloss look of the steelflex is now more dull in those areas.
 
WhiteMoose said:
I've had my steelflex on for exactly 2 weeks, but I've trailered and beached it on gravel twice and have seen no flaking :) The only thing I've noticed was that the gloss look of the steelflex is now more dull in those areas.

Ihave strached mine in a few areas from rough use, but I will just touch that up at some point. No flaking or anything....
 
FishinJoe said:
I am about to order this stuff really soon and after reading this post I am a bit worried. I tend to beach my boat quite a bit and dont want to spend all this money on paint if it is just going to flake off. Can somemore people that have done this please chime in? Thanks

Joe

It's only natural that this is going to scratch a bit when you beach it. It still will protect big time against the bottom of your boat. If you beach all the time without it, I would imagine you're still going to have some issues. I'd rather have the protective barrier myself. The big thing to remember is that it's not paint, it's a 2 part epoxy. It's hard to explain until you see the results. The stuff is for real.
 
I was worried that then it gets scratched down to the aluminum that it would let water between the metal and paint. Is this not a issue if you prep it right then?

Joe
 
FishinJoe said:
I was worried that then it gets scratched down to the aluminum that it would let water between the metal and paint. Is this not a issue if you prep it right then?

Joe


It wont effect any other area if it gets scratched. It is adhered to the metal at every point it makes onctact, which creates a water tight seal.

Do wire wheel it for the best results, thats what worked well with mine.
 
Some things to consider when getting ready for application---------------->#1. DON'T DO IT BY YOURSELF!!! This crap sets up fast and is a nightmare to roll on. #2. Mix it thouroughly, when you think its mixed, mix it for about another 2 full minutes. #3. Don't expect it to turn out glass smooth....it won't.
 
perchin said:
Some things to consider when getting ready for application---------------->#1. DON'T DO IT BY YOURSELF!!! This crap sets up fast and is a nightmare to roll on. #2. Mix it thouroughly, when you think its mixed, mix it for about another 2 full minutes. #3. Don't expect it to turn out glass smooth....it won't.

Its only as good as the prep work you put into it. You can do it by yourself just do smaller sections at a time. Also do multiple thin coats for the best results.
 
Troutman3000 said:
perchin said:
Some things to consider when getting ready for application---------------->#1. DON'T DO IT BY YOURSELF!!! This crap sets up fast and is a nightmare to roll on. #2. Mix it thouroughly, when you think its mixed, mix it for about another 2 full minutes. #3. Don't expect it to turn out glass smooth....it won't.

Its only as good as the prep work you put into it. You can do it by yourself just do smaller sections at a time. Also do multiple thin coats for the best results.

Which was 3 months of researching it, 6 hours of preheating my shop, 12 4" high density foam rollers, 8 naturaul bristle brushes, took down to bare aluminum, acetone bath, good tape job,many small batches were mixed, and was done in small sections, see my thread....... I did mine by myself and would not advise it as being an easy process, rather easy with two people, one mixing, one applying. Did I miss the memo on the secret prepping instructions?
 
perchin said:
Troutman3000 said:
perchin said:
Some things to consider when getting ready for application---------------->#1. DON'T DO IT BY YOURSELF!!! This crap sets up fast and is a nightmare to roll on. #2. Mix it thouroughly, when you think its mixed, mix it for about another 2 full minutes. #3. Don't expect it to turn out glass smooth....it won't.

Its only as good as the prep work you put into it. You can do it by yourself just do smaller sections at a time. Also do multiple thin coats for the best results.

Which was 3 months of researching it, 6 hours of preheating my shop, 12 4" high density foam rollers, 8 naturaul bristle brushes, took down to bare aluminum, acetone bath, good tape job,many small batches were mixed, and was done in small sections, see my thread....... I did mine by myself and would not advise it as being an easy process, rather easy with two people, one mixing, one applying. Did I miss the memo on the secret prepping instructions?

Wasn't aiming that post at you. Dont get so defensive. I was just stating my expirience which was that it was not that difficult. I wire wheeled it, didnt use acetone, then mixed in small amounts (probaly 2-3 cups total) then rolled it on. Did the whole boat one time and then started again giving about 2 hours between applications and it worked well. No visible sags or runs on the horizontal or vertical surfaces. Just got a little debris micxed in but I kinda like the textured look.

Maybe you had it to hot in there so it ran a little more or maybe you tried to apply it too thich and thats what produced your runs. It was close ro 70 degrees in the shade when I did.

I didnt really need any help and it worked out pretty good.
 
lol.... I wasn't being defensive, I was actually joking around............... man its sensitive around here lately. And I also used a Angle Grinder with the most aggressive cup wire brush I could find......Acetone was to merely clean the surface after blowing off all the aluminum dust with the air compressor.
 
The people @ steelflex love this site. hahaha.

The lady on the phone was saying they get at least 4 or 5 new orders from people hearing about it "chatting on the net" as she put it.

Also, she made me say "eh?" for her a couple of times, she was having a hoot! :LOL2:

She talked me down (believe it or not) to order 2 quarts of the steelflex for going around the outside of my 12 foot Springbok Aluminum... do you guys think that's enough to do the entire outside?
 
I think that would be enough. Since your boat doesn't have a flat bottom, you have much less surface area to cover.
 
WhiteMoose said:
I think that would be enough. Since your boat doesn't have a flat bottom, you have much less surface area to cover.

Well if you look at my post that shows the boat, you can see why I want to do the entire outside. I'm going to do some actual measuring when I get home from work today before I send the check off. Just need to stop by somewhere and get a drain plug before I can take it anywhere hahaha.
 
TC1OZ said:
WhiteMoose said:
I think that would be enough. Since your boat doesn't have a flat bottom, you have much less surface area to cover.

Well if you look at my post that shows the boat, you can see why I want to do the entire outside. I'm going to do some actual measuring when I get home from work today before I send the check off. Just need to stop by somewhere and get a drain plug before I can take it anywhere hahaha.


I would get a gallon incase you waste some or need some touch up. Its worth the extra 25 bux trust me.
 
TC1OZ said:
The people @ steelflex love this site. hahaha.

The lady on the phone was saying they get at least 4 or 5 new orders from people hearing about it "chatting on the net" as she put it.

Also, she made me say "eh?" for her a couple of times, she was having a hoot! :LOL2:

She talked me down (believe it or not) to order 2 quarts of the steelflex for going around the outside of my 12 foot Springbok Aluminum... do you guys think that's enough to do the entire outside?

Which proves that there should be some partnership, like I said. We are giving that place serious business.
 
I just gave them some more business...
I spoke w/ Jerry who was happy to give me clear cut directions on how to apply the stuff to the boat.
He even said I could call with any questions.
I didn't believe C.O.D. still existed :LOL2:
Nice people!
 
Just ordered mine and sent the check $52.75 for 2 quarts and 4oz pigment.
 
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