On Board Charger Leads Too Short

[franner11]

I need to extend the length of both sets of cables from my on board battery charger to reach each battery.
I was wondering if I should simply splice the cables with 12 awg (or 10 awg?) before the inline fuse and extend, or if I should buy the $25 each set cables online.

Seems like a no brainer to me: splice is the way to go since I have the wire....right?

Any downsides to splicing vs. buying the cables? (aside from the obvious, if bad connections are made)?

I have this charger:
It's a 2-bank , 4 amps per bank, 12v setup.

https://www.basspro.com/Bass-Pro-Shops-XPS-Intelligent-Technology-Series-OnBoard-Marine-Battery-Charger-XPS-iT-4/4/product/10224683/101219

FYI, moving my charger closer to the batteries is not an option.

Thanks in advance!
Fran

 

[jojo]

I spliced myself using 12awg wire. Using the cable extenders wasn't an option for me because they wouldn't fit through the ribs on the side of the boat where I was running the wires through. It was much cheaper as well.

 

[franner11]

Thanks! Good to know I'm not crazy taking the cheaper way out.
Appreciate it!

 

[Bugpac]

all the wire splices i have seen are 14 awg. I would use the same wire as the charger, 14awg myself. Doing it yourself voids the warranty as well. I plan to do myself as well, the leads are ridiculously expensive IMO.

 

[franner11]

Agreed re expensive pre-made leads.
I'll check the gauge before I splice - I think it's actually a 12 awg or 14 awg. I have both, so I'm good either way. Thankfully I over-ordered marine wire!

 

[RivRunR]

I expect you're going to void your warranty by splicing. Might be worth the $25 to avoid that.

 

[franner11]

Actually it'd be $50 for two sets of extension leads. Considering the charger costs $110 alone, I think I'll go ahead and splice.

 

[RivRunR]

D@mn ! That IS pricey!

 

[Bugpac]

You really don't have to splice them, If you get some fuse holders, you could actually do it right at the fuse holder. then just add a second fuse right at the battery to protect in case of it getting cut. The Warranty, would never know you spliced them, the actual splice kits i have seen just have a little box that covers the terminal eyes, and you bolt them together there.

 

[user 7806]

You really don't have to splice them, If you get some fuse holders, you could actually do it right at the fuse holder. then just add a second fuse right at the battery to protect in case of it getting cut. The Warranty, would never know you spliced them, the actual splice kits i have seen just have a little box that covers the terminal eyes, and you bolt them together there.

You could do the samething bolt the eyes together then wrap the connection real good with splicing tape, I got mine at Lowes.

 

[franner11]

Y'all are crafty! THANKS!!!

 

[Bugpac]

You could get some of that really good heat shrink with the glue that shrinks about 10x its size as well. I think i am going to go the fuse route, and eliminate any bolted connection myself.

 

[franner11]

Yeah, I'm going the fuse holder route as well. Just seems safer.

 

[Bob Landry]

You are not going to void a warranty by splicing wires onto existing wires. Use the same size wire as the existing wire, use butt crimp connectors and heat shrink with the adhesive that oozes out when you heat it. Marine electrical equipment has been installed using these products for ages. All this anguish over a couple of pieces of wire.

 

[Bugpac]

You are not going to void a warranty by splicing wires onto existing wires. Use the same size wire as the existing wire, use butt crimp connectors and heat shrink with the adhesive that oozes out when you heat it. Marine electrical equipment has been installed using these products for ages. All this anguish over a couple of pieces of wire.

And you know this how? Have you did it and had to return an item?

Minkota for example.
"This limited warranty does not apply to chargers used commercially, nor does it cover normal wear and tear, blemishes that do not affect the operation of the charger, or damage caused by accidents, abuse, alteration, modification, misuse or improper care or maintenance. The cost of normal maintenance or replacement of parts which are not defective are the responsibility of the purchaser."

 

[Bob Landry]

I know this from having been in the marine business for 15 years and from having installed and returning my share of equipment to manufacturers. First, they would have to verify that splicing a length of wire to reach a power source would have been responsible for the equipment failure that you wanted repaired under warranty. Not Likely unless you went in and soldered wires to a circuit boar or something of that nature.
Think of it as replacing factory supplied tires on your truck with a different brand or size.

Secondly, the statement about alterations and modifications means just that, redesigning or going into the equipment and replacing compnents or going into it and doing an unauthorized repair.

 

[jojo]

I was just looking at the Minn Kota manual for my charger and from what I can see, it doesn't void the warranty.

 

[muskiemike12]

I just bought a Minnkota charger and it says right in the instructions that you can splice the cables to make longer leads. It says to splice between the in-line fuse and the split. Where the cable splits is the temperature regulator. You need to have a fuse (30 amp) within 7 inches of the battery. It also says not to have the leads longer than 20 feet.

 

[Bugpac]

Perfect, maybe a splice is not out of the question then.

 

[DaveInGA]

Correctly done splicing won't void the warranty because it will not damage the charger. The wording on electronics warranties is there to protect the manufacturer from "bonehead" splicing and other not so great idea kludge work. If done properly and the correct gauge wire used, the electronic device nor the manufacturer will see any difference.