Plastic 2x4 or 2x6 for bunks?

[gnappi]

I'm starting a minor refurbish on my 2010 mini trailer and while I have the bunk boards off I'm going to replace them. I'm wondering about using plastic 2x4's or 2x6's laid flat.

I know the plastic lumber has a tendency to warp but the span between the trailer cross pieces is only 2 1/2 feet, and my board length will only be 4 (5 at the most) feet so the short distance between cross pieces and minimal overhang on either end "should not" promote warping.

My questions are, has anyone here used plastic lumber?

With it being so slippery is carpeting needed? Or since it is so slippery does carpet add some friction that you really need?

If it did not need carpet, I would taper and round off the ends where the boat contacts the lumber.

 

[DaleH]

SE Florida? Any saltwater boating?

Regardless, I'd use PT wood covered by vinyl gutter covers, especially if in the salt. Probably much cheaper than plastic wood too!

 

[gnappi]

SE Florida? Any saltwater boating?

Regardless, I'd use PT wood covered by vinyl gutter covers, especially if in the salt. Probably much cheaper than plastic wood too!

Yeah, southeast Florida, no salt, done with that after living MANY years on the salt water east coast of Florida.

I'm not too much concerned about cost and for sure PT is available and less expensive but I can get a 12' outdoor rated plastic 2x6 for less than $50. My trailer is 7 years old and never been in salt and the "NEW" formula PT boards are shot. Now if I could get some of the old style with (chromated copper arsenate) arsenic in it, I'd go PT, but besides saying how "safe" the new PT (copper treated) is they NEVER say it's "better" than the old style.

 

[DaleH]

My trailer is 7 years old and never been in salt and the "NEW" formula PT boards are shot.

Wow, that's totally crap performance then, huh?

... if I could get some of the old style ... I'd go PT, but besides saying how "safe" the new PT (copper treated) is they NEVER say it's "better" than the old style.

You forgot to add: "Thank you EPA!"

 

[lckstckn2smknbrls]

Plain old 2x4 with the gutter treatment is very cost effective.

 

[user 21876]

I originally used cedar boards but I recently bought the composite deck boards for mine. I saw it on a buddy's trailer and he said that they were close to 5yrs old and they looked new. He flipped them over and countersunk the screws between the "ribs" and put them straight down on the cross members. It won't work for every trailer and it isn't cheap, but I don't think you will ever have to replace them.

The mud will destroy carpet or gutters in short order.

1244 Atchafalaya Outdoor Designs W/ 12hp Copperhead

 

[gnappi]

I originally used cedar boards but I recently bought the composite deck boards for mine. I saw it on a buddy's trailer and he said that they were close to 5yrs old and they looked new. He flipped them over and countersunk the screws between the "ribs" and put them straight down on the cross members. It won't work for every trailer and it isn't cheap, but I don't think you will ever have to replace them.

The mud will destroy carpet or gutters in short order.

1244 Atchafalaya Outdoor Designs W/ 12hp Copperhead

Wow! I never thought of using the 1x5 deck planks. Those would lower my boat even more on my too high trailer. Cheap is a relative term I think rotted boards and maintenance are more "expensive" in cost and labor in the long run.

 

[Johnny]

gnappi - is your axle above or below the springs ?

if the springs rest on top of the axle, depending on the size of your tires
and how far you travel, repositioning the springs to below the axle will
give you another couple of inches.
again - depending on the size of your tires and far you travel, road surface, etc.



.

 

[gnappi]

gnappi - is your axle above or below the springs ?

if the springs rest on top of the axle, depending on the size of your tires
and how far you travel, repositioning the springs to below the axle will
give you another couple of inches.
again - depending on the size of your tires and far you travel, road surface, etc.



.

In order to start addressing this, I ordered some 16" wheels / tires. Losing the bunk brackets and setting 2x4's sideways will help a lot too.

I "think" I know the reasons the makers use bigger wheels is to keep revs down on the bearings, but I don't travel more than a few miles and am not worried about bearing issues with smaller wheels. If I did travel with it, I could always put the 18" wheels back on.

Anyway, my axles are under the springs, I "thought" that putting the axle on top of the springs gave you less ground clearance and a lowered bunk set? I have to look at that again.

 

[onthewater102]

Great suggestion on re-positioning the axle relative to the leaf springs - I need to check my trailer & do that ASAP if it isn't that way already as I frequent some VERY shallow pitched launches.

Thanx Johnny!

 

[Johnny]

when you lay on the ground and look at the scientific approach
of the springs on or below the axle - you will see that the axle itslelf is not affected.
only the trailer "frame" (and boat) will be lowered about 4" or so. not the axle.
so your ground clearance will remain the same for the axle.
the only part that will be lowered is the 4" x 4" area of the U-Bolt clamps and nuts that
that are now below the axle. and if your clamps show wear and tear, now is a good time to replace them.


and if you feel that there is not enough clearance between the axle and frame and it could bottom out
on pot holes, rough road or crossings, you could install a rubber bumper for about $6 each.


A NOTE OF CAUTION:
the safest way to do this is to remove the boat from the trailer.



.

 

[gnappi]

Looking closely I see that they assembled the trailer with one "U" bolt on each side of the axle, pretty cheap. I ordered the plates with four U bolts for my square axles. I'll see how it goes. Be back as work progresses

I don't think it will bottom out, the boat is only some 80 pounds unloaded, even with gear it's not too heavy.