Replacement Battery Cables

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wmk0002

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I'm working on fixing up an old 1990 Yamaha 25 that I've posted a little about on the motors forum. I have determined that this thing will absolutely need new battery cables if I get the motor fixed up to that point that it's worth the time/money. In the meantime I figured I'd decide what I am going to get for when the time comes.

First off, I went to a parts site and found the OEM Yamaha cables and they are $100 - so that's a big no from me dawg lol. Now, I do like the factory cables... the ones on my new F25 are flexible, long, and duplexed into a single line that fits nicely through the factory grommet in the lower cowling. I really would like to find some cables that came duplexed like that and preferably were both black. I'm not entirely sure what gauge the oem cables are but the starter is marked with '434' on the side which I assume is watts. If that's correct then it would pull 30 something amps at 12V meaning for a total run of <20' that 8 awg would be ok. Any ideas on where to find the duplex cables like factory? If I cant find that and have to go with a pair of single cables, what would be a good option for a looming for two cables of that size?

And lastly, depending on how I use this motor, I may not even use the electric start. Any issues with adding a quick disconnect to the cables near where they exit the cowling? I thought it may be nice to use one of those flat Anderson connectors. Seems like it would help tidy a small boat up when not using them and help keep them in good shape.
 
I got a used factory battery cable off e-bay to convert a 30hp Merc. to electric start, might check there.
I also thought about going the jumper cable route if I couldn't match something up.
 
lckstckn2smknbrls said:
Try looking at jumper cables.

Good idea. Honestly, that never even crossed my mind.

overboard said:
I got a used factory battery cable off e-bay to convert a 30hp Merc. to electric start, might check there.
I also thought about going the jumper cable route if I couldn't match something up.

Thanks. I'll definitely check Ebay. I'm all for used ones, if the price is right of course.
 
I used a big connector for my starting cables. I got it from Walmart.

ATTACH]
 
wmk0002 said:
And lastly, depending on how I use this motor, I may not even use the electric start. Any issues with adding a quick disconnect to the cables near where they exit the cowling? I thought it may be nice to use one of those flat Anderson connectors. Seems like it would help tidy a small boat up when not using them and help keep them in good shape.

I use one of those Anderson connectors on my TM battery cables. I like them a lot. But, I'm not following why they would be useful on an OB starter cable. Would you remove the battery and/or cables when not in use?
 
LDUBS said:
wmk0002 said:
And lastly, depending on how I use this motor, I may not even use the electric start. Any issues with adding a quick disconnect to the cables near where they exit the cowling? I thought it may be nice to use one of those flat Anderson connectors. Seems like it would help tidy a small boat up when not using them and help keep them in good shape.

I use one of those Anderson connectors on my TM battery cables. I like them a lot. But, I'm not following why they would be useful on an OB starter cable. Would you remove the battery and/or cables when not in use?

Yeah, only reason being that this motor will be spending part time on a second boat I have. My main boat is a 1648 with an F25 Yamaha. I also have a beat up 1440 I use to test motors on that I have been working on as well as a backup boat for if I'm in the middle of a mod or work on the 1648. I don't have a starting battery in the 1440 and probably wont add one. I figured removable cables would help keep it neater, plus the terminals hanging free seems like a potential problem if my rectifier is working and is generating charging voltage while running. Kind of a weird move I know but seems like it may be a good route for me.
 
wmk0002 said:
LDUBS said:
wmk0002 said:
And lastly, depending on how I use this motor, I may not even use the electric start. Any issues with adding a quick disconnect to the cables near where they exit the cowling? I thought it may be nice to use one of those flat Anderson connectors. Seems like it would help tidy a small boat up when not using them and help keep them in good shape.

I use one of those Anderson connectors on my TM battery cables. I like them a lot. But, I'm not following why they would be useful on an OB starter cable. Would you remove the battery and/or cables when not in use?

Yeah, only reason being that this motor will be spending part time on a second boat I have. My main boat is a 1648 with an F25 Yamaha. I also have a beat up 1440 I use to test motors on that I have been working on as well as a backup boat for if I'm in the middle of a mod or work on the 1648. I don't have a starting battery in the 1440 and probably wont add one. I figured removable cables would help keep it neater, plus the terminals hanging free seems like a potential problem if my rectifier is working and is generating charging voltage while running. Kind of a weird move I know but seems like it may be a good route for me.


Makes perfect sense to me. I think those Anderson plugs would be perfect for what you want to do.
 
Those are awesome - I'd wanted something like that for my 12' to be able to disconnect the starter wire at the motor rather than the battery.
 
When I put a winch on my utility trailer I will be using those connectors to hook up the battery.
 
I bought a pair of 12' 8 awg Everstart jumper cables from Walmart. They fit snugly but pretty much perfect through the factory grommet in the lower cowling. I crimped on some 1/4 copper lugs and hooked it up to the starter ground and positive solenoid. I didn't add a quick disconnect yet nor did I put any lugs on the battery side yet (left the alligator clips on ... just temporary). I hooked up my remote starter to the solenoid, pulled the kill lanyard and turned it over and it worked great. Pretty happy about it - the jumper cables were basically $10 and the connectors with heat shrink were a few bucks off Amazon.

I wasn't able to route the cables very well without removing the carbs so that's why I have yet to add the disconnect. I just want it to come out a few inches and I'm not sure yet if I will need to feed any more wire in or pull any back out. After I get that straightened out I will add some wire loom to protect the cables from UV rays as I bet they don't hold up too well to that.
 
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