Selecting propellers

[Dmoney]

Hi everyone. I have a 14’ legend widebody with a Yamaha f25 fourstoke. The standard propeller is a 9 7/8 x 11 1/4 - F. I find the trolling speed too fast and this particular motor does not have the variable trolling speed switch to decrease idle rpm. I’m considering changing the propeller pitch and from Yamaha there are 2 options, either a 10 1/2 or a 9 inch pitch.any recommendations? Pros and cons?

Thanks!

 

[DaleH]

Well, simple really ... trolling too fast you need a lower pitched prop. Just be aware that @ WOT with a light load it could push you up against the rev limiter. And, it might not be best for good all-around performance or fuel efficiency.

You might check a factory OEM service manual and adjust the idle speed in forward down, as usually it is a range, like 700 to 750 for example. Another thing, very popular with walleye trolling (I believe) is back trolling in reverse, which will surely slow you down by putting the stern to the forward thrust. The prop thrust is also weaker in reverse, so that helps to.

One old trick was to just throw out a 5-gallon bucket on a rope behind the boat to add drag and slow you down ... A neat tip there is to affix a 2nd longer line to the bottom of the bucket and when you need to pull it in, grab the 2nd line and haul away, as that tips the bucket over and dumps the water out.

Just for knowledge, if you haven't already, put your rig though this Prop Calculator here: https://forum.tinboats.net/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=37433 . One great advantage - if you buy a new prop - is that if you buy a Turning Point prop, you can exchange it out for a nominal fee until you get the prop performance YOU like ... so you're not stuck with a collection of expen$ive props!

 

[eeshaw]

I have no experience with this but have read of some people using a "sock" that is attached to the boat. I guess they come in different sizes also.

 

[Dmoney]

Hi Dale, thanks for the tips! I’ll check out the prop calculator shortly. And that bucket trick is for sure a simple solution, I’ll have to try that!

Any idea how much difference 1 inch of pitch reduction makes?

I use my boat for 2 things. Fishing by myself, or camping with the family. So I’m either going slow or carrying a heavy load. I though a lower pitch would be advantageous in both situations.

 

[DaleH]

Any idea how much difference 1 inch of pitch reduction makes?

Typically each inch of prop pitch is worth about 200 RPM, but now that I think of it ... lowering the prop pitch will increase your RPMs, would hate to see it make you troll faster, LOL! So that's why I don't believe changing your prop is the ideal solution here.

You know, there are idle stops on OBs and I wonder if that motor could be idled down to troll even slower for you. But don't touch the motor idle speed needle valve :shock: !

What the other poster alluded to as an option is called a 'drift sock or drift anchor' and Academy sells a small one for only $13. Just rig the 2nd line to the back end, to bring them in easily. They too function to add drag, but are easier to stow than a bucket, although I find buckets to be of tremendous use around any boat.

Link = https://www.academy.com/shop/browse/search?searchTerm=drift%20anchor

FYI - Drift socks/anchors are also a safety item, as they can be deployed off the bow on a long rode to keep the bow of your boat facing into the wind and waves, say for example if you were out on a big lake and strong winds came up AND your motor died. I myself always have one aboard any saltwater offshore boat I ever run ...


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[Weldorthemagnificent]

A bucket works. So does an old backpack with a rope to each corner from the arm loops. I have a happy troller that works as well. Prop selection should give your boat the best performance at all speeds and not over rev the motor.

Sent from my CLT-L04 using Tapatalk

 

[Dmoney]

Thank you all for your suggestions. I think I’ll try a bucket on my next outing and see how that works before messing with prop pitch.

Also of note, this engine is a newer 2018 and is fuel injected, therefore the usual carb / throttle adjustment are not possible.

I guess a trolling plate would also work but I have no experience with them.

I live inland on lakes and rivers, close to Ottawa, ON, Canada.

 

[jethro]

I really hated using a trolling plate, it is terrible for boat control when it's windy. It did not last on my boat. Buckets work but they bang against the boat and are hard to store on board (you want them off the front cleats next to the bow, not dragging behind the boat for a lot of reasons). The best answer is a kicker or elec. motor, but the second best answer is a trolling sock. Trolling socks or drift socks actually greatly improve the way a boat handles rather than detracts from it as with a trolling plate. They attach to the front cleat, and have a dump strap that attaches to the rear cleat. When you want to get on the main and scoot you just grab the rear line, easily dump the bag and the ropes can stay attached with the bag twisted up and inside the boat. Get to your spot and throw the bags overboard and you are in business. No buckets banging on the hull when the waves come up, much easier to store on board, much easier to empty... slightly cheaper than a trolling plate and improves handling rather than detracts from it.

The best I found were from Amish Anglers. They sell sets in all sizes. https://amishoutfitters.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1

 

[LDUBS]

Hiya Dmoney. I had the same concerns. My boat has the variable trolling control you mention, but still won't get down below 2.2 mph. I considered the buckets, socks, and trolling plates. Ultimately, I decided to do nothing and just use lures that can be trolled faster. Now I typically goose the trolling control up to increase the speed. Downside is there are some great lures I can't really use with the faster troll.

Anyway, let us know what finally works out for you.