TRANSOM REPAIR ADVICE NEEDED!!!

[ocbinva]

I have a transom dilemma. As you can see in the pictures there is a reinforced transom cap rated for 65HP. However due to the shape and space I had to cut the old wood out since there is no room to tilt or twist it to get it out. And unlike a normal Jon boat where you can remove the top cap to get to it this one is welded on three sides. If you look closely the front section ledge on each side has a riveted bottom but even if I remove them and bend it upwards I do not think I can get a new transom in. The corrosion under the wood was bad and it is through the aluminum in three spots the largest a 1 inch hole (see in pic next to ledge drain hole). The PO used treated wood and steel bolts for additional reinforcement when the wood started to rot and it ended up making it worse.

So I need suggestions? Grind the weld off the top cap and put wood in? But how to I re-weld with wood in there? Make transom in three pieces and two layers laminating in place held with screws till glue cures?
Also the corroded holes; do I patch weld the holes or replace entire rear of boat? I am paying someone to do that part. I am average at welding steel but I do not want to practice aluminum on my boat.

Any suggestions and insight is appreciated.

 

[Captain Ahab]

Holy Crap! That is screwed up


I would cut the stern off and restart!

 

[riverrat174]

I hate to say it, but I would probably cut it out and put a new transom in too. Very difficult to get your lumber in there whole, and while you could weld patches in place of those holes, i would worry about more popping up. Corrosion looks nasty. Good luck, and keep after it. Keep us posted

 

[lckstckn2smknbrls]

Un-weld the splash well.

 

[ocbinva]

I think I have a plan based on everyone’s comments. The metal looks bad in pictures but other than a couple bad spots I think some good sanding and some etching primer will go a long ways to help preserve it. I hate to replace the whole things since I am sure it’s not cheap to have done. I plan to get the two bad spots patched at a minimum. I think I will undo the welds as recommended on the splash well to access the transom area. I saved the top 1/3 of the transom for thickness and angles since it was the only part not rotted. After everyone’s comments I did a closer inspection and I see mild burns on it at all the weld joints so that’s how the PO did it. I know to remove the welded steel joint takes allot of grinding but I have no experience with aluminum. Is it better to grind off the welds or use my dremel cutting wheel and cut above the weld? I could see how you can do allot of damage quickly. I am leaving on business soon but when I get back I will post new pictures of the progress. Once again thanks for any insight you have.

 

[Ranchero50]

I'd take the boat to who you are going to have weld it and see what they suggest. For me on a repair like that I would remove the vents and cleats, then use a circular saw with carbide teeth set at 1/8" deep and cut along the welds on the gunnels and just inside the outside bend on the angles. That way I have clean straight gunnels to weld to and only have to bridge the gap on the angles.

Again, find someone who will weld it back together before you take it apart.

Another option is to make your transom board out of 2 sheets of 3/4" plywood and stagger the joint as much as you can. Epoxy it during assy. Not as strong as a one piece but it's better than the rotten one you removed.

 

[ocbinva]

I am going on a business trip this weekend for a while but when I get back I am going to take it to a aluminum boat specialist in Gloucester Virginia. I believe he is the same guy who builds all the rigging for Jet Ski Brian and he built a hard top for my buddy. I like the idea of using a circular saw but I will check with the experts before I just start. Keep the ideas coming! Rick