How to Stop Boat Screws From Vibrating Out

TinBoats.net

Help Support TinBoats.net:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

shooterdave

New member
Joined
Jun 17, 2023
Messages
3
Reaction score
0
LOCATION
Tucson, AZ
I have a new to me 1986 Lund 18' Deep V. The screws vibrate out of the wood during trailering and boating. I've considered adding bees wax, using a drop of liquid nails or maybe using DAP caulk on the screws. I don't want to do anything permanent that would prevent removing the screws for a repair. What is the best way to fix this?
 
Last edited:
Ditto the above, but also add some type of polysulfidimid adhesive like BoatLife ’Life Caulk’.

However, is there any chance you could put ’riv-nuts’ where the screw holes are? Can you get access to those areas?

I’ve had about a half dozen Lunds in my life so far, 14’-18’, and never had a piece vibrate loose, so what pieces and where are you talking about? Pictures?

Personally … I never use a screw if I can through-bolt or use a riv-nut or some other type of fastener, like a ‘Toggler’ on the backside of the bearing material.

‘Togglers’ are a special/unique, strong and permanent SS toggle bolt, plus the piece secured is also completely removable, as the toggle bolt ‘nut’ part stays affixed in place. They are not cheap, but we you really need one, they are a fantastic option for where you can’t get to the backside of the bearing material or bulkhead.
 
Last edited:
Thanks for the replies. I bought the boat in humid Santa Cruz, CA and brought it to very dry Tucson, AZ so I think the wood dried out quite a bit. I also took her on a road trip to Baja CA last week and between poor paved roads and rough seas, she had her share of vibrations. Here are a few photos of loose or missing screws. I lost a screw from one of the seat bottoms. There are more loose screws in some of the compartment hinges, but my wife is out copying the key so I can't open them now.

I also lost about half the lag screws from my 2018 tracker trailer bunks, so we had to use fishing line and paracord to keep the bunks on for the trip home from Mexico. I plan to fix that with recessed bolts that go down through the bunks and use nylock nuts on the bottom instead of lag screws that go up from the bottom.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_8734.JPG
    IMG_8734.JPG
    274.6 KB · Views: 2
  • IMG_8735.JPG
    IMG_8735.JPG
    123.7 KB · Views: 3
  • IMG_8736.JPG
    IMG_8736.JPG
    141.2 KB · Views: 2
Oh wow … I think the toothpick or golf tee idea or, even better … bamboo chopsticks … as bamboo is pretty much impervious to water, with some type of adhesive, would work slick!
 
My Crestliner has the same issue. It‘s an aluminum boat with an old wooden deck and the screws in the deck work loose. Important fasteners like screws that fasten seat pedestals have stainless tee nuts epoxied to the back side of the deck. Other fixtures like rod holders are just screwed into the wood and they loosen up over time.

A method that I’ve used with good success but, yet to try it on the boat is the following:
- Apply thinned or penetrating epoxy into the holes and let it soak in to the wood a bit
- Coat the screw treads with a thin layer of vasoline
- Insert the screw into the hole before the epoxy hardens
- Let the epoxy dry before trying to remove the screw

It’s basically a poor boy threaded insert for wood. The screw is removable and the epoxy hardened threads holds up much better than the wood alone. You could do the same thing with a slow cure CA glue but, epoxy is probably a better choice for marine applications.
 
I like zip tie ends... aval in many sizes, conform to irregular holes well, easy to cut....keep a bunch in my drill bit box

if there is a water issue.. BOAT LIFE. awesome stuff and it lasts in the tube much longer than 3M 5200 and you can get a screw out of BOAT LIFE...
 
The easiest method to fix loosening screws in wood, metal or anyplace is to remove it and add a little dab of "GOOP"
Keeps the screw tite, yet unscrewes when needed. Been using this stuff for decades, works great, waterproof, can be painted over if needed, simple, cheap and it works !
 
I am still tightening up screws all over my old Mirrocraft after spending a fantastic year in Baja. Some I will need to use next larger size, others I will use the handy tips posted here. Thanks!
 
The easiest method to fix loosening screws in wood, metal or anyplace is to remove it and add a little dab of "GOOP"
Keeps the screw tite, yet unscrewes when needed. Been using this stuff for decades, works great, waterproof, can be painted over if needed, simple, cheap and it works !

Apparently the previous owner of my Crestliner likes Goop as well. He probably adds Goop to his ears so his glasses don’t fall off.
 
x2 on the goop. If you got goop and epoxy you can fix anything!!! LOL Your problem sure sounds odd to me. Seems obvious that what your driving your screws into is way too soft. Lots of solutions to stripped holes. I like packing the holes full of white glue and tooth picks nice and tight. Let it dry and then your screws should stay in.
 
Some of the screws holding my floor down to the alum framing back out from time to time. Every time I'm out I take a minute to snug down the ones that have worked loose. They tighten right up but it has been an ongoing thing. Thanks to @airshot , GOOP sounds like my solution.
 
Some of the screws holding my floor down to the alum framing back out from time to time. Every time I'm out I take a minute to snug down the ones that have worked loose. They tighten right up but it has been an ongoing thing. Thanks to @airshot , GOOP sounds like my solution.
Only use a small amount, it works great
 
For all who use Goop, you should try using E6000.
It is very similar to Goop, but it's a professional-grade adhesive and DOES NOT break down or turn brown in the sun. And it actually costs less than Goop. $3-something a tube. Here is a link:

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Eclectic-E6000-Industrial-Strength-Adhesive-Clear-2-fl-oz/17808713
It comes in white, clear and black for slick-looking installs. Walmart used to carry a good assortment, but lately, they only carry clear. I never use Goop anymore, at least not in boats.
 
..yep E6000...when ya need something like e6000, e6000 can't be beat...use it often..
 
Never tried it, but sounds like good stuff. I've just been using shoe goo on anything and everything for 20 years with pretty amazing results. Going to get some of that E6000 since so many recommend it here.
 
Never tried it, but sounds like good stuff. I've just been using shoe goo on anything and everything for 20 years with pretty amazing results. Going to get some of that E6000 since so many recommend it here.

I saw that at my local hardware store a couple days ago when I was picking up a tube of GOOP. The is my first experience with GOOP. It is some pretty gooey stuff.
 
For all who use Goop, you should try using E6000.
It is very similar to Goop, but it's a professional-grade adhesive and DOES NOT break down or turn brown in the sun. And it actually costs less than Goop. $3-something a tube. Here is a link:

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Eclectic-E6000-Industrial-Strength-Adhesive-Clear-2-fl-oz/17808713
It comes in white, clear and black for slick-looking installs. Walmart used to carry a good assortment, but lately, they only carry clear. I never use Goop anymore, at least not in boats.
In all my years of using goop, I never saw it turn brown, even below the waterline. 25 years back when they finnished building my home, the last piece of siding at the peak was held in place with " goop" ....according to the builder they had been using this stuff for years. Well, my piece is still glued in place, is still clear, and no sign of letting go. I have tried the e6000 but find it thinner and more runny, doesn't hang on to verticle surfaces well. Just my experience, I do prefer the goop, but just my preference
 
Top