Moving my transducer.....

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Mac

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I followed directions carefully mounting my transducer on my new boat, but in use, because it's mounted too low afterall, it produces a large roostertail when underway. In short, I have to move it up a fair piece to solve the problem. When I take it off to move it, I'll rough up the transom at the old screw holes, but then.......

My question is this: What to plug the old screw holes with? What material would hold up the best? I could use JB Weld, silicone, epoxy putty, and perhaps others, but need your advice. Thanks, and good fishing, Mac
 
My neighbor used epoxy then fiberglased over it. The boat is camo so when he repainted it isn't too noticeable. It's been on for two seasons with no leaks.
 
You can even use bolts and rubber sealed washers. There also is this other stuff ( I can't remember what its called though). You actually use it when using bolts through your transom. Its a whits gel kind of like toothpaste and when dries hardens like a rock. Thats what I used and have had no leaks. I think the stuff is from 3m. Number 570 boat epoxy or something like that.
 
I'm not sure if it is paintable, due to the silicone that it contains. I'm sure someone will pipe in soon with some other possible solutions to filling the oar lock hole. Having never used it before, and going by what the memebers on here state, JB Weld might be the solution as it's sandable & paintable.
 
Waterwings said:
I'm not sure if it is paintable, due to the silicone that it contains. I'm sure someone will pipe in soon with some other possible solutions to filling the oar lock hole. Having never used it before, and going by what the memebers on here state, JB Weld might be the solution as it's sandable & paintable.


It's not the hole that the oar goes into, but its the place where the oar holder comes through the hull on the side of the boat. I'll have to post a picture later at some point. It currently has some sort of silicon around it, but I think I may remove it, JB Weld it, sand it and prime and paint.
 
ober51 said:
Waterwings said:
I'm not sure if it is paintable, due to the silicone that it contains. I'm sure someone will pipe in soon with some other possible solutions to filling the oar lock hole. Having never used it before, and going by what the memebers on here state, JB Weld might be the solution as it's sandable & paintable.


It's not the hole that the oar goes into, but its the place where the oar holder comes through the hull on the side of the boat. I'll have to post a picture later at some point. It currently has some sort of silicon around it, but I think I may remove it, JB Weld it, sand it and prime and paint.
I know the hole your talking about but I would call your local marine shop and see if the 3m is paintable, if not take the other route.
 
I was browsing at Bass Pro in the boating section and found a bubble package of J-B STick Weld. It's a 1 x 4 inch round stick of a steel reinforced epoxy putty. You cut off what you need, and work the piece for one minute until it's a uniform color, then apply. Will even work on wet surfaces and will cure underwater if need be. Will make repairs on both fiberglass and aluminum and can be drilled, tapped, sanded and painted when cured. It's also non rusting, non shrinking, non toxic compound...ran around 5 dollars.
 
Seal up the 2 existing hole with the 5200 and install a transducer plate over them. That way if you have to move it again or change fishfinders, you won't have to drill more holes in the hull. The other thing I found out about using one of these plates is that it isolates the noise the transducer makes and I don't hear the clicking as loudly as when it is mounted directly to the hull.

34987.jpg


https://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10151_-1_10001_9153____SearchResults
 

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