My build from then 'til now - Motor swap completed!

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Perfect! Thanks bulldog, I also figured out how to zoom in to the pictures of your subframe and that helped. I could not originally tell that what was angle and what was tube, but with these pics and zooming in to the others I'm pretty sure I got it. Would you be nervous if I jumped up and down right on top of a hinge? Just wondering how strong you think those rivets are. The 1987 Alumacraft I am working on has broken rivets everywhere and will probably make me go a little overboard when rebuilding so as not to have to worry. Any reason you didn't have that hinged part of the hatch door on top of angle as well?
 
cathprod" Would you be nervous if I jumped up and down right on top of a hinge? Just wondering how strong you think those rivets are. Any reason you didn't have that hinged part of the hatch door on top of angle as well?[/quote said:
I am almost 6' tall and about 180 pounds and I am the runt of my family. I am fortunate enough to have a 6'3" 240 lb brother that works with me and is more than happy to try to break my stuff. If there was any part of the build that i questioned, I would just have him jump on it. Like I mentioned, he does not mind trying to break my stuff and I think he has actually enjoyed it for the last 28 years. The hinges hold up very well with very little flex. The piano hinges have holes for screws or rivets probably every 2" so they have plenty to keep them held together.

As far as the hinge placement, I did it this way for two reasons. 1)I did my last build like this and i thought that was the way they were supposed to go. and 2)I just thought it looks cleaner. I would imagine that either way you do it, it will be strong. I can tell you this, if you put the hinges on top of the angle, it will be easier to install. How I did it you have to attach the hinge to the compartment door and then basically guess where to drill the holes for the rivets on the frame.
Click to expand...
 
Sounds good. I look forward to popping my first rivet on my first deck job once I make it to that stage. If it turns out half as good as yours it will be ten times better than what I ripped out!
 
Bought a 46" tall, 6' long and 72" wide 3 pole bimini top today. It has 1" double wall aluminum tubing, UV and other anti mold treatments to the gray canvas and a 7 year warranty. Did I mention the 7 year warranty? $129.00 shipped. I've been looking for one for a long time and this is a great deal. Can't wait 2-6 days for it to arrive!!
 
Nosey? Is there such a thing on this site!? :D I found it on Ebay. Called and talked to the store and they sent me a sample of the canvas as I think that that is the most important part. The build of it is all stainless bolts, nylon fittings, and aluminum 1" support rods which is very important. Very good product. I'll let you know how everything looks and goes together when it comes in.

This is the exact one I bought:

https://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=380315054554&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT
 
bulldog said:
Nosey? Is there such a thing on this site!? :D I found it on Ebay. Called and talked to the store and they sent me a sample of the canvas as I think that that is the most important part. The build of it is all stainless bolts, nylon fittings, and aluminum 1" support rods which is very important. Very good product. I'll let you know how everything looks and goes together when it comes in.

This is the exact one I bought:

https://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=380315054554&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT
Click to expand...

Great post bulldog. I'm really looking forward to catching up with you very soon, and in person.
 
It is. You have to use a little more supports as you would if you used 1/8 but ti works just fine for me. It also depends on how thick your decking is going to be.
 
Thanks! I'm a big dude and want it to be sturdy. After I get the money and my plan set in stone, I'll have to post it up and get opinions here as to which route I should go.
 
I got my bimini top earlier this week and opened it up today. It seems like a very good buy. It is about 60% pre-assembled and looks like it is built well. I'm excited to get it on and ready to go. Pics to come later.

I also got the 1/4" plate that I am going to use for the trolling motor mount. That was an expensive piece of aluminum. $37 for an 18"x24" piece. I have to have it though. I made the template tonight and should get everything cut and bent tomorrow so I can get it all put together before Saturday morning when I go fishing for the first time with the new deck. I'll take pics as I go.

On the down side, I found a crack in my boat where the transom meets the boat. The guy that did the transom said it would crack exactly where it did. I'm wondering how much that is going to cost to fix. Atleast $100 I would think.
 
Bulldog, when I needed an 8-9in weld to repair the rear corner of mine I took it to Contractors Welding,they put a nice tig on it for $35. Everyone I talked to recommended them. I dropped it off around 10am,and they had it ready in about an hour or so.The only problem is that you have to take it to them.But it is a nice weld. They are on Thornton Ave in Rock Hill,near the police station,off of Elm.
 
Thanks S&M. The crack is about 1.25" but it is in a bad spot so I want to get it fixed sooner than later. I'll give them a call.
 

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