Switch Panel Needed

[wmk0002]

I actually do have one follow up question... Most panels come illuminated in blue or green. How bright are those at night and would an amber or red be easier on the eyes? I just wasn't sure if the common blue/green are obnoxiously bright, which I don't want.

What are you mounting it to? An existing console, bench seat, or are you fabricating something?

This will go in my jon boat in my sig. I'm probably going to mount the junction box to a piece of aluminum spanning between the ribs that go up the sides. No matter where I decide to put it, it will be below the bow so it shouldn't be visible to other boats but I will check our regulations first.

I also figured if the lights were ever too bright I could get frost the plastic somehow to dim them up some.

 

[gnappi]

I actually do have one follow up question... Most panels come illuminated in blue or green. How bright are those at night and would an amber or red be easier on the eyes? I just wasn't sure if the common blue/green are obnoxiously bright, which I don't want.

What are you mounting it to? An existing console, bench seat, or are you fabricating something?

This will go in my jon boat in my sig. I'm probably going to mount the junction box to a piece of aluminum spanning between the ribs that go up the sides. No matter where I decide to put it, it will be below the bow so it shouldn't be visible to other boats but I will check our regulations first.

I also figured if the lights were ever too bright I could get frost the plastic somehow to dim them up some.

Actually, scuffing up the diffusers on the plastic is a pretty good idea. Maybe scotch brite or a dremel sanding wheel of some sort?

The back of the panels are deeper than it seems due to the DMM, USB and cig appliance adapters length protruding behind whatever you mount it to. You'll need at least 2 1/4" free space between the gunnel wall and the face of the ribs.

Whatever you need to do you will discover after you get it home to look at it. Good luck send pix when you get it done.

 

[gnappi]

I had some time on my hands and took some pix of the particular LED DMM that those MIC panels have and there's more than one issue to deal with in the pix. One is the sensitivity to the three colors of the CCD image sensor in the three cameras I used (One each LG stylo3, LG Premier pro and a still shot from my GoPro) another is the relative brightness of the LED's, and the third can only be addressed by the user, night vision / blindness effect.

In the pix, neither the green or blue are as bad as they seem because of the large halo in the pix that do not exist with the naked eye, but one thing is for sure, the red is much dimmer than either the green or blue. In this sample, my preference despite the science of night vision experts on visual acuity under man made light I would definitely NOT pick green. In this brand / model gauge, for sure RED will likely be the best choice.

The first pic is from my LG Stylo, the second is a screen cap from my GoPro. The pic from the LG Premier was terrible.

 

[wmk0002]

Thanks! That is very helpful.

Right now I'm trying to find a switch panel with push button reset-able breakers. There are quite a few available that are very much like the ones you showed earlier; the only issue is that the common theme on a 6 gang switch is to come with 2 5A breakers, 2 10A, and 2 15A. I'd like to stick with 3A and 5A ones. I was going to contact some Ebay sellers to see if they can do a swap. Otherwise I see Blue Seas Systems has some that I could possibly buy separately and replace with.

 

[LDUBS]

WMK -- do you have any concerns that the circuit breakers might not be as reliable as fuses? Just seems to me that there isn't much that can go wrong with a simple fuse. Not being critical -- just curious.

 

[wmk0002]

WMK -- do you have any concerns that the circuit breakers might not be as reliable as fuses? Just seems to me that there isn't much that can go wrong with a simple fuse. Not being critical -- just curious.

I really don't, especially if I go with the Blue Seas ones. But the main appeal for breakers is space savings. I could do inline fuses within the panel box no problem but would have to remove the cover on the water to replace. Ideally I would go with a separate fuse box but the way my boat is laid out it will be tough to find a spot to put one that will be out of the way. I'm still very much undecided though.

 

[LDUBS]

WMK -- do you have any concerns that the circuit breakers might not be as reliable as fuses? Just seems to me that there isn't much that can go wrong with a simple fuse. Not being critical -- just curious.

I really don't, especially if I go with the Blue Seas ones. But the main appeal for breakers is space savings. I could do inline fuses within the panel box no problem but would have to remove the cover on the water to replace. Ideally I would go with a separate fuse box but the way my boat is laid out it will be tough to find a spot to put one that will be out of the way. I'm still very much undecided though.

Thanks. Right now I have a few in-line fuses behind the dash. Hard for me to access when the boat is on the trailer much less rocking around on the water. I want to make them more accessible.

 

[wmk0002]

WMK -- do you have any concerns that the circuit breakers might not be as reliable as fuses? Just seems to me that there isn't much that can go wrong with a simple fuse. Not being critical -- just curious.

I really don't, especially if I go with the Blue Seas ones. But the main appeal for breakers is space savings. I could do inline fuses within the panel box no problem but would have to remove the cover on the water to replace. Ideally I would go with a separate fuse box but the way my boat is laid out it will be tough to find a spot to put one that will be out of the way. I'm still very much undecided though.

Thanks. Right now I have a few in-line fuses behind the dash. Hard for me to access when the boat is on the trailer much less rocking around on the water. I want to make them more accessible.

Here is a link to the Blue Seas ones I was talking about in case you are interested.

https://www.bluesea.com/products/category/14/26/Circuit_Breakers/Push_Button_Reset-Only

 

[gnappi]

If breakers are tripped a lot, they may become more likely to trip but as far as overall reliably tripping when needed I expect them to be as reliable as fuses. To me accessibility is the major reason to deploy them.

Here's the item number of a 5A panel breaker on Ebay 191814486004

There are also panel mount fuse holders (312204863930), but what if any internal corrosion resistance is uncertain.

One morning coming in from offshore on a strong outgoing tide my boat went D-E-A-D in the water in an inlet at 02:00 am. on a fast outgoing tide. I was in danger of being swept out to sea. I used my anchor to hold fast until the tide stopped flowing, and hand cast the anchor several times to pull up to a seawall, and tie off.

I took a cab home (wife was away on a business trip) got my tools (I never leave home without tools any more) and found that they (Sea Ray) used an inline fuse holder for the main line to the switch panel from the battery. The high carbon spring inside the fuse holder rotted away and the fuse was dangling in its socket not making a connection.

I'll never use a fuse holder in a boat again

There's no guarantee that a breaker will fare any better, but with all the components being sold as "marine" parts I have a tad more confidence in them over spring loaded fuse holders unless the fuse holders had stainless springs and gold plated contacts.

 

[DaleH]

In this sample, my preference despite the science of night vision experts on visual acuity under man made light I would definitely NOT pick green.

That's my direct/observed experience too! My new-to-me boat (non-tin, so I haven't shown it here) came equipped with green LEDS all over the place, even on underwater lights, and not only do I find them to be "too bright", there is a glow or halo around them that disturbed by vision to the area around the lamp/light.

Right now I'm trying to find a switch panel with push button reset-able breakers.

Here's some food for thought ... since rewiring many a boat; 5 or more of mine, a few of my brothers and a couple for some good friends ... in all that time - spanning 20-years - we have yet to have a fuse blow on any circuit where I re-wired it myself.

So whilst I know I'm a cheap 'Yankee' bazztard ... I just go with combo +/- fuse block assemblies placed into simple Tupperware-type closed containers, to make a DIY NMEA waterproof box. Keeps the switch panel simple (fuse panel behind the helm, protected) ... and makes the entire re-wire project much cheaper.

And the best part to me - that most of you overlook - is that you can purchase a fuse properly sized to the device or ampacity limit desired, whereas circuit breakers are not available at every value. In fact most stock OEM panels people are posting here are populated with 15 or 20-amp circuit breakers. And fuses are cheaper than breakers, even when I use the plastic ATC-type fuses, as I abandoned glass tubes years ago.

 

[wmk0002]

OK, I spent a lot of time thinking last night and calculating the costs of both building a panel like I want with quality switches and breakers and buying a nice one factory one. My conclusion is that if I choose to build one myself I will likely spend $150+ and if I buy one with every feature I wanted I will prob come out around $200. Those are both more than I want to spend (at least all at once) and I think I am going to pass on the Amazon/Ebay ones as well.

What it boils down to is that 6 switches should be enough for my basic boat. Circuit protection is crucial but really I plan to do a good job of fishing wire and making solid crimp/heat shrink connections so easily accessible blade style fuses will be fine over push breakers. Given that, I believe the 6 gang, fused, WeatherDeck switch panel Blue Seas sells will be good for me. It has red illuminated labels when the panel has power to it and shows green when the switch is on. If a fuse is blown, that switch label will not light up at all. The panels face is removable to access the fuses without having to unscrew the panels face. Looks like I can find one online for about $90 too. That will allow me to separately purchase a 12V outlet, USB outlet, and volt meter and install them plus the panel in the face of an appropriately sized electrical junction/project box.

https://www.bluesea.com/products/4306/WeatherDeck_12V_DC_Waterproof_Fuse_Panel_-_Gray_6_Positions

 

[wmk0002]

In this sample, my preference despite the science of night vision experts on visual acuity under man made light I would definitely NOT pick green.

That's my direct/observed experience too! My new-to-me boat (non-tin, so I haven't shown it here) came equipped with green LEDS all over the place, even on underwater lights, and not only do I find them to be "too bright", there is a glow or halo around them that disturbed by vision to the area around the lamp/light.

Right now I'm trying to find a switch panel with push button reset-able breakers.

Here's some food for thought ... since rewiring many a boat; 5 or more of mine, a few of my brothers and a couple for some good friends ... in all that time - spanning 20-years - we have yet to have a fuse blow on any circuit where I re-wired it myself.

So whilst I know I'm a cheap 'Yankee' bazztard ... I just go with combo +/- fuse block assemblies placed into simple Tupperware-type closed containers, to make a DIY NMEA waterproof box. Keeps the switch panel simple (fuse panel behind the helm, protected) ... and makes the entire re-wire project much cheaper.

And the best part to me - that most of you overlook - is that you can purchase a fuse properly sized to the device or ampacity limit desired, whereas circuit breakers are not available at every value. In fact most stock OEM panels people are posting here are populated with 15 or 20-amp circuit breakers. And fuses are cheaper than breakers, even when I use the plastic ATC-type fuses, as I abandoned glass tubes years ago.

Thanks Dale. Didn't see your reply until I submitted mine. I went along with your thoughts on the breakers. While nice to have, hard to justify the cost especially when they should really never be needed if done correctly.

 

[ProduceMan]

Go with the Blue Seas panel. I am using the 4 gang on a 8 x 8 junction box from H.D. with room to spare for usb, lighter plug,etc. Also check out their positive & negative combo buss bar, fits well inside the junction box.

 

[wmk0002]

Go with the Blue Seas panel. I am using the 4 gang on a 8 x 8 junction box from H.D. with room to spare for usb, lighter plug,etc. Also check out their positive & negative combo buss bar, fits well inside the junction box.

Thanks, I ordered their 6 gang switch. Is the junction box you used 4" deep? Is that deeper than necessary or about right?

 

[wmk0002]

I bought a roll of 1/2", non-metallic, flexible, pvc conduit from Lowe's as well. It fits tightly down the crimp in the sides (behind the ribs). I plan to run it from the junction box just forward or the rear deck through the crimp and all the way under the front deck. I think I will cut out an access hole/square just big enough to get my hand in on top of the front deck. Not sure yet how/where I will route the primary power/ ground and primary wires for the bilge and anchor light back to the battery though. I'll update progress here later this week as well as in my build thread in my sig. Thanks for all of the help!

 

[wmk0002]

Switch panel came in. I'm very pleased with the "feel" of it. It is heavier than I expected and is solidly built. I bought an 8x8x4" outdoor junction box from Home Depot. Along with the box I got two "liquid tight" brand 1/2" 90 degree elbows which will attach that flexible conduit to the box with a water tight seal. I ordered a mini Blue Sea dual bus bar to mount inside the box which will distribute my primary positive and negative wires to the switch panel and the future 12V and usb outlets. Finally, I got a single, negative Blue Sea bus bar to mount at the bow so I can wire all bow electronics' negatives to it and only have one 10awg negative wire running back to the switch panel.

The only thing I am missing that I would like to have now is a switch on my primary positive feed wire where it enters the junction box. Parasitic draw is in the mA range but I would prefer to switch it off if I want. I'm having trouble finding a simple toggle or contura switch rated for more than 15A though. If anyone knows of one rated for closer to 50A, please let me know.

 

[DaleH]

50 Amp shown, ~$16, but you can use these Blue Sea breakers like a switch. Must be protected in a box though ... so why not just but a waterproof mini battery on/off switch? But $35.

 

[wmk0002]

Dale, what size is that mini battery switch?

 

[DaleH]

Dale, what size is that mini battery switch?

About 3” square I’d say ...