I just purchased an 1860 SeaArk and would like to add led interior lights. The boat came with a switch panel with an open slot for an additional switch/breaker. I'm no where near an electrician and I'm curious if someone could explain how to wire the other switch along with the others. The blue and green wires are extras that run the length of the boat and are ready to be wired into my leds . Thanks in advance
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Wiring interior lights (picture included)
- Thread starter Workman1
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gnappi
Well-known member
I may get flamed for my reply, but I really do not think you should get into wiring anything until you are at the minimum comfortable with a multimeter, and some DC switching / connecting concepts.
My best suggestion(s) would be to:
1. Get a multimeter and learn how to use it at least for DC.
2. Once you finish #1 use it to figure out which wires you see are ground and 12v.
Then, find a SPST (or DPST) switch that kinda / sorta matches your current switches.
Wiring it is easy from there.
My best suggestion(s) would be to:
1. Get a multimeter and learn how to use it at least for DC.
2. Once you finish #1 use it to figure out which wires you see are ground and 12v.
Then, find a SPST (or DPST) switch that kinda / sorta matches your current switches.
Wiring it is easy from there.
gnappi
Well-known member
I was on my phone for the last reply, now I'm on a full sized PC and it's easier to type.
Historically and "generally" correctly, black and or green are ground. Red is 12 volts. Other colors (grey, blue, white, orange, etc.) could be anything the "designer" opted to use for control and "I" personally never try to guess what's in a wire by the color. That's the reason for knowing what a multimeter does and how it works.
Without a front view of the switch panel your pic leaves more questions than answers. They "appear" to be SPST with a wire for an internal light, but without seeing the front, they "might" be SPDT or two circuit switches with a center off?
Also you should ignore the grey and green until / unless you know what / where they come from, what is inside them, and where they go. Everything you "should need" is already in that switch panel connected to the existing switches, just tap a 12v line off one switch to the "in" lug of the new switch, send the "out" lug to the LED's along with what "should be" a black ground wire you can tap from inside the switch box. Fusing should already be there from the previous switch you tap power from. LED's are "generally" such low power that increasing fuse size should not be needed. Now the other issue is "IF" there is existing fuses. Even low power circuits can and do get wires pinched or shorted. If your switch box is not fused (they could be internally) it's a good idea to all individual inline fuses to every circuit.
This link describes switches and what / how they are applied:
Oh, and welcome to the forum.
https://www.littelfuse.com/technical-resources/technical-centers/commercial-vehicle-technical-center/poles-and-throws.aspx
Historically and "generally" correctly, black and or green are ground. Red is 12 volts. Other colors (grey, blue, white, orange, etc.) could be anything the "designer" opted to use for control and "I" personally never try to guess what's in a wire by the color. That's the reason for knowing what a multimeter does and how it works.
Without a front view of the switch panel your pic leaves more questions than answers. They "appear" to be SPST with a wire for an internal light, but without seeing the front, they "might" be SPDT or two circuit switches with a center off?
Also you should ignore the grey and green until / unless you know what / where they come from, what is inside them, and where they go. Everything you "should need" is already in that switch panel connected to the existing switches, just tap a 12v line off one switch to the "in" lug of the new switch, send the "out" lug to the LED's along with what "should be" a black ground wire you can tap from inside the switch box. Fusing should already be there from the previous switch you tap power from. LED's are "generally" such low power that increasing fuse size should not be needed. Now the other issue is "IF" there is existing fuses. Even low power circuits can and do get wires pinched or shorted. If your switch box is not fused (they could be internally) it's a good idea to all individual inline fuses to every circuit.
This link describes switches and what / how they are applied:
Oh, and welcome to the forum.
https://www.littelfuse.com/technical-resources/technical-centers/commercial-vehicle-technical-center/poles-and-throws.aspx
chuck99z28
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I have to agree with Gary. You aren't providing enough info or close enough pictures.
Maybe find someone local to help you in person.
Maybe find someone local to help you in person.
mbweimar
Well-known member
Gnappi, where are you located again? I'm in Martin County. I'd be happy to look at it for you, and give you some electrical education.
gnappi
Well-known member
mbweimar said:
?? Do you mean the OP, Workman1?
