Derek
Well-known member
only benefit to a tiller is you will have more room. the console wont be taking up space.
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flatbotm's 1542 build
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Thanks Derek. The 1542 consoles don't look like they take up too much space. Looks like it's time to order up a console so I can keep my project moving. I guess the only other advantage a tiller has is you can change it out for another one in 30 seconds.
Zum
Well-known member
You can turn alot quicker with a tiller as well,especially in alittle jon boat.
Feels good in your hands to.
Personal preference.
Feels good in your hands to.
Personal preference.
Thanks Zum. I will set the boat up with a seat to run the tiller just to see what your talking about. I ran a small boat with a tiller when I was young but it's been a long time. It's going to cost around $500 to change it to a console so if the tiller is a better set up then that's $500 for other stuff.
Zum
Well-known member
It's a personal preference.
I don't have any long runs,1/2 hour tops,less to worry about going wrong and I do like the feel of it.
If I changed to a console it would be an forward center console...that way I could max out the hp with a 60
I don't have any long runs,1/2 hour tops,less to worry about going wrong and I do like the feel of it.
If I changed to a console it would be an forward center console...that way I could max out the hp with a 60
Thanks zum. I am probably going to do the console steer still. I talked to a buddy yesterday and he said after all day on the water he gets a little sore from being turned from the tilling position. I am thinking of maybe setting it up kinda like Reeds so my wife can ride next to me when traveling across the lake. I'm going to make it so the seats pull out and move to the front and rear for trolling/fishing.
I have another question for the experts around here. What are your thoughts of a additional kicker motor on a 15' jon? The reason I ask is some lakes here have a 10 hp limit. Some are just no wake but others have this limit. If I set my boat up with the console it will be difficult quickly change out my 25 hp rude for a smaller motor. If I set the boat up to have a smaller kicker then I could take the kicker off and put it on as needed. I mocked it up on the back of the boat and I would definitely need to fab up a bracket to get the motor far enough away from the 25 rude. I think it would be used for trolling as well so I don't have to idle my bigger motor for long periods. The little 4.5 merc weighs about 50 lbs and I wouldn't need additional fuel cause I all 2 stroke. Any help is appreciated. Here is a pic of the little guy.
Zum
Well-known member
Another benefit to a tiller...joking
I know they make kicker brackets that can handle that size outboards(bigger as well).
I think bassboy has one (homemade)on his jon boat,maybe popeye as well.
I'll see if I can find the link for you.
...jokingI know they make kicker brackets that can handle that size outboards(bigger as well).
I think bassboy has one (homemade)on his jon boat,maybe popeye as well.
I'll see if I can find the link for you.
Thanks Zum that helped. I ended up picking up some parts off of cl today. I got the kicker mount made by michigan wheel new for $40 and a OMC shifter throttle control for $50. The shifter throttle would have been a great deal except I missed a detail with a cable being messed up. Oh well they are available online for reasonable $$ first time Ive been ripped off on cl so not too bad for all the dealings Ive had. I also got a new boat cover from china today. China freight tools boat cover looks to be nice for $62 shipped to my door.
reedjj
Well-known member
When I am at idle or sitting still and have 2 people sitting in my boat, a full tank of gas, my boat sits pretty low in the back. About half of the 15"transom is above the waterline. Thats only about 6-7 inches! a small wake from a boat or even a jet ski wake at the right angle can come over no problem, and has more than once to me. That is the reason I removed the 30 lbs of wood I had on the back for the rear decking and went with just the piece of ply to cover the tank area.
If you slap another 4.5hp on there plus a mount you might sit a little lower than you would like. Of course if you are only going to have it on there on hp restricted lakes you might not have to worry about it.
Just a suggestion.
If you slap another 4.5hp on there plus a mount you might sit a little lower than you would like. Of course if you are only going to have it on there on hp restricted lakes you might not have to worry about it.
Just a suggestion.
I will wait until I finish all my mods and have the boat on the water before I add the kicker. My fuel is up front but I still have weight to add in the rear with some more wood, console, ect. ect.. The wood I have for the rest of the boat is lighter than the beastly stuff I used on the front. I may also replace my front hatch doors with aluminum to shave some lbs.. My 25 hp rude is pretty light but I probably don't need the extra 50 of the little merc hanging off the back. Its ok if the boat doesn't run 30mph but I would like to see at least 25. I wish I had spent the $$ to go all aluminum then weight would not be an issue or I just could have got a bigger boat. :lol:
reedjj
Well-known member
You will be fine, It will do 25 easy! If you want to go aluminum later you can always do it over the winter. One thing I have learned is that these projects are never really done.
timebak
Active member
Whoa! Whoa! Whoa! Wait just a minute here!! I got in on this thread a little late. flatbotm, you do NOT need that ugly old galvanized trailer. I've got a really nice one that I drug up outta the weeds behind my house that would look LOTS better with your boat. I'll trade ya straight up. Just needs a little sandblasting or wire brushing and a couple coats of paint, some new wheels, and I've got a pair of new tires for it that I'll throw in the deal, and it'll be better than new.
Uhhhh, well,... there is just a TINY little problem with the wood being rotted off the bunks, but I know from your post that you can handle that job just fine. Oh, uh, I forgot about the lights and wiring being rotted off of it.... BUT that's an easy fix for a man of your obvious talents... Tell ya what, I'll give ya twenty bucks boot on the trade! How's that sound??
Uhhhh, well,... there is just a TINY little problem with the wood being rotted off the bunks, but I know from your post that you can handle that job just fine. Oh, uh, I forgot about the lights and wiring being rotted off of it.... BUT that's an easy fix for a man of your obvious talents... Tell ya what, I'll give ya twenty bucks boot on the trade! How's that sound??
You were a day too late I allready traded the trailer for a rooftop boat carrier and a 6 pack of old Milwaukee. :---) no I was pretty happy to get a galvanized trailer in the deal. It needs the bunks adjusted. It had no jack so I picked one up at the local farm supply I need to weld on and I may make some guides to help with loading. The guy I bought the boat from even met me the next week and brought me two brand new spares for the trailer(still had the stickers on them).
timebak
Active member
Dang!! The story of my life: A day late and a dollar short..... Sounds like you got a good deal. Be careful welding on that galvanized: the fumes will make you sick. And getting those spares was sure nice! That's another hundred bucks you saved right there!
Oh, and the guide-on are a great idea. I've got some short ones on my trailer and really like em. But I'm getting ready to put on some taller PVC pipes on the end for even better guiding and so I can see the trailer better when backing.
Oh, and the guide-on are a great idea. I've got some short ones on my trailer and really like em. But I'm getting ready to put on some taller PVC pipes on the end for even better guiding and so I can see the trailer better when backing.
There is a bunk in the front of the main side bunks that goes horizontal and isn't even touching the boat so I guess I should extend it up so the front of the boat is supported better. What are the guides usually made from? I was going to weld on some short pipes and extend them up with PVC that had the same ID as the OD of the pipe. Is that the normal method?
I will probably still put the kicker mount on the back of the boat for the hp limited lakes. Because on those lakes I won't have to worry about water coming over the back because they are generally no wake anyway.
I have another question for you guys. Has anyone on here ever done a permanent overhead tube to have a Bimini type top off of? It would look kind of like a roll bar on a boat. I would obviously bend it up out of light weight aluminum tube. I don't know if it would be more of a pain than a Bimini but I could definitely do it for cheaper. Any thoughts?
I will probably still put the kicker mount on the back of the boat for the hp limited lakes. Because on those lakes I won't have to worry about water coming over the back because they are generally no wake anyway.
I have another question for you guys. Has anyone on here ever done a permanent overhead tube to have a Bimini type top off of? It would look kind of like a roll bar on a boat. I would obviously bend it up out of light weight aluminum tube. I don't know if it would be more of a pain than a Bimini but I could definitely do it for cheaper. Any thoughts?
Can anyone tell me why there are so many switches (switch box) and electrical work?
I have a 14ft Weldcraft with a 25 hp Mercury and a cheap hand-steered trolling motor on the back.
I simply have a marine battery with the trolling motor alligator clips on it.
My lights are the cheap D-cell battery powered kind.
Thanks much,
Brandon
I have a 14ft Weldcraft with a 25 hp Mercury and a cheap hand-steered trolling motor on the back.
I simply have a marine battery with the trolling motor alligator clips on it.
My lights are the cheap D-cell battery powered kind.
Thanks much,
Brandon
Brandon,
Thats one of the great things about tinboats you can have it your way! You can make your boat as simple or as complicated as you want. I pulled out the previous owners wiring and switches but I will be putting quite a few back in. When my boat is done i will have switches for lights, radio, spotlight,fish finder, bilge pump, and live well to name most. My trolling motor will not have any switches because it will have its own battery. The other battery will start my 25 hp outboard and do everything else. If you didn't want any switches you could power everything with d batteries and use a hand held spotlight.
Thats one of the great things about tinboats you can have it your way! You can make your boat as simple or as complicated as you want. I pulled out the previous owners wiring and switches but I will be putting quite a few back in. When my boat is done i will have switches for lights, radio, spotlight,fish finder, bilge pump, and live well to name most. My trolling motor will not have any switches because it will have its own battery. The other battery will start my 25 hp outboard and do everything else. If you didn't want any switches you could power everything with d batteries and use a hand held spotlight.
I put the harbor freight Large Boat Cover for the $$ spent. Like I said before $62 shipped. It is really big for my boat but that is what I wanted. Once my boat has a console and all the pedestal seats in place it will fill the cover out better. Right now it looks like a large bed spread on a army cot. It will cover the outboard. The material is much heavier than my $50 walmart one which ripped in the wind.
